Rockfax Description
A great route that is best used as an extension of a route on East Buttress. Scramble up to below a corner, right of the arete right of Octo, to a spike belay.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb the groove on worrying holds for 9m then traverse left on flakes towards a ledge on the arete. Move up (old peg up and right is not needed) onto the arete to a crack. Make committing moves up this then an easier traverse left leads to the base of another groove. Climb this to a belay.
2) 8m. Climb easily up then left to a stance above Octo. Scramble off right or, better, tackle the next route..... © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, Alex's Wales ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
rachelpearce01 29 Jun 2nd
George_Surf 29 Jun Lead O/S Good but a bit green and loads of hollow sounding rock.
Good but a bit green and loads of hollow sounding rock.
John McKenna 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Slovak Pete
with Slovak Pete
Flavio 9 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 9 Jul, 2018 2nd rpt
with Flavio
with Flavio
The Grist 8 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Dan Metcalfe
with Dan Metcalfe
manwithacam 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd Exposed, steep, long. Whats not to like. With a bit of crumbling rock at the start to mix it up. Bonkers
with the grist
Exposed, steep, long. Whats not to like. With a bit of crumbling rock at the start to mix it up. Bonkers
with the grist
Boy 7 Jul, 2018 2nd
with Jon Coe
with Jon Coe
papashango 3 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with geoff b
with geoff b
geoff b 3 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Another cracking route through unlikely terrain. P1 has awesome exposure & a tough crux. I followed the guidebook description for P2 '6m no grade, finish direct'. Thus I went up the left side of the arete: more like 30m E2 5a 'The Jenga Alternative'. New route? Not recommended!
with Conor
Another cracking route through unlikely terrain. P1 has awesome exposure & a tough crux. I followed the guidebook description for P2 '6m no grade, finish direct'. Thus I went up the left side of the arete: more like 30m E2 5a 'The Jenga Alternative'. New route? Not recommended!
with Conor
Martin Cooper 1 Jul, 2018 2nd Great route. Awkward going around the arĂȘte.
with Dave Sykes
Great route. Awkward going around the arĂȘte.
with Dave Sykes
davesykes 1 Jul, 2018 Lead Significant exposure on big holds. Great route.
Significant exposure on big holds. Great route.
Butel 24 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S Good to get out on the rock again after shoulder dislocation. Good route not as good a shrike but still varied climbing.
with Gaz
Good to get out on the rock again after shoulder dislocation. Good route not as good a shrike but still varied climbing.
with Gaz
Mark Stevenson 6 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt
with nawface
with nawface
Hidden 4 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
foobar123 4 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S Getting to the rock after the chossy / grassy start is a blessed relief. Good moves and fantastic exposure as you pull round the arete. Technically led p2, but that doesn't really count.
Getting to the rock after the chossy / grassy start is a blessed relief. Good moves and fantastic exposure as you pull round the arete. Technically led p2, but that doesn't really count.
murray 4 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S Tough crux move, but generally good holds underneath the lichen- the full clog experience!
Tough crux move, but generally good holds underneath the lichen- the full clog experience!
RKirke 26 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
with Stroppy
with Stroppy
Stroppy 26 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Went the wrong way and finished up desperate straights. Seemed pretty logical at the time...
with RKirke
Went the wrong way and finished up desperate straights. Seemed pretty logical at the time...
with RKirke
JendeHoxar 18 Sep, 2016 AltLd
with Pati
with Pati
Hidden 14 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
Tom Ripley 17 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Mark Stevenson 17 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
DaveThexton 16 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 16 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16 Aug, 2016 AltLd
robpartridge 4 Jun, 2016 Lead
with Helen
with Helen
jezb1 17 May, 2016 2nd
Climbingspike ??, 2016 -
dan ely 1 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S 1 pitch
with dave chew
1 pitch
with dave chew
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Dave Rumney ??, 2015 -
Dave Rumney ??, 2015 -
Dave Rumney ??, 2015 -
Misha 26 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S Approached via Jelly Roll and a scramble across the Green Gallery, felt a bit Alpine with then loose rock! There's a good spike belay a few metres up, just where the proper climbing starts. A good pitch, mostly steady but the crux packs a punch with a couple of hard moves. A bit dirty - needs more traffic. The heavens opened as I was about half way up, with a short sharp shower just after I did the crux. Did some hard moves on the traverse after the crux but think I went too high - lower down looked easier. Didn't great too wet climbing and fortunately the wet holds were large enough and the small holds mostly stayed dry, still slowed me down. Were originally going to do the Hand Traverse to finish but with the rain were happy to scramble off! White out on top, dropped too low on the skirt round the top so dropped into Cwm Hetiau (rather than the way we had come up from Ynys via Cwm Glas). Back at Ynys just before it got dark at 10pm, just under 12 hours round trip! The Corner, Jelly Roll and this. Could have done without the rain!
with eszter
Approached via Jelly Roll and a scramble across the Green Gallery, felt a bit Alpine with then loose rock! There's a good spike belay a few metres up, just where the proper climbing starts. A good pitch, mostly steady but the crux packs a punch with a couple of hard moves. A bit dirty - needs more traffic. The heavens opened as I was about half way up, with a short sharp shower just after I did the crux. Did some hard moves on the traverse after the crux but think I went too high - lower down looked easier. Didn't great too wet climbing and fortunately the wet holds were large enough and the small holds mostly stayed dry, still slowed me down. Were originally going to do the Hand Traverse to finish but with the rain were happy to scramble off! White out on top, dropped too low on the skirt round the top so dropped into Cwm Hetiau (rather than the way we had come up from Ynys via Cwm Glas). Back at Ynys just before it got dark at 10pm, just under 12 hours round trip! The Corner, Jelly Roll and this. Could have done without the rain!
