75m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great two-pitch expedition up the full height of the south wall. Start below a well-bolted slanting groove.
1) 6b, 25m. Climb up the groove heading for the hanging ladder. From a good foothold, jump for the ladder or make a traverse across on boreholes. Scamper up the ladder to a bolt belay by the tunnel.
2) 7a, 50m. A beast of a pitch. Head up towards the wavy groove capped by a square block. Some traditional thrutching up this leads to easier ground and the base of a square-cut groove. This proves trickier than it appears. Belay on a bolt/thread on the viewing platform above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An entertaining 2 pitch slate adventure from the very bottom of the ‘Twll Mawr’ hole topping out on the viewing platform adjacent to the track.
The route can be accessed through the Twll Mawr / Peregrine Wall Tunnels and walking down the scree slope to the bottom of the hole, or alternatively a multiple abseil if you have a spare rope. Start just left of ‘In the Line of Fire’ (left of Supermassive Black Hole) by an obvious and well bolted slanting groove below the hanging ladder.
Pitch 1 -25m (6b) ‘The Wobbly Ladder Pitch’ - climb the bolted series of grooves to gain a small ledge on the main face level with the bottom of the hanging ladder. From a good foothold it is possible to launch / dyno / fly / fall rightwards to gain the ladder – a unique and fun move! The faint hearted i.e. those refusing to fly can gain the same point by traversing along a series of bore holes. Run up the ladder via 2 bolts to a bolt belay by the tunnel.
Pitch 2 – 50m (7a) ‘the big pitch’ - head up towards the incredibly smooth wavy groove capped by a huge square chock stone (solid). Squirm up the frictionless groove and if successful carry on up over easier ground to gain the bottom of a square cut groove. The final groove proves trickier than it looks; bolt / thread belay on the viewing platform above.

Both pitches can be climbed separately due to the easily accessible bolt belay by the tunnel, which allows you to walk in or out if you’re not doing both pitches.

NOTE: If you've enjoyed any of the bolted routes in Twll Mawr please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund :-)

FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuinness (Pitch 1) 25/Nov/2011

Ticklists: Dinorwic Slate - Multi Pitch Sport Climbs, All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7a & 7a+, Slate Sport, Rarely repeated Slate Sport 7's, Twll Mawr Big Wall 1000 Metre Challenge!.

geoff b 26/May/17 AltLd O/S

What an amazing combination of pitches: the 1st is just plain whacky & wouldn't exist anywhere else but these quarries. It would also be desperate in anything other than dry conditions. The 2nd is by turns unlikely, lovely & then brutally thin and balancy: I was very glad to reach the top! Did kick off a block or two but they missed Rod by a mile :-o Once again that man Lloyd-Jones has created a masterpiece.

with Rod W
max_dickens 15/Dec/15 Lead dog

P2 beast pitch, must go back to do it clean.

with Bow
pete johnson 21/Apr/15 Lead dog

Top pitch only. Crux is smoother than George Clooney. Full stealth rubber suit recommended. Fantastic pitch.

with Al Hughes
dswansonlow 02/May/14 AltLd O/S

1 pitch. after wobbling the ladder from the top before starting it gave the impression it would in no way hold me if I flew 2m through the air to grab it, so I bailed and traversed to it.. 1st pitch was super dirty. 2nd pitch is awkward but all there, really interesting climbing on the smoothest rock possible. Really fun near the top.

shed_hed 02/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2. First pitch felt a bit dirty and esoteric but the wobbly ladder was cool and seemed more secure than it felt. Pitch 2 was tricky to start in the groove but eased shortly after and was great to keep going all the way to the top.

guy757 21/Apr/14 -
Hidden 19/Mar/13 Lead O/S
willoates 08/May/12 Lead O/S

lead the 2nd Wavey groove pitch of this thinking it was supermassive black hole. found it tricky to read and just about hung on.

with John Oooooore
ian Ll-J 25/Nov/11 Lead RP

First Ascent

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