3 pitches. 1) 35m, 4b Do the first pitch of Jolly Roger- Starting from the start of Wreckers Slab, climb diagonally left up the slab. Before the groove, move left over the edge of the slab, and traverse across grass and loose rock to the base of the furthest left, bottomless slab. Belay using pegs/blades and cams at top of a fault near the base of the slab.
2) 40m 4b.follow a grassy crack on the right and continue on right hand side of the slab after about 10m.bold.sparse protection,mainly pegs and suspect rock.a solid belay (regular trad gear)will be found on the arete after rounding a 'corner'.
3) 50m 4a.follow the loose vegetated corner groove above for approx 20m.then moving rightwards onto the top of the slab on the right continue scrambling upwards and slightly right,to gain the left hand edge of the ridge of Wreckers Slab.Belay on large blocks.
Finally scramble along the ridge and back to the cliff top, as you would for the other routes on this wall.
NOTE:Pegs/blades are needed for runners.none in-situ on the route(except one at 1st belay).at the time of writing.

Dave Marsh & minexplorer 14/Nov/2011

minexplorer 08/Jun/13 Lead

have revised original route description by dave,who originally led upper pitches in dark.things look alot different in daylight.

with sam
Rassapotimus 08/Jun/13 2nd β

First HVS multipitch climb, really enjoyable. Ended up being quite testing due to a lack of water and baking sun, drank our fill at the stream afterwards.

Dave 88 14/Nov/11 Lead O/S

minexplorer lead 1st pitch, then did a very good job belaying patiently for the next 7 hours while I fumbled around in the dark looking for a belay.

minexplorer 14/Nov/11 AltLd

ahh 4hrs in the dark....memories.will re climb soon to confirm but suggest to be safe use a 60m rope as 2nd pitch belay may be just beyond 50m an there is no other before it.will need some pegs for it.ive carefully placed most of the loose rock on this route on the beach so u should be able to concentrate on the climbing rather than gardening.we decided HVS for the looseness an low protection over much of the route.

with dave88
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