UKC

Restricted Access

There are two types of climbing here: ‘traditional’ Dover-style ice climbing and sport-chalk (using pre-placed gear and lower-offs). The former lie on the cliffs immediately east of the beach at Saltdean (below the Lido), and the sport-chalk routes on both this cliff and the cliff east of the beach below The Smugglers Rest pub in Telescombe Cliffs (the name of the place not the cliff). All recent activity has been on the sport-chalk routes. The coastguards at the Solent Maritime Rescue Co-ordinating Centre (MRCC), should be phoned on (02392) 552100 before and after climbing. The chalk cliffs from Brighton to Newhaven and the wave-cut platform at their base are designated as an SSSI. Although the main interest of the site is geological, some rare and uncommon plants grow on the cliff face and in the narrow strip of cliff-top chalk grassland. The cliffs support a locally important colony of breeding seabirds, and a diverse community of beetles and spiders.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 January to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are two access restrictions agreed with English Nature: - The seaward side of the cliff-top fence must not be disturbed as the cliff-top turf is a very rare habitat. Do not top-out, and do not abseil or top-rope from the cliff-top. If this is ignored the future access for climbers will be put in jeopardy. Most of the new-style routes are equipped with lower-offs, but anyone doing the longer routes on the Western Cliff and a few others will need to install their own lower-offs/abseil stations below the crumbling cliff-top. This would be an improvement on the previous practice on many of the routes of using slings hanging down from the fence posts to belay on at the top. The other (variable) restriction is if peregrines are nesting - no climbing within 150 metres of the nests For information on any nesting restrictions, please phone the BMC's Access & Conservation Officer on 01614 383309.

No bolts so top-rope. Follow a direct line, as the rope hangs, from the Strangeness and the Charm of the Quark lower-off. This line stays to the right of the bolted line. Steep climbing in the upper half on delicate, small holds. Do not create new holds.

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High M5+
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High M5
Mid M5
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High M4+
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Style of Ascent
Toproped
Lead
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Back to the Future

Grade: M5 ***
(Saltdean)

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