Rockfax Description
A series of grooves finishing up the left side of the prominent diagonal overhang near the cliff top. Start at a left-slanting crack under the fall-line from the great roof. There is some loose rock near the top, care required if there are teams below. Some of the bolts are spaced - a few wires might help to plug the gaps.1) 6a, 40m. Climb the crack and corner to a flake. Up this, and the wall above, to the upper of two ledges.2) 6a+, 30m. Climb the wall then trend right into a crusty corner. Climb this and the continuation crack then trend left to a ledge - complete with loose blocks.3) 5+, 40m. Up a short groove to a flake then move right into the main corner. Up this to the roof then step left to a stance.4) 5+, 40m. An awkward chimney leads to a large ledge above which a diagonal corner heads for the summit. © Rockfax
FA. Juan Carrillo Olmos, Miguel Garcia Gallego 1971.
Ticklists
100 Spanish multi-pitch classics
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jon Greening | 28 Nov, 2014 |
Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route. First pitch is really good. Exposure is great, the wall is more or less vertical. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route. First pitch is really good. Exposure is great, the wall is more or less vertical. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Leyva
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Fisuro Abuelico
Grade: 6a+ ***
(Mula)