220m, 10 pitches.

Rockfax Description
HVS. A classic expedition which takes the groove to a belay behind the pinnacle and then continues to reach the large cave high up. From here the route escapes leftwards by a spectacular abseil. The route is slightly spoilt by the looseness of the first few pitches. Depending on confidence/ability levels, take a small rack although all the hard sections are geared. Start left of the base of the groove by a large cactus bush.
1) -, 15m. Scramble (loose) to belay left of the base of the groove.
2) 4+, 30m. Climb awkwardly right to the groove, then up to a stance in a chimney.
3) 5, 20m. Continue bridging up the groove to a stance just before a harder section.
4) 5+, 35m. Another pitch up the corner.
5) 4, 30m. Move right onto a slab, then back left and climb up to a three-bolt belay on a jammed block behind the pinnacle.
6) 5+, 25m. Make a long move from the block to access the wall. Climb up into the base of the cave and a belay on the left. The groove to the right gives another option. Do not be tempted to climb up towards the tat visible high in the cave.
7) 8m down. Look round the left Arete to locate some bolts and use these to abseil to a ledge below, swinging slightly left, then move further left to a belay (on Les miserables).
8) 4, 30m. Traverse into the corner and move up to belay.
9) 4+, 35m. Climb the corner to gain the ridge. Easy rock leads from here to the summit. © Rockfax

FA. Luis Riguez, Jose Guerrero, Pedro Oliva 1960s 1965

Ticklists: Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes, The Big Easys, ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Costa Blanca 25 by 2025, Adventure ticklist 2018.

Steve Woollard 16/Jan AltLd
with Rich
Neverathome 10/Jan AltLd
with Mick Bailes
Hidden 27/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
spragglerocks 27/Dec/17 AltLd
with John
Hidden 26/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
Megan.richardson1 20/Dec/17 2nd O/S
Stanners 20/Dec/17 Lead O/S

all led! what a memorable long day of outragous punterness! Benighted as a team of 4 armed with one torch and a baguette. had a few moments on this, classic "it'll probably be alright attitude". Legendary! Defo a trad route which annoyed me a lot as I couldn't be bothered with all the serious run outs.

with Tom Bates, Ali C, Moment Meg
swmackey 03/Dec/17 Lead O/S
dmorgan27 28/Nov/17 Lead

Did first two pitches but was too hard for Clive and Terryl. One ab to floor. Second pitch is amazing although hard for 4+

with Terryl
Hidden 27/Nov/17 Lead O/S
morageagleson 27/Nov/17 2nd dog

Very polished!!

DanC1985 25/Nov/17 AltLd O/S
with Barney
topsyturvy 21/Nov/17 Lead O/S
with Pero
Paul Hy 21/Nov/17 AltLd dnf

It got too hot too quickly so bailed from top P1.

Pero 21/Nov/17 AltLd

Led even pitches. Excellent sustained climbing. Most pitches would be 5 or 5+ in my book. Pitches 2 and 9 are quite tasty for 4+.

Hidden 29/Oct/17 2nd O/S
Amy121 29/Oct/17 Lead
quickdrawmcraw 29/Oct/17 AltLd
with shoaib
TommyKips 20/Oct/17 AltLd O/S

Solo p1, Alt lead p2,4,6,7,8

Jonny Crean 14/Oct/17 AltLd
emma1987 19/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Done as Trad - HVS

with lukey13
lukey13 19/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Trad HVS except last 2 pitches. Even knowing to avoid the tat on pitch 6, I still couldn't resist....

with Emma :)
Mike Weatherill 06/Mar/17 AltLd
with Vicky Weatherill
Hidden 27/Feb/17 2nd
Jack00 20/Feb/17 Lead O/S

Led all pitches except top scramble to the summit.

with Fran, Rob, Kathryn
td72 14/Feb/17 Lead O/S

Good route, amazing position! don't really need trad gear. Took about 3 hours.

with Katie
katie93 14/Feb/17 2nd O/S
with Tom
Mark Eddy 08/Feb/17 Lead

1st & 2nd pitches are horribly loose, we almost bailed. But so glad we didn't as the rest of it is brilliant, with so much variety. The big chimney pitch felt precarious due to all the big blocks in there. The wall above this was great fun and quite tough, we ended up in the small cave (where all the tat is) then had a tricky move right to exit, this was exciting but safe. The abseil from the cave requires careful rope work and some forward planning as the belay is quite far over to the left (looking in). The final 2 pitches gave yet more fun, especially exiting from the final groove that is overhanging. Yes there's a lot of polish on it, but this eases with height, so don't be put off by the initial pitches. A grand day out.

with Kate
Hidden 08/Feb/17 2nd
Andy J Collins ?/Feb/17 -
with Rich Mayfield
Andy J Collins ?/Feb/17 -
with Rich Mayfield
razzle 10/Jan/17 AltLd

Led 2nd, 5th, 9th pitches. TC led other pitches.

Hidden 08/Jan/17 AltLd O/S
Katherine Ross 06/Jan/17 2nd O/S

Fantastic route and pretty wild in places! Fairly continuously steep and a bit polished in places. Also, pitch 9 as described here might prove challenging for the large!

