80m, 2 pitches.
This route is situated on the left of the first grassy gully right of the prominent groove of Black Magic. Start in the corner capped by the overhang.
1) 44m (5b). Climb the awkward crack on the left wall of the corner to good holds at 20m. Climb the steep corner crack passing a rocking but secure block to an overhang. Step right and up to a small belay ledge (good nut 3m above).
2) 36m (6a). Climb up to a band of overhangs, climb these and trend slightly left and straight up (about 2m right of a blank corner) to a second overhang (rest nut used above the overhang). From just above the overhang step left (with great difficulty) into a corner and continue up the crack to a layback corner. Climb this to a good jug, stand on the jug (difficult), continue more easily to the top.
1) 44m (5b). Climb the awkward crack on the left wall of the corner to good holds at 20m. Climb the steep corner crack passing a rocking but secure block to an overhang. Step right and up to a small belay ledge (good nut 3m above).
2) 36m (6a). Climb up to a band of overhangs, climb these and trend slightly left and straight up (about 2m right of a blank corner) to a second overhang (rest nut used above the overhang). From just above the overhang step left (with great difficulty) into a corner and continue up the crack to a layback corner. Climb this to a good jug, stand on the jug (difficult), continue more easily to the top.
K Murphy, T Ryan 25/Sep/1982.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JonahB | 5 Sep, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Gave second pitch a bit of a clean July '23. Bottom pitch could do with a clean, especially the start. Brilliant route | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Gave second pitch a bit of a clean July '23. Bottom pitch could do with a clean, especially the start. Brilliant route |
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Route of Interest
Waist Deep in Alligators
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Fair Head)