UKC Logbook - 'Au coeur de l'anticyclone'

300m, 11 pitches.

Rockfax Description
320m. Consistent but let down a bit by its wandering line that is regularly broken by ledges. However, the pitches seek out good climbing and are very enjoyable. Start on a grassy ledge below a slab (there is an optional pitch below this but it is often wet and is easily avoided by walking round).
1) 6a+, 2) 6a+, 3) 3c. Traverse round the pinnacle and drop down into the gully to a line of bolts (the same as on the lower pitches). Do not climb to the top of the pinnacle and follow the line of bolts directly behind.
4) 6a+, 5) 6a, 6) 5b. Watch out for rocks being knocked off by people on the traverse.
7) 6a, 8) 6a+, 9) 6b, 10) 6b, 11) 5c. Cross the ledge onto the north side and find a line of bolts ascending the left side of the pinnacle and climb this.
Descent - There are two off-route abseils, one on pitch 8 and one on pitch 5. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A wandering line with harsh grades - don't be at your limit! Take 2x50 and 10 quickdraws. 6a oblig. Might just deserve two stars.
Note: Piola's initial topo in his Aigs Rouges Light guide gives the upper pitches 6a+ which justifies my 'harshly graded' comment.

M Piola / V Sprungli 27/Aug/2011.

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User	Date		Notes
jamesiddon	7 Sep, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Enjoyable route. Plenty of bolts during the harder sections. Enough during the easier bits but best if you don't fall off. The pitch immediately after the grass traverse was a highlight, as well as pitch 10. We decided to abseil into the rocky chute on your left looking down from R4. Saved some time but loose rock made me regret not continuing with the rappels on the topo.
Show beta βeta: Enjoyable route. Plenty of bolts during the harder sections. Enough during the easier bits but best if you don't fall off. The pitch immediately after the grass traverse was a highlight, as well as pitch 10. We decided to abseil into the rocky chute on your left looking down from R4. Saved some time but loose rock made me regret not continuing with the rappels on the topo.
mic.snow	20 Jul, 2019	Show βeta βeta: In the new Piola guide, the route is TD / 300m / 6a obl. The grades are: 6a, 6a+, 6a+, 6a+, 6a, 5b, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b, 5c	βeta?
Show beta βeta: In the new Piola guide, the route is TD / 300m / 6a obl. The grades are: 6a, 6a+, 6a+, 6a+, 6a, 5b, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b, 5c