Aminious 02/Jan/17 AltLd
with Jonny livesey
Kdk9788 02/Jan/17 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 3, 5, 7 and 9. Excellent climb!

metrorat 02/Jan/17 AltLd O/S

Great climb, perfect conditions

with Amy Wight
miguelporelmundo ??/2017 -
Robs_Uren 22/Dec/16 AltLd RP
Phil 21/Dec/16 Lead dnf

Lead until pitch 6 where we bailed off in the dark (oh the joys). Set off late, got held up mid route and ran out of light. Shame; would liked to have finished.

Hidden ?/Dec/16 Lead
MartinW92 ?/Dec/16 Lead dnf

Only managed pitches 1-5, climbed into tat in cave and bailed as sunlight was against us (2 pairs ascent)

the power 24/Nov/16 AltLd


with neil
Ardo 24/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Well cool. P2, P4, P6, P9 - Me. T'others the Power.

mjeffery 16/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
BushwackerBritz ?/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
with Thom Wright
josefft 31/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Soloed Pitch 1, led pitches 3, 5, 8. As others have mentioned, Rockfax description for pitch 6 is very ambiguous. We ended up going right of the cave in the end, some Spanish guys behind us seemed to traverse right over the the groove. Epic route though, could be done as a sport route if you have the head for run outs as the bolts are very sparse, worth taking a small rack to plug the gaps though.

with Arjun Menon
bobstones 14/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Ed Wigmore
Juan S 14/Oct/16 Lead

Ah, you meant this *was* the cave I wasn't meant to end up in? Uhps... Not sure this deserves top 50. The bottom half isn't anything to write home about. Chossy MacChossy Choss.

with Wei
Benjaminblanc 30/Sep/16 Lead O/S

What an adventure! Totally hungover and in the blistering heat, started out at midday. The Description on here is excellent, we however had the old guide and were completely tempted by the tat above the cave which added a spicy, loose, scary pitch to a higher abseil. If you are not solid on run-out, intimidating trad arounnd E1 then avoid, there are no bolts! Totally dehydrated by the abseil and loseing enthusiasm fast but had a wild fun amazing time on this route. Just be aware that this route has some seriously big loose blocks on many pitches. At the crux on the first 5+ pitch there is a massive block ready to go. Nice work Seema for leading that pitch! Perhaps an early night and an alpine start next time :)

with Seema
Nigel Bond 03/May/16 AltLd O/S
with Colin Hutton
saz_b 01/May/16 Lead O/S

Spectacular climbing, pitch after pitch of good or great climbing. The scramble set the adventure nature...p4 +5 in one as getting warm and belayed in shade of pinnacle. Went to lower hole in p5, threads and then runout to top. Climbing never gave up on final pitches. Great day out!

with Stephane
Luis SD 15/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/16 AltLd
Gary K Duke 12/Apr/16 2nd dog
Chriswallis2 04/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Heather UKC
readymaker 24/Mar/16 Lead O/S

excellent climbing with breathtaking views. there was a rope at the abseil anchor, but only in one(!) anchor, so we had to belay while abseiling. beware of the birds! ;-)

alastairbegley 23/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Great route. Took us 6 hours.

gingerbex 23/Mar/16 2nd O/S
philhilo 20/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Excellent route for experienced and solid at the grade folk.

with Helen E
gav 08/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

P1,2,4,6,9. Had the whole wall to ourselves, starting at 9.20 and topping out at 14.00. Despite knowing that the small cave was the wrong place to go, still ended up in there. IMO, this is because the line is non-obvious and the guidebook no help at all - referring only to that tat at the end of the passage and only mentioning one cave. As you pull onto the wall, above (~10m farther up?) is a small, person-sized, cave. The easy holds lead up to it stepping slightly right. On the right edge of the cave is a thread (currently with tat), and at the top of it a rusty bolt (with more tat). The easiest route (?) is to climb up to the bottom of this cave, clip the lower thread (extend), then traverse improbably right from here, level with the bottom of the cave, to the right, pulling into the top of the right hand chimney/bottom of the massive cave. From here it's an easy scramble to the belay. The second to last (F4) pitch also climbs much farther up the corner that the topo diagram suggests. The pitch length is about right at ~30m, so just keep going.

with Dave
dknibb 08/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 3, 5, and 8. Good fun and saw no other Climbers all day! Enjoyable abseil mid way up though felt strange to be traversing off the same anchor.

with Gavin
Hidden 03/Mar/16 AltLd
Hidden 25/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
carlh 21/Feb/16 AltLd rpt
mike fenwick ?/Feb/16 AltLd
Mick r 18/Jan/16 AltLd rpt

Great route. Lead pitch 3,5 and 8(last pitch). 5 hours

with Martin
Martin Haworth 18/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

A brilliant route, perfect weather, 5 hours.

with Mick r
judith neaves 03/Jan/16 2nd
jon_gill1 03/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

P1 solo,p2 me,p3 cl,p4 rg,p5 cl,p6 me,p7 me,p8 cl,p9 rg. Solo ridge to the top.fantastic day out!

with ross garfoot, chris Lyness
jon_gill1 03/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

P1 solo,p2 me,p3 cl,p4 rg,p5 cl,p6 me,p7 me,p8 cl,p9 rg. Solo ridge to the top.fantastic day out!

with ross garfoot, chris Lyness
Shaw Brown 03/Jan/16 Lead

Did the direct version of pitch 6, felt about 6a+. Though a bit out of character with the rest of the route it is a great variation.

