Rockfax Description
HVS. An impressive route with exciting positions. The first three pitches are fully bolted. Descent is possible from the top of pitch 3, but the upper section has some good climbing - including the crux (about HVS). Start by abseiling 25m from the left side (looking uphill) of the new road bridge, to a small ledge well above the base of the gorge.
1) 5+, 40m. Climb across to a detached pillar, then move up a wall and make a delicate traverse left to reach a cave.
2) 4+, 36m. Pull steeply into a groove and follow it to ledges.
3) 3, 20m. Scramble easily up a corner behind and onto a big ledge. You can escape leftwards here, back to the road, or scramble up the ramp to below a big red groove.
4) 5+, 40m. Climb the groove (easier than it looks) until you are forced left across a slab to a stance.
5) 4, 30m. Move left, then climb up another groove, past a hole. Big flakes lead to a stance with a tree, below a crack.
6) 5, 20m. The crack above the tree is awkward, but soon eases and leads to a rather sudden finish. A more direct finish 2m left of the tree is 6a. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An impressive route with some exciting positions above the road. The first three pitches and the last one are fully bolted and descent is possible from the top of pitch 3 but the upper section does have some good climbing, including the crux pitch. Start by abseiling from the left-hand side (looking uphill) of the new road bridge, to a small ledge above the base of the gorge.
1) 5+, 40m. Climb across to a detached pillar, then move up a wall and make a delicate traverse left until you can reach a cave.
2) 4+, 36m. Pull steeply into the groove and follow it to ledges.
3) 3, 20m. Scramble easily up a corner behind and onto a big ledge. You can escape leftwards here, back to the road, or scramble up the ramp to below a big red groove
4) 5+, 40m. Climb the groove, with a single rusty "chain link" bolt at half height for protection, so take some big hexes and cams to protect the top, after which you are forced left across a slab (in situ pegs) to a stance.
5) 4, 30m. Traverse left round a corner, then climb up another groove, past a hole. Some big flakes lead to a stance (bolts) on a good ledge just above a tree. There is a crack to the right and a ramp with a small roof above the bolts.
6) 5, 20m. (Both variations now fully bolted) The crack is awkward but soon eases and leads to a rather sudden finish. The direct finish above the belay is 6a.

FA. Javier Motes, Moises Garc?a, Enrique Barber?, Ernesto L?pez 1970s 1975.

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