Rockfax Description
A good route if it is dry, otherwise it is a bit of a slimy nightmare. Start below a greasy chimney.
1) 4a, 15m. Climb the chimney or the right wall which, although often drier, is much harder. Belay on a ledge on the right.
2) 4c, 15m. The narrower slot is now easier but this is only short lived; you will eventually be forced to the right where accommodating holds lead you back to the chimney and a belay.
3) 4a, 12m. Fairly straightforward climbing leads up until the right wall slabs off. Follow this to a belay.
4) 4c, 20m. Move down and right and step round the rib into a groove (on Diglyph). Climb up this to a large flake. Move right to the steep wall and climb this on good holds in a mind-blowing position to reach the terrace. Either escape left and then back right, or continue on in the chimney theme with...
5) 4b, 30m. The Continuation Chimney. Climb the chimney above to the top. © Rockfax

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