PAJames ??/2016 -
walts4 ??/2016 -
Rachel S 31/Dec/15 Lead O/S
with Bern
BernNolan 31/Dec/15 TR dog
with Rachel
Hidden 29/Dec/15 AltLd
Hidden 29/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
Darren Vincent 23/Dec/15 AltLd dnf

Backed off after 2nd pitch. Polished!

with Lucy
pearson9596 14/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
with Kat G-B, Dave Brock
KittyKat 14/Dec/15 AltLd

It said "don't get tempted to go into the cave" for a good reason....Lead P4 and P8

with Michael Pearson, Dave Brock
Hidden 14/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
onlyfoddington 14/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

I was very wobbly on my first pitch (5) and then much more confident on my second pitch (5+). I subsequently realise I went off route, into the cave, and made a good effort to get out again, which proved to be unnecessary. Lovely place to climb.

with Kat, Michael
Hidden 09/Dec/15 Lead dnf
louisnewman 30/Nov/15 AltLd
Zoomer 26/Nov/15 AltLd dnf

Bailed off after the first two pitches, stuck behind a very slow team who appeared incapable of building a sound belay....on bolts, scary stuff.

with A Student
Big_T 25/Nov/15 2nd O/S
superturbo 20/Nov/15 AltLd
guy127917 18/Nov/15 AltLd
with Will
Paul Hy 15/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Lead every pitch. Awesome, Say no more!

with Gary C
Garnham 15/Oct/15 AltLd
MoWalker3 05/Oct/15 -

Derek being hit by lumbago on 1st pitch, with his 72 years of experience decided to pushed on. Brilliant. Sorry for the small cave variation pitch!

with Derek Carter
mikestr555 30/Apr/15 AltLd

lead pitches 2,4,6,9

barn owl 22/Apr/15 AltLd
with simon Rackley
barn owl 21/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with simon Rackley
mark4344 13/Apr/15 AltLd rpt

Attacked and shat on by seagulls on walk in and first pitch.

with derek
Hidden 10/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Simon Rackley ?/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with andy barnes
Sam2257 30/Mar/15 AltLd dog

A mini epic! started way too late in day plus some poor route finding meant we finished in the dark via the wrong route. lead p1,3,5,6,8 & 9 (p8 & 9 CM). 1st 5 pitches straight forward if a little polished and runout - definitely need a bit of trad gear. made a poor decision at start of p6 to traverse into the chossy chimney to the right instead of going straight up as start of p6 was so polished and sweaty in the sun - ended up with horrible rope drag! p7 abseil took longer than needed, then could not find the start of p8 so instead took the unknown line of bolts straight up (turned out to be the excellent Costa Miserables 6b+, two superb pitches of climbing). topped out in the dark to the sound of feral cats. marvellous.

Scott Quinn 27/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
Tom.Priestley 25/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Came to do Costa Blanca but another team was on it so we did this instead. Took a couple of pebbles in our pockets as we had no trad gear. A few decent runouts but otherwise ok. Polished.

duzinga 13/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Went up to the tat in the small cave, the climbing seemed cleaner and more enjoyable that way.

with MTV
martintv 13/Mar/15 2nd dog
with Tuze
darrenpp ?/Mar/15 AltLd
UnkArl 06/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

P1, 3, 5, 6, 8, 9 me P2, 4, 7 - Bill Start of scramble 08:37am Start of route 09:03am Top out 15:50pm As others have commented, the wording for Pitch6 is ambiguous. It should read more like: "6) 5+, 25m. Make a long move from the block to access the wall. Do not be tempted to climb up towards the tat visible high in the SMALL cave. Follow the bolts up and slightly right then head right into the groove. Climb up into the base of the LARGE cave and a belay on the left." If you do end up at the tat in the small cave then exiting it left and up and then back right into the large cave is more like f6b.

with Uncle Bill, Dad
Hidden 21/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
mes32 12/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Brilliant! Led pitches 2/3/4/6/9 (4+/5/5+/5+/4+). Steep and sustained, hard for HVS, very polished, medium cams needed. The guidebook description for pitch 6 is ambiguous - it talks about the belay cave, then in the very next sentence says 'don't climb to the tat visible high in the cave'. This is NOT referring to the belay cave, but in fact to a completely different smaller cave on the actual pitch. Clearly everyone does end up there so the description needs re-wording - exiting the cave at the tat was pretty hard (?6b). Great route though!

with Sally
Peter Metcalfe 28/Dec/14 Lead
tompilgrem 27/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
with Dad
bobpilgrem 27/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

Great Route.

with Tom
Hidden 24/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Dec/14 - 10/Dec/14 AltLd
with Graham
therat 02/Dec/14 AltLd
JoelO ?/Dec/14 Lead O/S
with Anne
scottyskier82 02/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing day out! Great views and a brilliant cave for having lunch

with Ben Brierley
Braintax ?/Nov/14 AltLd

Interesting climbing at the grade... Messed around on the approach to the (big) cave, didn't climb up to the small cave below (with tat) and moved right into chimney - doesn't feel right but goes and I think that's how it should be done. Take some nuts, particularly if not comfortable at the grade.

bensimons ?/Nov/14 AltLd dog
shaunnorfolk ?/Nov/14 AltLd β
Hidden 16/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
nb148 16/Oct/14 AltLd

