75m, 2 pitches.
Start just down and left of the corner formed where the west end buttress joins the main cliff, at a broken corner with a steep slab to its right.
1. 30m. Layaway up the broken corner until it is possible to step left on to a slab, continue and climb an off-width crack on the right to a grassy ledge, then climb the off-width spectacularly to a large pulpit and belay.
2. 45m. Traverse left onto the arete on large holds and climb to the top. Crux at mid height. (50m ropes necessary to reach belay).
1. 30m. Layaway up the broken corner until it is possible to step left on to a slab, continue and climb an off-width crack on the right to a grassy ledge, then climb the off-width spectacularly to a large pulpit and belay.
2. 45m. Traverse left onto the arete on large holds and climb to the top. Crux at mid height. (50m ropes necessary to reach belay).
Jack Bergin, Stephen Gallwey 03/Jun/1991.
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Route of Interest
Dark Angel
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Coumshingaun)