Rockfax Description
A great route that is best used as an extension of a route on East Buttress. Scramble up to below a corner, right of the arete right of Octo, to a spike belay.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb the groove on worrying holds for 9m then traverse left on flakes towards a ledge on the arete. Move up (old peg up and right is not needed) onto the arete to a crack. Make committing moves up this then an easier traverse left leads to the base of another groove. Climb this to a belay.
2) 8m. Climb easily up then left to a stance above Octo. Scramble off right or, better, tackle the next route..... © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, Alex's Wales ticklist.

RKirke 26/Aug 2nd O/S
Stroppy 26/Aug Lead O/S

Went the wrong way and finished up desperate straights. Seemed pretty logical at the time...

JendeHoxar 18/Sep/16 AltLd
with Pati
Hidden 14/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
TRip 17/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Mark Stevenson 17/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
DaveThexton 16/Aug/16 AltLd
with Tom, josh
Hidden 16/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/16 AltLd
robpartridge 04/Jun/16 Lead
with Helen
jezb1 17/May/16 2nd
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
dan ely 01/Jul/15 2nd O/S

1 pitch

with dave chew
Hidden ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Misha 26/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Approached via Jelly Roll and a scramble across the Green Gallery, felt a bit Alpine with then loose rock! There's a good spike belay a few metres up, just where the proper climbing starts. A good pitch, mostly steady but the crux packs a punch with a couple of hard moves. A bit dirty - needs more traffic. The heavens opened as I was about half way up, with a short sharp shower just after I did the crux. Did some hard moves on the traverse after the crux but think I went too high - lower down looked easier. Didn't great too wet climbing and fortunately the wet holds were large enough and the small holds mostly stayed dry, still slowed me down. Were originally going to do the Hand Traverse to finish but with the rain were happy to scramble off! White out on top, dropped too low on the skirt round the top so dropped into Cwm Hetiau (rather than the way we had come up from Ynys via Cwm Glas). Back at Ynys just before it got dark at 10pm, just under 12 hours round trip! The Corner, Jelly Roll and this. Could have done without the rain!

with Eszter
mike mo ??/2014 -
Bob ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 AltLd
with Dave Woodcock
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
harold walmsley 21/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Richard Bissell
Dan Mckinlay 18/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/13 Lead
James Oswald 11/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Very nice massively exposed pitch. Climbed it after doing Lithrig. Ran the 2 pitches into one monster pitch. Find the hidden holds

Mark Reeves 11/Jul/13 2nd
Mark Leicester 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Magnificent situation with good holds and mostly good gear - a hidden gem.

georgedunton 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
jcw ??/2013 -
khawk 08/Sep/12 Lead dog
soph 11/Aug/12 2nd
Glyn 11/Aug/12 Lead


with Sophie
soph 25/May/12 Lead
with Mandy Tee
Luke Brooks 23/May/12 2nd
with John Orr
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
owain86 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Great climbing

with Ben
BenTiffin 31/Jul/11 2nd

Good route - E2 for a shortish section.

with Owen Atkins
Alex Mason 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S

1 pitch. Awesome, jugs all over.

with George Ullrich
givemetea 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S
dan gibson 04/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with roslyn mckendry
zukator ??/2010 Lead
morganator 07/Jun/08 2nd
Marcus ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Ben1983 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/06 Lead O/S
pete johnson ?/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Dave Rumney
mike lawrence? ??/2006 -
Ched ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
duncan 06/May/95 2nd
with Dave Wills
Seymore Butt ??/1995 -
with Swinney, Spuz
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Jun/91 Lead O/S
with George reah
andybirtwistle 22/Jul/89 AltLd O/S
with Mike Arnold
Hidden 27/May/89 2nd
michael burrows 12/Jun/88 Lead O/S
with ket
Hidden 09/Jun/84 Lead
Hidden ??/1984 AltLd
charlesmfrench 03/Jul/83 2nd O/S
with Alan Bennett
uphillnow 02/Jul/83 2nd
with charlie french
Hidden ??/1983 2nd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Ian Jones ??/1979 2nd O/S

Hard enough.

with Billy Jones
Paul Clarke ??/1978 Lead
with Dave Westby
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
Martin Bennett 07/Jul/77 -
with JD
Mike Owen 29/May/77 Lead O/S
with John Roberts
Steve Lewis 28/May/77 2nd
with Pete, sharpie
mikej 11/Aug/76 Lead
with Mike Byles
Sean Kelly ?/Jul/76 2nd

When you swing around the arete the crack is furnished with another inside making the ascent easier, thank god!

with Bob Millward
jon ?/Jun/76 -
with paul m
petemeads ??/1976 Lead
sharpie ?/Apr/74 2nd O/S
with Phill Thomas
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