Found the route a little difficult to follow due to lack of bolts. Easy but extremely polished climbing, not many bolts at all so recommend taking a set of nuts, maybe a cam or two. Struggled on the abseil as you can't see where you're descending to, plus a sketchy traverse along a sloping ledge to the next bolts. We waited for another pair to descend first so we knew where to go. All in all with the hanging around took 9.5 hours, 9:00-18:30

with Kim Caldwell
Hidden 04/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
carlh 02/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

A truely fantastic route. Climbed with John Makin. Every pitch is interesting and enjoyable and was thankfully in the shade for the most part. We were going off the old Rockfax guidebook (which gives some confusing info from the cave) We climbed up 25m to what I imagine is the old belay, before abseiling down to the ledge below. This was the only chossy pitch and if I was to do it again I would just abseil the 8 meters from the cave (as described in the new guide book). Nice to get an additional pitch in though! Other than this, we didn't find the route finding difficult and didn't find it very polished. We carried a small rack, which was more than adequate. One of the most enjoyable routes that I have climbed in Spain and one that I will definitely repeat!

gdjcoleman ?/Oct/14 Lead

Lead every pitch with the 6a variation through the small cave

with Joe begley, Simon
HP9 29/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Quite polished and exposed in places

with Mark Hayes
leeds_belle 20/May/14 AltLd

Lead P2 & P4 as described in the Rockfax guide. Tried to lead P6 but made the fatal mistake of heading for the bit of tat in the cave. Should have traversed right much earlier.

with Will
Hidden 23/Apr/14 2nd dnf
Hidden 16/Apr/14 AltLd
s.scott 16/Apr/14 AltLd

Climbed with neuromancer, got lost and finished up Los Miserables

mikestr555 27/Mar/14 AltLd

group of 5 one three and a two lead pitch 4 finished at top of pitch 5 run out of day light pitch two was very hard for a 4+

Private Flounder 12/Feb/14 AltLd
Chris Manasseh 12/Feb/14 AltLd

Led pp 2,4,6+9

mathematically safe 06/Feb/14 -
Justin T 20/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Overrated imho, I particularly disliked the run out pitch of chimney swimming up fridge sized blocks that may or may not be held in with mud. May be easy climbing but lots of potential for things to go badly wrong.

with Nancy
saaruli 24/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
with Erik
Hidden 24/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
John Pickles 18/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
John Pickles 18/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Dec/13 Lead
jcooper8 12/Dec/13 Lead O/S
Powney 05/Dec/13 2nd dnf
with Drew
Hidden ?/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
birks3746 ?/Dec/13 AltLd

Everything that could go wrong...oh well, epics make the best stories

with Alice Browne
adamsandy1 29/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Multi Pitch

Tom Phillips 25/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

superb - quite polished in places, but still a classic!

with leo
Leofallon 25/Nov/13 AltLd

Easy enough climbing, very airy [and polished] in places, particularly the abseil. Delighted we did it after so many shorter climbs on Costa Blanca

HappyTrundler 22/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Fantastic day out, although was up it in less than 6 hours. Could get away without taking any wires, there is enough fixed gear, at most half a dozen medium to large wires would suffice. One thing, wear some comfortable all day rock shoes. Superb adventure.

with Irish Pete
Hidden 18/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Caroline 2010 06/Nov/13 AltLd dnf

Got half way up the second pitch, hard within the grade, could have done with a bit of extra trad gear.

ElBarto 06/Nov/13 2nd O/S

Partner was having real problems leading the first two pitches so we backed off before completing pitch two due to lost time. I seconded pitch one and lead half of pitch two after Caroline backed off to retrieve my gear, left a shackle on the second built I think.

martin one 06/Nov/13 Lead O/S

great route

with Lucy
Wildstyle 06/Nov/13 AltLd dog

lead the first and final pitch, found everything in between hard. Lots of pulling up on your arms.

Hidden 26/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Oct/13 2nd O/S
2010_graham 22/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
How easy 21/Oct/13 AltLd

With mike and mark and the whole crag to ourselves

TwoChimes 21/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
with Davy H
stonemikey 21/Oct/13 AltLd

Absolute classic. Climbed as a group of three in 7.5 hours, with the entire crag to ourselves. Climbing is consistently good throughout, well worth 3* in my opinion.

with Stu Howie, Mark Ward
Hidden 07/Oct/13 2nd
DrJon 07/May/13 2nd O/S
with Henry, John
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/13 AltLd
gsavell 15/Mar/13 Lead dnf

Found pitch 2 a little too scary with spaced bolts. Used lots of gear to get almost to the top but bottled out and abbed off... maybe next year!

with Sarah Knight
Stone Muppet 14/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
with jg, md
Binder 09/Jan/13 AltLd dnf

Abbed off top of p2. Looks awesome.

with Dave J
andybroadway 28/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
andrew549 19/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
with Pos
RKirke 18/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
josh Bamsey 18/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
TiffTiff 18/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
with Jo Davison
mikespooner 16/Dec/12 AltLd
Hidden 16/Dec/12 AltLd
Jonathan Emett 13/Dec/12 AltLd O/S

Lead 2,4,9. Every pitch really good, I preferred this to Costa Blanca.

