Restricted Access
July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock) in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area.
The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.
BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.
Rockfax Description
A long and arduous girdle across the North Wall. ED2 ABO, might be a better grade for this expedition. Start by abseiling to the Quarryman ledge, or climbing up Opening Gambit.
1) 4c, 25m. As for Opening Gambit pitch 2.
2) 5c,18m. As for Opening Gambit pitch 3, to the 'possible' belay on the arete, requiring big cams, slings, hooks and hope.
3) 5b, 25m. Traverse right to the end of the ledge and drop down 1m onto a continuation ledge. This ends in a ledge with a shot-hole, folded nut/tricam. Continue to traverse right with hands on a rail of flakes that takes skyhooks. Finally reach a vertical crack and some gear. Drop down and continue traversing to a hanging flake. Ascend this to belay in the groove of Hamadryad.
4) 5b, 40m. A poorly-protected pitch. Follow Hamadryad until level with the 'Bastard Bush of Twll Mawr'. Traverse below this to gain a big ledge on the right arete of the Hamadryad groove. Climb up a series of sloping ledges, slightly right of the arete, until level with a gorse infested ledge in a corner on the right. This is your belay - bring secateurs.
5) 5a, 40m. Climb the groove behind the belay until it is possible to step up right onto a sloping ledge. Slither right to a big flat hold and continue until a jug allows upward movement - more slopey slithering rightward below a perched block and around a rib into the groove beyond. Move up onto the ledges on the right, gain the dolerite arete and mantle to the belay of The True Finish.
6) 4a, 20m. Walk along and down to The Razor's Edge belay.
7) 6a, 30m. Now it gets serious. Check the time and seepage, as the next two pitches are inescapable. Down climb The Razor's Edge a few metres to the first significant sloping ledge. To your right is a series of sloping holds terminating in a gap, above and beyond which there is a slate spike and another slightly higher foot ledge. Lasso the spike and rock over onto the ledge (poor cam and a rounded jug above). Bridge out towards the arete on huge footholds and limbo under the holdless headwall to gain the jug on the arete. Protect your second then scamper round to belay in the corner below.
8) 5c, 30m. Climb above the belay until it is possible to pull out right onto a sloping ledge (shot-hole protection). Head right around the sharp arete and pop for the jug in the right wall. Campus to the ledge (pro), and continue down a bad step to a vegetated ledge. Belay on the far right at a crack.
9) 4b, 45m. Drop down to the heathery terrace. Traverse above the belay of Bushmaster, above the tunnel entrance, and up towards the chimney of Scorpion. Drop down right and proceed to the huge perched block at the end of the terrace. Surmount this and belay on the ledge above.
10) 4a, 10m. Head left until you can gain the Khyber Pass. © Rockfax
M Dicken 28/Jan/2008.
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Vulture
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))