Rockfax Description
The normal route up this tower is a fairly adventurous undertaking around low VS in UK terms. The exposure is phenomenal.
1) 4b, 40m. Climb the easy terrain to the base of the wall and follow the terrace right to a steep chimney with a thread at the top. The belay is up and right on the main arete.
2) 3a, 35m. Follow the gully up left, passing a couple of awkward steps, to exit up and right below a overhang. The belay is on the left on the ledge.
3) 4b, 25m. Step up and follow the terrace rightwards to below a corner. Climb this - care needed with a few loose holds - to belay in the col.
4) 4b, 15m. Head up towards the tower and make a balancy steep up to gain a sloping shelf. Traverse right past an exposed step and carry on up to a the summit.
Descent - Abseil back down the route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The route climbs a pinnacle off the S face of Peña Olvidada. It describes a spiral or corkscrew line around the pinnacle, starting in a gully on the S face before moving round to the N face to a gap between this and the neighbouring pinnacle and finally summitting on the S face again. Three abseils to the ground, typically from summit, 2nd and 1st belay.

P. Udaondo and A. Urones 09/Jan/1966.

Feedback Always Hide βeta