with eszter
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Bob ??, 2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??, 2014 AltLd
with Dave Woodcock
with Dave Woodcock
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
harold walmsley 21 Jul, 2013 Lead rpt
with Richard Bissell
with Richard Bissell
Dan Mckinlay 18 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 Jul, 2013 Lead
James Oswald 11 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Very nice massively exposed pitch. Climbed it after doing Lithrig. Ran the 2 pitches into one monster pitch. Find the hidden holds
Very nice massively exposed pitch. Climbed it after doing Lithrig. Ran the 2 pitches into one monster pitch. Find the hidden holds
Mark Reeves 11 Jul, 2013 2nd
Mark Leicester 9 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Magnificent situation with good holds and mostly good gear - a hidden gem.
Magnificent situation with good holds and mostly good gear - a hidden gem.
georgedunton 6 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
jcw ??, 2013 -
khawk 8 Sep, 2012 Lead dog
soph 11 Aug, 2012 2nd
with Glyn
with Glyn
Glyn 11 Aug, 2012 Lead Awesome!
with Sophie
Awesome!
with Sophie
soph 25 May, 2012 Lead
with Mandy Tee
with Mandy Tee
Luke Brooks 23 May, 2012 2nd
with John Orr
with John Orr
Hidden ??, 2012 Lead O/S
owain86 31 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Great climbing
Great climbing
BenTiffin 31 Jul, 2011 2nd Good route - E2 for a shortish section.
with Owen Atkins
Good route - E2 for a shortish section.
with Owen Atkins
Alex Mason 11 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S 1 pitch. Awesome, jugs all over.
with George Ullrich
1 pitch. Awesome, jugs all over.
with George Ullrich
givemetea 4 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
dan gibson 4 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
with roslyn mckendry
with roslyn mckendry
zukator ??, 2010 Lead
morganator 7 Jun, 2008 2nd
with soph
with soph
Marcus ??, 2008 -
Hidden ??, 2008 AltLd O/S
Ben1983 9 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Jun, 2006 2nd O/S
Hidden 5 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
pete johnson ?Jun, 2006 2nd O/S
with Dave Rumney
with Dave Rumney
mike lawrence? ??, 2006 -
Ched ??, 1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
with Glanfor
Greg Cunningham 2 May, 1997 AltLd
with dave langrish
with dave langrish
MikePycroft ?Jun, 1996 Lead O/S
duncan 6 May, 1995 2nd
with Dave Wills
with Dave Wills
Seymore Butt ??, 1995 Lead
with Swinney, Spuz
with Swinney, Spuz
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?Jun, 1991 Lead O/S
with George reah
with George reah
pauldrew ??, 1990 -
with Terry Leggett, Dominic Leggett
with Terry Leggett, Dominic Leggett
andybirtwistle 22 Jul, 1989 AltLd O/S
with Mike Arnold
with Mike Arnold
Hidden 27 May, 1989 2nd
Neil McA 25 Jun, 1988 2nd rpt
with Janet Robinson
with Janet Robinson
michael burrows 12 Jun, 1988 Lead O/S
with ket
with ket
Hidden 9 Jun, 1984 Lead
Pete Wimbush 9 Jun, 1984 2nd
with Paddy Gibson
with Paddy Gibson
Hidden ??, 1984 AltLd
charlesmfrench 3 Jul, 1983 2nd O/S
with Alan Bennett
with Alan Bennett
uphillnow 2 Jul, 1983 2nd
with charlie french
with charlie french
Hidden ??, 1983 2nd
clanger ??, 1982 Lead
Neil McA 27 Aug, 1980 Lead O/S Felt very out there as a 17 year old with a guidebook grade of E1 at the time
with Someone called John I met in The Pass
Felt very out there as a 17 year old with a guidebook grade of E1 at the time
with Someone called John I met in The Pass
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
Ian Jones ??, 1979 2nd O/S Hard enough.
with Billy Jones
Hard enough.
with Billy Jones
cenotaphcorner 27 May, 1978 2nd O/S
with Paul Ingham
with Paul Ingham
Hidden ??, 1978 Lead
granitbahn ??, 1978 AltLd
Phil Davidson 9 Aug, 1977 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 7 Jul, 1977 -
with JD
with JD
Mike Owen 29 May, 1977 Lead O/S
with John Roberts
with John Roberts
Steve Lewis 28 May, 1977 2nd
with Pete, sharpie
with Pete, sharpie
mikej 11 Aug, 1976 Lead
with Mike Byles
with Mike Byles
Sean Kelly ?Jul, 1976 2nd When you swing around the arete the crack is furnished with another inside making the ascent easier, thank god!
with Bob Millward
When you swing around the arete the crack is furnished with another inside making the ascent easier, thank god!
with Bob Millward
Hidden ?Jun, 1976 -
petemeads ??, 1976 Lead
sharpie ?Apr, 1974 2nd O/S
with Phill Thomas
with Phill Thomas
Rick51 29 Mar, 1974 AltLd
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 16
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set