Rockfax Description
A seven-pitch classic with atmospheric and intimidating climbing. Start midway between Costa Blanca and Diedro UBSA, under the centre of the huge pillar.1) 7a, 38m. Climb into a crumbly cave. Pull out right and up a leaning, compact wall. Easier climbing to a belay.2) 7a, 20m. Climb up past a rock scar, make a scary move leftwards onto a flake. Climb overlapped walls above to a belay.3) 6b+, 30m. Climb a worrying bulge, then easy ground to a big steep jamming/layback crack which leads to a belay.4) 6b+, 20m. A brilliant, technical and exposed hanging Arete leads to a belay on big ledge on top of the pinnacle.5) 5, 25m. Step down across the void to gain lovely, easy and smooth jamming cracks. A very pleasant respite.6) 6c+, 30m. A brilliant, big, overhanging pitch up a band of perfect rock. Make ever-steeper moves up the big corner to a tricky capping roof. Completely wild!7) 7a, 40m. Bolts lead left to a thread, but there are no holds. Reach left to clip a bolt on the wall, then top-rope to the thread and follow the thin corner above to easy ground and then the top. There may also be a higher method of doing the traverse. © Rockfax
FA. Roy de Valera, Miguel Cebrian 1999.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| GDes | 12 Sep, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Neil, I pulled off a massive block on the second pitch, about the same place you described. scary stuff! definitely disgree about the grading of those two pitches. pitch 1 is steady, pitch 2 definitely harder. As for the top pitch, going left on pockets was fine. seems the logical way to do it. What a pitch! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Neil, I pulled off a massive block on the second pitch, about the same place you described. scary stuff! definitely disgree about the grading of those two pitches. pitch 1 is steady, pitch 2 definitely harder. As for the top pitch, going left on pockets was fine. seems the logical way to do it. What a pitch! |
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| jamiev | 20 Jan, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 7 - I'm 5'6" and the drop to the pockets then up from there was fine and went at 7a. The big stretch looked harder. Pitch 6 and 7 are both fantastic and all in all an awesome route. I think 6c+ is accurate for pitch 2 and 7a+ is right for pitch 1; the hard move on pitch one can be dogged easily by grabbing the chain attached to the bolt which would make the first pitch 6c+. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pitch 7 - I'm 5'6" and the drop to the pockets then up from there was fine and went at 7a. The big stretch looked harder. Pitch 6 and 7 are both fantastic and all in all an awesome route. I think 6c+ is accurate for pitch 2 and 7a+ is right for pitch 1; the hard move on pitch one can be dogged easily by grabbing the chain attached to the bolt which would make the first pitch 6c+. |
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| Dan Arkle | 20 Jan, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: On Pitch 7 I tried dropping down into the pockets but couln't seem to get anywhere. I then made the big stretch accross to the thread at bolt height. I'm average height and it goes at 7a | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: On Pitch 7 I tried dropping down into the pockets but couln't seem to get anywhere. I then made the big stretch accross to the thread at bolt height. I'm average height and it goes at 7a |
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| Neil Foster | 11 Jan, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Ged, when I first did PP with Rod Valentine - New Years Day 1999 - there was still drill dust by the bolts, and we had no idea what route we were setting off up. When I finally saw a topo some years later, it showed a couple of points of aid on both the first and last pitches, though we had done both free. Rod led P2, and looked a bit ashen-faced when he encountered and enormous detached shield of rock, just before the scary moves left. I was so appalled by this potentially lethal rock that I made sure there was no-one below, and then pulled it all off by hand. Certainly impressed the droves of new years day punters strolling on the promenade as a shower of huge blocks bounced down the hillside towards them... When I repeated PP (via the Mia Estoy start) 2 years ago, the whole route had cleaned up a lot, with most of the poor rock long gone. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Ged, when I first did PP with Rod Valentine - New Years Day 1999 - there was still drill dust by the bolts, and we had no idea what route we were setting off up. When I finally saw a topo some years later, it showed a couple of points of aid on both the first and last pitches, though we had done both free. Rod led P2, and looked a bit ashen-faced when he encountered and enormous detached shield of rock, just before the scary moves left. I was so appalled by this potentially lethal rock that I made sure there was no-one below, and then pulled it all off by hand. Certainly impressed the droves of new years day punters strolling on the promenade as a shower of huge blocks bounced down the hillside towards them... When I repeated PP (via the Mia Estoy start) 2 years ago, the whole route had cleaned up a lot, with most of the poor rock long gone. |
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| GDes | 10 Jan, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: first bit of top pitch description is missin here for some reason? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: first bit of top pitch description is missin here for some reason? |
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| GDes | 26 Dec, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: thought the first pitch pretty steady with one short hard bit, and the second pitch desperate. Switch the grades round for these two pitches. The top two pitches are completely wild and utterly amazing, the top one having some pretty hard climbing. great adventure. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: thought the first pitch pretty steady with one short hard bit, and the second pitch desperate. Switch the grades round for these two pitches. The top two pitches are completely wild and utterly amazing, the top one having some pretty hard climbing. great adventure. |
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Clive's Redoubt
Grade: 7a ***
(Sierra de Toix)