with orange sam
Bisteris 14/Nov/12 2nd O/S
with Andy Newton
Marti999 05/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Great adventure. Every belay has new double ring bolts now.

with Debbie
debbie roberts 05/Nov/12 2nd
chris smith 31/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Jim Brownlow 24/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Rampikino 12/Apr/12 Lead

Just over 6 hours. Good climbing.

with Cat
Hidden 11/Apr/12 AltLd dnf
Hidden 11/Apr/12 AltLd dnf
Mario Grabinski 11/Apr/12 AltLd
with Allan Gil
Hidden 02/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Lev 02/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
jon clayton ?/Apr/12 AltLd
with sasha
richsmithinbristol ?/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

No trad gear used

cheeky 23/Mar/12 AltLd O/S


with Dale Knox
Richard P Coates 16/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Soloed pitch 1, lead pitches 4, 6, 10

elCapitano 16/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Good route. Well bolted as only run out on easy sections. Rack not necessary if confident at the grade. Great intro to Penon. 4 hours.

with Coatesy
Steve Waters, Mynydd 13/Feb/12 AltLd

Very cold morning so snoozed amongst the cacti beneath the route until the sun came round. Nobody else around. Took a rack of nuts 3-11 plus a couple of hexs and a few slings and glad of them. Led P1,3,5,8 and 10. (Mike strung P6&7 together). Highlights were the start of P3 (bolted, thankfully), the last section of P4 (an exciting wake-up call for what was to come), all of P6 (especially the reachy moves up to the bolt from the jammed block and most of P9 and 10. Made a meal of the abseil which didn't turn out to be as difficult as it looked - make sure the first one down has a means of locking off the abseil (e.g. prusik) but it all came good in the end. Tabby cats instead of Barbery apes greeted us on the summit. Relaxing descent. Rewarded ourselves with beer and paella at the harbour. A memorable day. Back next year to tackle the 6b+ version of Costa Blanca climb.

mtempest 13/Feb/12 AltLd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 01/Dec/11 AltLd
Hidden 19/Nov/11 2nd
LukeyG ?/Oct/11 AltLd
Rowan Mitchell 30/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Pitch 4: Alan decided to go off route on the left crack (we both found this hard). Pitch 7 and 8: I climbed up to look for anchors but didn't like the look of it all. Instead, we used the abseil to the left and traversed across to the anchors below. Took 5 hours

Josh Dickerson ?/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Andy Dickerson
LittleLuka 04/May/11 2nd

Amazing climbing!

with Alison, Andy
krasavenko 03/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

well... it was a great adventure, most climbing was nice, having lunch in a cave was awesome and the view from the top was amazing! but getting confused by the rockfax description meant we had 13 belays, went a bit of route and as a result ended up doing what felt like 6b moves to get out of the 2 small caves below the large one. note to self - go very far right after the pinnacle!

Triggalicious 03/Apr/11 AltLd
Lev 02/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/11 AltLd
tmawer 25/Mar/11 AltLd rpt
with andrea
kelly_426 ?/Mar/11 AltLd
with Sasha Doyle
Hidden ?/Mar/11 AltLd
mick1jones 24/Feb/11 AltLd dog

Led last 2 pitches

with Ellin, Dave
Hidden ?/Feb/11 -
Hidden 30/Jan/11 Lead
khmhau 04/Jan/11 Lead O/S

basically lead the whole thing except pitch 3 maybe? the 4+

with Nick Barrow
tomhennigan 03/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Lead every pitch clean, was an epic day! Note to self, Anasazis are NOT comfortable all day shoes!

with Jamie Parkin
Jo Davison 03/Jan/11 AltLd O/S


with Ed Searle
Tom Downes 03/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

scamble pitch 1 no ropes. Lead pitch 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10

with Luke Fuggle
Hidden 01/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
marcb 01/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Probably the most memorable climb of my life to date

Hidden ??/2011 -
Robin Head 30/Dec/10 Lead rpt

not as good as the first time, experience is cool but climbing itself is mediocore. çwe also got benighted as we were stuck behind a really slow group of 3 so we had to do the last 3-4 pitches in the pitch black.

with Jen
JenDurden 30/Dec/10 2nd β

What an adventure! First multi-pitch, first abseil and first benightment!

with Robin
Hidden 30/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
Ugly Kid Jo 15/Dec/10 2nd

Definitely not to be undertaken lightly. The climbing is powerful and hard work. Definitely need to take a rack.

with Dan
dan ely 04/Dec/10 AltLd dog

i fell on p6- so polished 2 moves desperate

with christian the german
Hidden 16/Nov/10 AltLd
andeeeee 04/Nov/10 2nd

Took forever after having to wait for a bunch of 3 Finnish guys that carried on up where they should have abseiled and came back down when the realised their error. Take plenty of fluids and get their early to catch the worm!!

with Nick Read
Hidden ?/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
barney_edin 21/Oct/10 AltLd
with Sue G
Andy Fielding 18/Oct/10 AltLd
Sandrex 18/Oct/10 AltLd

Fantastic day. Longest day climbing ever. Approx 8 hours. Memories will last forever.

