18m.

Rockfax Description
A hard move at half-height, either dyno for a blob or climb to the left of it. The second option is easier but less satisfying. © Rockfax

Feedback

UserDateNotes
andi turner 13 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This route is really good. The dyno is really a defunct method as the wall climbing is much easier but distinctley less satisfying. The upper wall is superb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route is really good. The dyno is really a defunct method as the wall climbing is much easier but distinctley less satisfying. The upper wall is superb.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 12 Aug Lead dog
rachelpearce01 15 Jan Lead RP Really pleased to get this. Dogged up it the other day and thought it might go. Third time lucky! Tricky up to the crux , and then very tenuous and balancy. I did it by matching mini crimp jug and then going out left and then right hand undercut and up with left to crozzly crimp. And then right hand to blob. Do not know how you are meant to dyno that?? Bad rockfax beta maybe. Great climb though, lots of interesting moves all the way to the top.
Really pleased to get this. Dogged up it the other day and thought it might go. Third time lucky! Tricky up to the crux , and then very tenuous and balancy. I did it by matching mini crimp jug and then going out left and then right hand undercut and up with left to crozzly crimp. And then right hand to blob. Do not know how you are meant to dyno that?? Bad rockfax beta maybe. Great climb though, lots of interesting moves all the way to the top.
George_Surf 15 Jan Lead RP Took a while to figure the crux. For me, blob dyno moves were out of the question. In the end, from the sloping edge above the pinch, I used a hold out left to get high feet, then balance off the undercut for mini incut jugs left of the blob. More interesting sequences above but they’re easier and more obvious. Good climbing
Took a while to figure the crux. For me, blob dyno moves were out of the question. In the end, from the sloping edge above the pinch, I used a hold out left to get high feet, then balance off the undercut for mini incut jugs left of the blob. More interesting sequences above but they’re easier and more obvious. Good climbing
rachelpearce01 9 Jan Lead dog Felt scary! Didn’t want to go for the crux without getting the clip in as it requires standing up on high feet into a tenuous balancy undercut. Very precarious! Managed to do the crux with mini throw for the blob off poor undercut. Continues to be a bit scary and felt slightly run out. A good climb though. Would try it again and maybe put the crux on long sling !
Felt scary! Didn’t want to go for the crux without getting the clip in as it requires standing up on high feet into a tenuous balancy undercut. Very precarious! Managed to do the crux with mini throw for the blob off poor undercut. Continues to be a bit scary and felt slightly run out. A good climb though. Would try it again and maybe put the crux on long sling !
Hidden 3 Jan Lead RP
Tutu 30 Dec, 2018 Lead dog found the middle sequence quite difficult and lost a fair amount of skin trying the moves. Second go seemed easier but felt too tired and gave up. Did the crux by either standing up with the help of an undercut hold or going left. The "blob" is quite slippery for a dyno and I ended up never using it but sticking to crimps instead…
found the middle sequence quite difficult and lost a fair amount of skin trying the moves. Second go seemed easier but felt too tired and gave up. Did the crux by either standing up with the help of an undercut hold or going left. The "blob" is quite slippery for a dyno and I ended up never using it but sticking to crimps instead…
Max Lowry 16 Dec, 2018 Lead O/S Didn't go left or Dyno... Grabbed undercut and stood up on high feet and grabbed the blob
Didn't go left or Dyno... Grabbed undercut and stood up on high feet and grabbed the blob
rado ?Dec, 2018 Lead dog
Will Collett 22 Jan, 2018 Lead RP if you can make it to the rail by the blob you're probably not going to struggle with the rest of it. hard 3rd clip. had to do tough move to climb left (not going for blob). perhaps there is easier beta but this way feels like solid (if a little short lived) 7b.
if you can make it to the rail by the blob you're probably not going to struggle with the rest of it. hard 3rd clip. had to do tough move to climb left (not going for blob). perhaps there is easier beta but this way feels like solid (if a little short lived) 7b.
Xelif 24 Nov, 2017 Lead RP 4th go. The moves to the left are plenty satisfying for me, great route, my third 7b
4th go. The moves to the left are plenty satisfying for me, great route, my third 7b
Ally Smith 4 Mar, 2017 Lead dog Bleurgh! Polished finger pocket nastiness
with hms
Bleurgh! Polished finger pocket nastiness
with hms
td72 20 Feb, 2017 Lead RP Lost my onsight going for the dyno to the blob (which the books says is a good way to do it (its not) the blob isn't even that positive. Got it on the second tie in. should get 3* for definite
with katie93
Lost my onsight going for the dyno to the blob (which the books says is a good way to do it (its not) the blob isn't even that positive. Got it on the second tie in. should get 3* for definite
with katie93
samparsons 7 Feb, 2017 Lead dog
dan gibson 2 Jan, 2017 Lead RP
Hidden 25 Dec, 2016 Lead RP
Hidden 21 Feb, 2016 Lead RP
climberchristy 19 Feb, 2016 Lead RP One onsight try then worked crux on top rope. Then led ground up 1st go after that. Really pleased as pretty tired and crux is tricky. Great route!
with Vanessa
One onsight try then worked crux on top rope. Then led ground up 1st go after that. Really pleased as pretty tired and crux is tricky. Great route!
with Vanessa
Lanchester 7 Sep, 2015 - harder if you go direct and do the move static
harder if you go direct and do the move static
Frances Bensley 30 Jan, 2015 Lead O/S
afrosam 10 Jan, 2015 Lead dog
oliverpcain ??, 2014 Lead O/S
SMc 5 Apr, 2012 Lead RP
with Anne
with Anne
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 8 Nov, 2011 Lead dog
with Paul Goodship, Sami Mandeel, samtucker
with Paul Goodship, Sami Mandeel, samtucker
JPGR 12 Jan, 2011 Lead
JulesV 9 Dec, 2010 Lead RP
with Shauna Cunningham
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 10 Jan, 2010 Lead RP
Gus ?Mar, 2005 Lead O/S
with alan cassidy, gypsy thieving b*stard
with alan cassidy, gypsy thieving b*stard
keefe ??, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2005 Lead RP
duffer 21 Dec, 2001 Lead RP
Hidden 6 Jan, 2001 Lead O/S
3 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Not Set