July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock) in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area.
The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.
BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.
Reason: Nesting Birds
A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.
Rockfax Description
A route that was originally graded VS, which is pretty outrageous given the terrain. Start up the groove of Act Naturally and, after 7m, traverse out on jugs to the arete. Climb past two pegs and the bolt studs. Finish straight up, 1m right of a groove. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
all three bolts now removed, original first peg still there, and a little hollow, and another peg has been wacked into the bolt hole after bolt was chopped!.climb act naturally for about 20 ft untill the first nut placement is found in the crack,then traverse left and up the rib to the peg, climb straight up to the second peg, (shared climbing and protection with `the skyline club`). make a delicate moves left to the rib, then start the long and nervy runout upwards following the easiest, least loose holds to the top groove, small nut placement, then straight up the corner to a nice airy move out right to the big hold! some loose rock, care needed!
was graded E1 5a with three bolts, having done this today, and only having two pegs and a dodgy nut at the top, i believe it to be nearer E2 5A!
j.brown.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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sasmojo | 9 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Found the route to be sound and as decribed. Worth trying Antiquity Direct, which we put up on the same day (FA) and logged on the same day: http://slate.wikifoundry.com/page/SKYLINE+BUTTRESS+LEVEL see Antiquity Direct at the same grade but thin and a spaced out in the mid section. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Found the route to be sound and as decribed. Worth trying Antiquity Direct, which we put up on the same day (FA) and logged on the same day: http://slate.wikifoundry.com/page/SKYLINE+BUTTRESS+LEVEL see Antiquity Direct at the same grade but thin and a spaced out in the mid section. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Carreg Bengam Bach)