Mike Weatherill 11/Oct/10 Lead rpt
Seb31 ?/Aug/10 AltLd
chri55ie 09/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches. Got the rope stuck on the abseil.

with Tom Taylor
samcook 30/Mar/10 2nd

Started about 9am. Got to the top about 11pm so climbed the last pitch in the dark! Good climb, a bit of everything: laybacks, traverses, chimney/cave, and an abseil.

with Alex Higgs, Luke Randall
lrandall 30/Mar/10 Lead O/S

At 13 hrs from start to finish this turned into a bit of an epic! Nothing went wrong, just very slow going as a team of three, plus we got stuck behind a pair who got well and truly stuck on the crux pitch so we had to go and offer assistance. Lead all pitches except pitch 2. Some brilliant climbing, not always well protected. Definately comparable to HVS as in Rockfax.

with Sam Cook, Alex
Matt Smith 27/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 3, 5 and 9. Didn't take any trad gear with us, but found that you didn't really need it, though might be nice to have some on piches 2 and 3 as very spaced bolts! Overall time of 4 and a quarter hours starting at 9am. Get there early as queues later.

Amy Horton 26/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Robin Head 26/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1,4,6,7 and 10 Did not have any Trad gear on us, did not need any. Sometimes the bolts were a bit spaced but those parts where generally straight forward. Only confusing bit: The belay at the bottom of the cave is really in the right hand corner of the bottom of the cave (actually a belay of another route) we did not use it, but it caused a lot of rope drag! General advise: Take a camelbak with you it is very warm up there! start early to avoid queing took us 6 hours no headtorches required.

martinp 20/Mar/10 AltLd

Started at 10. Finished at 8

with Dave S and Alan C
mrstarwarsman ?/Mar/10 AltLd

fantastic climb! forgot how "adventurously bolted" it was

erica 03/Feb/10 -

Great route, perfect weather. Led pitches 2 and 4

with John
John Brayshaw 03/Feb/10 Lead O/S

Big route, big day, big smile

with Erica
seeroo 21/Jan/10 2nd O/S
with Scone
Hidden ??/2010 -
ASchwirtz 31/Dec/09 Lead O/S

Lead pitch 3 (5+), 5 (4), 6 (5+), 7 (Scramble), 8 (ab seil), 9 (4), 10 (4+) Seconded pitch 2 (4+), 4 (5) Soloed pitch 1 (Scramble)

with Ian Bruce
tommyzero 20/Dec/09 Lead RP

A brilliant route but as others have stated you may need more than a light rack (and headtorches) to ensure a good day out! We took just one set of nuts and a size 4 cam, lots of threads and enough quickdraws so that we could discard a few enroute. It's also a good idea to make sure you've got Alex and Chip climbing above you to show you the way down when you top out in the dark. Thanks guys. Tommy lead 1st, 3rd, 5th, 7th, 8th (abseil), 9th (dusk) and 10th (very dark). Sir Rich lead 2nd, 4th and 6th

with Sir Rich Mc Rich
alexrafferty1986 20/Dec/09 Lead O/S

Fantastic route, made it into a really relaxing day taking in the sun at the belays, shortly after our afternoon siesta in the cave we decided to get a move on!!! Superb climbing with great positions. This is not a sport route (hence the HVS in the guidebook)! Took a set of nuts and 4 cams BD .5, .75, 1, and red, you may not use that much gear, but its definately worth having to make the route more enjoyable. Arrived at the car in good time, the pair that set off behind us didn't take HEADTORCHES and may have needed some assistance on the way down, eh Chris and Rich, thanks for the beers!! Checklist: Nuts 1-10, Cams 4, 15 Quickdraws to be safe and Headtorches!! Abseil bolts are left of belay bolts on the face to the left of the cave (peer out), dont climb up to the tat in the cave. Enjoy

with Chip Rafferty
Mattzx6r 04/Dec/09 AltLd

Extended pitch 5 to the stance on top of the pinnacle. From there went straight up, via a tricky move escaping right from a small cave below the main cave, to the abseil stance. The 'large clump of tat' mentioned in the old guide for abseiling, has happily been replaced with double bolts. A few cams and a set of nuts were useful but not essential. Matt, P1&2, P4, Mod P6, P8. Stu, P3, P5 (To Pinnacle), Abseil, P9

with Stu
sonic46 04/Dec/09 2nd
with Stu, Pete Collins, Matt Page
rilem 16/Nov/09 -

6.5 Hrs climbing. Suggest a bit more than a 'light rack' unless you are very confident. Don't confuse it with a sports grade 5. Double bolt belays and ab rings on all pitches. Sparsely bolted on pitches except on the tricky bits. Description / topo is confusing around the cave / abseil pitches. Double bolt belay at top of P7 is at lower left side of the cave - don't be tempted to scramble up to the top of the cave. Lean out over the void and look left for double bolt ab point - big bunch of ab tat has been removed. Brilliant experience.

with Rog S
Adderbury Climber ?/Nov/09 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Nov/09 Lead
Hidden 23/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
sgl 21/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with mallard and ben
ThomasB ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with El Nic
chri55ie 19/Apr/09 AltLd

Lead pitches 2 and 4

with Alan Gill
Mike Weatherill 16/Apr/09 Lead rpt
MonkeyDawson 31/Mar/09 Lead
Hidden 13/Mar/09 AltLd dog
Creation Climbing Centre ?/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Ian Gee
DavidR 02/Jan/09 AltLd O/S

3 hours 20 minutes. Followed by Via Valancianos in the afternoon! Pitch 1 - Hol; Pitch 2 - Hol; Pitch 3 - Dave; Pitch 4 - Hol; Pitch 5 - Dave; Pitch 6 - Hol; Pitch 7 - Hol; Pitch 8 - ab; Pitch 9 - Hol; Pitch 10 - Dave.

