Rockfax Description
Although harder, this route may be more doable for some than the crux move on Gwaed. It does have an independent start but it is better to start up Gwaed, which makes this a somewhat short hybrid between Gwaed and Chwys, but is still enjoyable.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb up to the crack and follow it to a small ledge. Go up a slab and a thin crack to reach a roof. Tricky moves left around this lead to awkward bridging in a hanging groove - Gwaed goes left from here. Instead pull right past a flake - small wire. Beyond the terrain remains steep but the holds, once established, are positive and lead up to the next roof where Chwys breaches it. A cam in a flake above the roof gives confidence to rock out onto slabby terrain above and a ledge. Either belay here, or if you have successfully minimised rope drag, continue up to second pitch.
2) 4c 12m. Climb up to a ledge and follow the flake on the left which leads to the top as for Gwaed. © Rockfax

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