UKC

200m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular classic taking a line up the disjointed grooves on the left side of the central section of the face. There are better routes to the right but this is still a good introduction to the cliff. The route is well bolted and sees plenty of traffic. Start left of the toe of the buttress at a right-trending groove.
1) 4+, 40m. Climb the ramp rightwards past a cave to a ledge.
2) 5+, 35m. Trend left to a groove and up this to a tree. The crux is harder than anything else on the climb but is easily friggable.
3) 4+, 35m. Climb the groove above then the pillar on the right.
4) 4+, 35m. Trend left then follow cracks to a niche.
5) 5+, 50m. Traverse right across the face then climb a groove eventually passing an old stance to an easier finish © Rockfax

FA. Juan Carrillo, Mariano Cantabella 1970s 1975.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50 , Costa B , Costa Blanca 2022

Feedback

User Date Notes
Steve Woollard 19 Dec, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Local blog gives it as 5+,6a+,4+,5+ 6a, but this seems a bit generous ?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Local blog gives it as 5+,6a+,4+,5+ 6a, but this seems a bit generous ?
Mike Shamash 30 Jan, 2013 Show βeta
βeta: Great route ... there maybe a 6a move on it as local guide says. but 5+ is what I'd give it. Its one of the most popular routes on the crag - so I'd advise people to buy the local guide (or look at someone elses) - there are about 100 routes on the main face.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route ... there maybe a 6a move on it as local guide says. but 5+ is what I'd give it. Its one of the most popular routes on the crag - so I'd advise people to buy the local guide (or look at someone elses) - there are about 100 routes on the main face.
john yates 16 Dec, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Agree there is no belay on top of pitch five and thi and the last one are easily run together. the rib on pitch three is over to the right and not the left as described.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agree there is no belay on top of pitch five and thi and the last one are easily run together. the rib on pitch three is over to the right and not the left as described.
liam 2 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route very well bolted. The last 2 pitches must have been combined cos the 2nd to last belay isnt there.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route very well bolted. The last 2 pitches must have been combined cos the 2nd to last belay isnt there.
Swig 5 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Good route and very well bolted. Couldn't find a belay at the end of pitch 5. Ran P5 and P6 together. The locals ahead of us did the same.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good route and very well bolted. Couldn't find a belay at the end of pitch 5. Ran P5 and P6 together. The locals ahead of us did the same.

Logged Ascents

95 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Leyva

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 68 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Maria Angeles

Grade: 5c ***
(La Panocha)

Loading Notifications...