Rockfax Description
HVS. One of the original lines on the wall. It has good climbing, but sees few ascents and has some loose rock. Take a rack.
1) to 3) 5+, 105m. As for Valencianos.
4) 4+, 20m. Climb up a corner, then follow a ramp rightwards to a belay around an Arete.
5) 4+, 20m. Follow the corner (peg) to a cave belay - threads.
6) 5, 25m. Exit the cave to the right - high thread - then climb up a crack to a pedestal belay.
7) 4, 25m. Climb the corner past some bushes to a belay (junction with Diedro UBSA).
8) 4+, 35m. Climb the corner to gain the ridge. Easy rock leads from here to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
One of the original lines on the wall. It has good climbing but doesn't see much traffic. Some of the rock is loose. Take a rack.
1) to 3) 5+, 105m. As for Valencianos.
4) 4+, 25m. Climb up a corner then follow a ramp rightwards to a belay around an arete.
5) 4+, 25m. Follow the corner (peg) to a cave belay - threads.
6) 5, 20m. Exit the cave to the right - high thread - then climb up a crack to a pedestal belay.
7) 4, 25m. Climb the corner past some bushes to a belay.
8) 4+, 20m. Surmount the final bulge by bridging and continue to the ridge. Escape more easily to the summit path.

FA. Armand Ballard, J.M.Gonzalez 1979

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden ?? -
Jim blackford 19 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S With direct pitch 2. All hard moves have fixed gear . Route somewhat loose but still awesome. Couldn't find pitch 4 and lead loose chimney and traversed left through bushes to anchor. Me 1,2,4,6,8 George 3,5,7. Thought pitches were Severe, HVS + 5b, hvs - 5a, VS/HVS 4b/c, VS + 4c, VS + 4c, hs 4c , vs - 4b, diff
With direct pitch 2. All hard moves have fixed gear . Route somewhat loose but still awesome. Couldn't find pitch 4 and lead loose chimney and traversed left through bushes to anchor. Me 1,2,4,6,8 George 3,5,7. Thought pitches were Severe, HVS + 5b, hvs - 5a, VS/HVS 4b/c, VS + 4c, VS + 4c, hs 4c , vs - 4b, diff
KernowCrag 19 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S Well worth it. Local man with an ancient late 80s climbing book falling to bits said "this is important line" so we followed the route. 1) 3 second 2) 6a second 3) 5+ (Valencianos) lead 4) 4+ offroute chossy second 5) 5 lead 6) 5 second 7) 4+ lead 8) 4 second 9) Scrambled to finish. partially polished, Beautiful Route completed with backpack.
Well worth it. Local man with an ancient late 80s climbing book falling to bits said "this is important line" so we followed the route. 1) 3 second 2) 6a second 3) 5+ (Valencianos) lead 4) 4+ offroute chossy second 5) 5 lead 6) 5 second 7) 4+ lead 8) 4 second 9) Scrambled to finish. partially polished, Beautiful Route completed with backpack.
AndyCook 26 Nov, 2018 AltLd Seriously polished in many parts which makes this more of an undertaking than it should be
Seriously polished in many parts which makes this more of an undertaking than it should be
johnself1603 26 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Chris North
with Chris North
leemagowan 4 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S Recce
Recce
edmitchell 27 Mar, 2013 2nd O/S 8 pitches, with 6a+ variant, guidebook a little confusing, true line not shown on topo. Very polished despite not having much traffic according to guide. There were 5 parties on the route today, a Tuesday!
8 pitches, with 6a+ variant, guidebook a little confusing, true line not shown on topo. Very polished despite not having much traffic according to guide. There were 5 parties on the route today, a Tuesday!
ricky6386 9 Sep, 2010 AltLd dnf Very easy to get lost!!
Very easy to get lost!!
Will Gordon ?Mar, 2010 Lead O/S 8 pitches.
with Jose
8 pitches.
with Jose
Hidden ?Mar, 2010 2nd
Hidden 3 Apr, 2006 Solo O/S
Hidden 2 Dec, 2001 AltLd
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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 3
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set