UKC

Restricted Access

There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.

In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.  

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act),  some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.

 

Climbs the left arete of the obvious block (from a sit start) on the approach to the Gideon terrace. The block is just before the ab point for near dark/after dark.

Phil Targett 06/Nov/2011.

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Guidebooks for Gideon Quarries

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High f6A
Mid f6A
Low f6A
High f5+
Mid f5+
Low f5+
High f5
Mid f5
Low f5
Route of Interest
Perrin's Crack

Grade: V2 ***
(Porth Ysgo)

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