4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 200m, 1 - 2 hours. From the Helbronner lift, cross the Col des Flambeux. Descend west to the foot of the route. Cross the bergschrund at its narrowest point (normally midway along its length, can be difficult in late summer) and climb the 50 degree snow slope, which is difficult to protect. The face splits to go around a rock buttress - climb the right-hand gully, the difficulty varies greatly with conditions (usually around Scottish III) with some rock protection available. When completely dry it is loose and should be avoided by traversing left into a wide, snowy gully which is followed to rejoin the main route. Crest the ridge to join the Northwest Face route. Descend by the East Face. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
From the Turino hut, head down the glacier, go around the lip of Aiguille de Toule, cross over the large bergschrund and head straight up the north face.
The route sits at 65 degrees, head around the rock outcrop to the right and summit.
head down the east face

Ticklists

Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming, Intro to Alpine

Feedback

UserDateNotes
clokpin 9 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Final pitch looks 55-60 degree steep with bit of ice. Bring snow picket and ice screw for protection. Bergschrund crossing could be tricky with fresh snow.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Final pitch looks 55-60 degree steep with bit of ice. Bring snow picket and ice screw for protection. Bergschrund crossing could be tricky with fresh snow.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
clokpin 3 Jul Lead dnf Was going to do the Northwest face but did North face instead. Condition not ideal (new, soft snow and no track) and bergschrund not visible. Broke a snow bridge at first crossing and got a foot stuck. Tried again on further right and crossed it. Climbed 2-3 pitches of 45-50 degree 30cm soft snow. Thunderstorm came and bailed. Partner's two feet got stuck on bergschrund on way down. Minor epic but great experience overall.
with Winnie the Pooh
Was going to do the Northwest face but did North face instead. Condition not ideal (new, soft snow and no track) and bergschrund not visible. Broke a snow bridge at first crossing and got a foot stuck. Tried again on further right and crossed it. Climbed 2-3 pitches of 45-50 degree 30cm soft snow. Thunderstorm came and bailed. Partner's two feet got stuck on bergschrund on way down. Minor epic but great experience overall.
with Winnie the Pooh
Aled Williams 17 Jun - Though it was tour ronde …….
with Hero Pete
Though it was tour ronde …….
with Hero Pete
AdamDavies97 16 Jul, 2018 Lead
with Kenneth Davies
with Kenneth Davies
Will Sherwood 27 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Taking the left hand route over the ridge instead of under it, this climb is perfect for a first ascent, sustained, good condition. Perfect weather.
Taking the left hand route over the ridge instead of under it, this climb is perfect for a first ascent, sustained, good condition. Perfect weather.
cacheson 26 Jun, 2018 Lead Nice short blast up the face
with CalumI, JordanR
Nice short blast up the face
with CalumI, JordanR
Harry Padley 18 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
James Tamlyn 26 May, 2018 AltLd
with J.C.T Waugh Dyke
with J.C.T Waugh Dyke
Hidden 26 May, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 25 May, 2018 -
Hidden ?Apr, 2015 Lead
DigitalSteak 8 Sep, 2014 Solo O/S Definitely not D+. AD elsewhere
Definitely not D+. AD elsewhere
Bristol_Quornstar 7 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Paolo Intropido
with Paolo Intropido
Claire Molloy ?Jul, 2013 2nd
with Mark Thomas
with Mark Thomas
maria85 10 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S Quick option before running back to Cham as weather coming in. Led ice as one pitch, then moved together to summit.
with Jules
Quick option before running back to Cham as weather coming in. Led ice as one pitch, then moved together to summit.
with Jules
Kirill 9 Jul, 2012 Lead dnf Hard black ice. Started late in the day and possibly too far to the right. Climbed first 60 metres before the rock fell down from the top and missed me by 10 feet and Bill by 2. Downclimbed and ran away.
with Bill Nygaard
Hard black ice. Started late in the day and possibly too far to the right. Climbed first 60 metres before the rock fell down from the top and missed me by 10 feet and Bill by 2. Downclimbed and ran away.
with Bill Nygaard
SerenGib 5 Jul, 2012 AltLd
ThomasO'Hagan ?Jun, 2012 - Excellent route not serious and very short, the line we took wasn't as steep as advertised.
with Vladimir, Alex
Excellent route not serious and very short, the line we took wasn't as steep as advertised.
with Vladimir, Alex
bladderedagain ?Aug, 2011 -
David Horwood 27 Aug, 2006 -
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