Rockfax Description
HVS. One of the original lines on the wall. It has good climbing, but sees few ascents and has some loose rock. Take a rack.1) to 3) 5+, 105m. As for Valencianos.4) 4+, 20m. Climb up a corner, then follow a ramp rightwards to a belay around an Arete.5) 4+, 20m. Follow the corner (peg) to a cave belay - threads.6) 5, 25m. Exit the cave to the right - high thread - then climb up a crack to a pedestal belay.7) 4, 25m. Climb the corner past some bushes to a belay (junction with Diedro UBSA).8) 4+, 35m. Climb the corner to gain the ridge. Easy rock leads from here to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
One of the original lines on the wall. It has good climbing but doesn't see much traffic. Some of the rock is loose. Take a rack.
1) to 3) 5+, 105m. As for Valencianos.
4) 4+, 25m. Climb up a corner then follow a ramp rightwards to a belay around an arete.
5) 4+, 25m. Follow the corner (peg) to a cave belay - threads.
6) 5, 20m. Exit the cave to the right - high thread - then climb up a crack to a pedestal belay.
7) 4, 25m. Climb the corner past some bushes to a belay.
8) 4+, 20m. Surmount the final bulge by bridging and continue to the ridge. Escape more easily to the summit path.
FA. Armand Ballard, J.M.Gonzalez 1979.
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Grade: 5c ***
(Penon de Ifach)