Hidden 02/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jan/09 Lead
Hidden 02/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
CathS 02/Jan/09 AltLd dnf

Got a little over-confident after cruising up 4+ and 5 sports routes all week, and bit off more than I could chew with this one. Hard, thuggish, thrutchy climbing on horribly polished rock and sparse bolts. Couldn't overcome the crux on my lead on pitch 2 (which felt like the harder end of VS), so ended up setting up a belay in a somewhat precarious position mid-pitch to bring Dave up to finish it off for me. I then struggled to second it, getting totally pumped. Decided we'd rather not have a complete epic and abbed off from the top of pitch 2, to my great relief. Spent the rest of the day quietly sporting a thousand-yard stare.... Grading (and by all accounts the topos) in the old Cicerone Costa Blanca Rock Guide appears more accurate than the new RockFax guide. Dave would have romped up it given a more equally matched partner.

with Dave Clark
duncan 31/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
staceyjg 31/Dec/08 2nd

Also climbed with Hannah Bostrom. Unfortunately, this route was beyond me, only my 2nd multipitch route of such proportions. Hating every second of the 2nd pitch my partner made the wise choice of retreating before the climb became a major epic for me. Shook my confidence a fair amount and have vowed to attempt some more multipitch moutain routes in the future.

al99 29/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

Only climbed to the top of pitch 6 and then found ourselves confused by the abseil description in the guide book. Backed off as time was getting tight. Great route though with loads of charachter.

martinazando 28/Dec/08 AltLd
Lauren Davies 17/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
with Crazy Tom
TonyP 12/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Boggy
funsized ?/Dec/08 Lead O/S

On arriving at the cave, did not see ab lower off, and instead climbed the left side of the cave, and ab'd of the most horrible bit of rusty tat I have ever used (complemented by stunning 200m drop). spotted lower off on way down and chalked it up to a very important life lesson (whilst wetting myself about current lower off). Very relieved to get away with that one.

mrstarwarsman ?/Dec/08 AltLd

shat my pants and had 2 7m falls. Worth it!

Tom Downes ?/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
with steven mayer
MikaelW 22/Nov/08 2nd dnf

too tired to finish! did half the route, enough to convince me to go back to climbing after 10 year break :-)

with Keegan
jamie ward 05/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
with Luke Rooker
Mr Tickle 05/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
with Martyn Eales
Hidden ?/Sep/08 AltLd
Christian Reynish 11/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch, Daf led the rest

DafSWMC 11/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

Chris led 1st pitch. Led the rest. 6.5 hours. Amazing route for the grade. "Big", thrutchy, exposed climbing. Route description is now inaccurate. 3. Don't go past possible stance on large ledge, but use it. 5. Carry on past shady spot behind pinnacle to 3BB on top of jammed block. 6. Believe I went too far right here, to smooth crack of "Puto" at same grade. Should go straight up wall to belay on 2BB at bottom left of cave. Ab station out on front face on left. 7+8. Ab down to ledge, using tufa to assist traverse over to 3BB. (With hindsight should have just threaded the ab station, and lowered to ledge and traversed over to farthest BB on ledge.) 9. Traverse about 10m into corner, then continue right up past large thread and large spiky bush to 3BB below final corner.

Hidden 26/Jan/08 2nd dog
Peter Metcalfe 25/Jan/08 AltLd

Got rope stuck on ab out of cave, had to descend to ledge below Pinnacle, traverse across to Piratas and continue up two pitches of that and the rest of Diedro UBSA. Things started getting a bit fraught as darkness fell.

with David Jones
CarolineH 04/Jan/08 AltLd
with Neil
KeithW 04/Jan/08 AltLd O/S

Perfect rock, route, weather, climbing, company, scenery... a route so good I giggled to myself on the belays and shouted to anyone who'd listen as I pulled up the cracks. A day to keep me warm through this season's shivering belays & abandoned Scottish days. Superb.

with Corky
Phil PBC ??/2008 -
SteveM 30/Dec/07 AltLd O/S
with Kat
laurent 30/Dec/07 AltLd O/S

Bolted. Placed one nut on the first pitch though.

kitkat78 30/Dec/07 AltLd O/S

Fab climbing with exposed positions. 4.5 hours. Led evens.

with SteveM
Hidden 27/Dec/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Dec/07 AltLd
jh5638 18/Dec/07 Lead O/S
with Ian Gould
Hidden ?/Dec/07 -
cat22 ?/Dec/07 AltLd O/S
with Mike
haydng 17/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Rachel
Hidden 06/Nov/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Oct/07 2nd β
gjd 01/May/07 AltLd
with Joe
climbingrick 29/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

All but 2 pitches, fantastic route with an exposed absail.

steven ?/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Brian Hull
Julie Carroll ?/Mar/07 2nd
with Rich Mayfield
Hidden 28/Jan/07 AltLd
Hidden 25/Dec/06 Lead dnf
trevor macalonan 25/Dec/06 Lead dnf
dave o ?/Dec/06 AltLd O/S

a far far better route than via valencious

with James R
pauelo 12/Nov/06 AltLd O/S
with Carles Sol?s
Hidden 10/Nov/06 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench 31/Oct/06 AltLd O/S
with Martina
Simon Allcock ?/Oct/06 AltLd
with nick
Darragh ?/Sep/06 AltLd

Amazing day out.

