4674m. From base camp(CB), it is possible to see to the west, a great brown rock face crossed down up by a snowfield which gets lost beneath a line of threatening seracs... The route goes that way. If we pay attention, you will see from base camp a cone shaped snowfield which ends at the base of the wall, very close to a little water course which trickles down the rock. Here starts the climbing on poor quality rock, but with no technical difficulties, except a couple of somewhat exposed sections. The route starts up a small rock couloir which heads diagonally to the north (P1). The route is not very clear, nor is there a unique way up. The important thing is to keep going up, but always trying to reach a couple of snowfields which make the ascent easier and safer. Depending on the season´s temperatures this description might change, but there are generally two great snowfields on the wall, beneath the serac line. In this way we reach high camp (C1) (3900m), located just above the border of the glacier. It is about 6-8 hours from base camp to high camp.

The summit bid isn´t too long (4-5 hrs), although pretty tiring, especially when the glacier presents many crevasses and the sun has already formed great penientes. From high camp the route crosses the glacier in north direction, making a traverse with little altitude gain, until being exactly beneath Morado´s north summit. From there, the route goes straight up. In the middle of this last part there is a short section of rotten ice and 50º (P2) See photo 4. From there to the summit it is just 150 meters.

The descent to high camp can take between 2 and 3 hrs. The descent from high camp to base camp is somewhat complicated. A couple of sections are harder going down than going up, and there are not many safe places where to install a rappel, requiring to downclimb. It should take 4-5 hours from high camp to base camp.

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