UKC

Restricted Access

Although located on land mapped as open access, climbing on this crag has been historically banned due to concerns about falling rock. Following negotiations between the BMC and the National Trust, access for climbing has now been agreed, subject to a nesting restriction to protect nesting choughs.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are both sea birds and protected species nesting at this cliff and a seasonal restriction is in place from March 1st to June 30th.

50m. the corner on the right to where the line curves out leftwards and is followed to the top. Can be split into two pitches . Requires a thorough clean. A new bolted line just to the left Concubine Fever 12meters 6b at the moment supersedes pitch one

J.Codling, T.Bristlin 1981.

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Guidebooks for Barmouth Quarry

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book
Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Route of Interest
Spectrum

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Clogwyn y Grochan)

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