BobbyH 07/Apr/06 AltLd dog

Only took 7.5 hours!

with NI
Sankey 25/Mar/06 AltLd O/S

If you have been sport cragging, prepare to be surprised by how thrutchy a lot of this is!

with Luke
Rich A-Wilkes 24/Mar/06 AltLd O/S

Amazing route! Fabulous climbing, views and position! The route that has it all!

with Dale
Hidden 09/Mar/06 Lead O/S
thebigfriendlymoose ?/Mar/06 AltLd O/S

Lead: P3 (5+); second half of P4 (5); P6 (5+); P10 (4+).

with Stephen
Al Evans 18/Jan/06 2nd
Chris the Tall 18/Jan/06 Lead O/S

Al led first pitch and 4th (4) - can't remember how many we took, but it was 6:30 when we finished and 8:30 by the time we got down. Going wrong after the pinacle didn't help

ross1983 05/Jan/06 Lead O/S

Very committing, good gear and great views!

with Nick Heasman
andy jennings ?/Jan/06 AltLd O/S
mikelaing ??/2006 -
King Rat ??/2006 -
HansStuttgart ??/2006 -

Great route

will_benfold ?/Dec/05 AltLd O/S

I think I led the odd-numbered pitches.

with Tom G
Will Gordon ?/Dec/05 Lead O/S

10 pitches.

with Laurence Hooper
Fat Tim ?/Dec/05 2nd O/S
with Rob McGregor
Hidden 22/Oct/05 AltLd
Shaw Brown 25/Apr/05 AltLd
with simon blythe
Ramon Marin 24/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
with Gavin Lim
Hidden 02/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
Mike Weatherill 24/Feb/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Feb/05 2nd
Hidden 16/Feb/05 2nd
Robbie H 03/Jan/05 Lead O/S

Chris v. tired after crack climbing. Tricky pendulum abseil from the cave - prussik?

with Chris Wright
chris warner ?/Dec/04 Lead
with lewi williams
Hidden ?/Oct/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Mar/04 AltLd
hal ?/Mar/04 -
Hidden ?/Mar/04 AltLd O/S
Kyuzo ?/Mar/04 AltLd RP
with Bernard Lam
Hidden 25/Jan/04 AltLd
Al Evans 09/Jan/04 AltLd
Mark Stevenson 09/Jan/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2004 -
dannyboy83 ?/Dec/03 AltLd O/S

Being one of our 1st multipitches, it was the obligatory epic. Carrying enough crap with us we could survive a nuclear winter, we took far too long and was overtaken by 2 spanish dudes dressed only in pants.

with Ian Lovatt
Spillers ?/Oct/03 AltLd
with Randy
DavidR 28/Apr/03 AltLd O/S

7.5 hours

with Jemma Wadham
Mark Collins 19/Mar/03 AltLd O/S
with Gavin Hetherington
Mark Riley ?/Mar/03 AltLd O/S

Stuart & Hen

karly54 ??/2003 AltLd O/S
with Peter Goodwin
csalvage 14/Oct/02 AltLd

with Susanna. Repeat of 8/11/99 with Jack

with Bryan
Hidden 09/May/02 AltLd O/S
Martin Bennett 25/Apr/01 -
with Phil
cem 31/Mar/01 AltLd O/S

Led p 3, 4, 6 & 10. Took a long fall near top of p6 when a handhold snapped

with Sally Dipple
Hidden ??/2001 AltLd
dan gibson ?/Nov/00 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
Hidden ?/Oct/00 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/00 AltLd rpt
Hidden 13/Apr/00 AltLd O/S
dickypips ?/Feb/00 2nd
with john richards
Tenko 27/Apr/99 AltLd
with John Hine
tjekel ??/1999 -
King Rat ??/1999 AltLd O/S
with A
Hidden ?/Nov/98 AltLd
Hidden ??/1998 AltLd O/S
lost.arrow 27/Dec/96 Lead
with Phil Clough
craig h 12/Apr/96 AltLd O/S
with Janet Hannah
brianrunner 11/Mar/96 AltLd

this is a great route. Martina and I have done it 3 times over the years

with steve wells, martina
Hidden ?/Dec/95 AltLd
EddieA ?/Nov/95 AltLd O/S

Fun adventure

with Simon W
Mick r 05/Mar/95 AltLd rpt
with Jim Kirkwood
John Andrew Simpson ??/1995 AltLd O/S

I led a couple of easy pitches Dave took the rest.

with Dave Wilson
OMSKB ?/Dec/93 Lead
Budge ?/Feb/93 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
Mick King 21/Jan/93 AltLd

Lead Ps 1 3 5 7 & 9

with Pete Hankinson
Hidden 05/Jan/93 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/92 AltLd
freeheel47 ??/1992 AltLd
steve taylor ?/Dec/91 AltLd
with stumpy
wynaptomos ?/Mar/87 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Jan/87 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1980 -
42 users have this on their wishlist
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 97
Votes cast 100
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set