Restricted Access
Although located on land mapped as open access, climbing on this crag has been historically banned due to concerns about falling rock. Following negotiations between the BMC and the National Trust, access for climbing has now been agreed, subject to a nesting restriction to protect nesting choughs.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There are both sea birds and protected species nesting at this cliff and a seasonal restriction is in place from March 1st to June 30th.
35m.
The wall on the far right of the quarry holds the line of Zeus start under the large flake climb boldly up the first 12meters with no runners and a few loose bits of rock, enter the diagonal crack continue up this until the large flake is gained where you can rest before continuing, follow the next diagonal crack to increasing difficult moves then make your way through the crux and finish up easily. either lower off or walk down.
Michael Allday 28/Jan/2012.
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Route of Interest
Void
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))