Restricted Access
Although located on land mapped as open access, climbing on this crag has been historically banned due to concerns about falling rock. Following negotiations between the BMC and the National Trust, access for climbing has now been agreed, subject to a nesting restriction to protect nesting choughs.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There are both sea birds and protected species nesting at this cliff and a seasonal restriction is in place from March 1st to June 30th.
25m.
takes the right-left rising diagonal crack line between "King" and "Broken Arrow". (The name is another Davy Crockett reference)
Start directly below "Clifford 1912" (etched in the slate). Balance boldly up the steep lower wall to gain the easier slab, via a long reach to creaky flakes at 5m (crux). The crack above gives thin but positive climbing through the steepening. Easier ground above leads to a bolt lower off on the right.
Start directly below "Clifford 1912" (etched in the slate). Balance boldly up the steep lower wall to gain the easier slab, via a long reach to creaky flakes at 5m (crux). The crack above gives thin but positive climbing through the steepening. Easier ground above leads to a bolt lower off on the right.
Phil Stevens( Chuck ) 16/Jan/2012.
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Route of Interest
Californian Arete
Grade: E1 4c ***
(California)