425m, 13 pitches.

Rockfax Description
HS. At the top of the scree slope, locate a painted name on the rock 'Esp Central' - there are 2 painted names about 30m apart, the right-hand is the correct one to use. This painted name indicates the direct start.
1) 3+, 30m. From the right-hand painted name move up easily, to the left of a very smooth brown shield of rock, then belay beneath a long corner.
2) 4+, 30m. Climb up the corner, then move up and left onto the arete. Climb the arete (pegs) to a belay at a bolt and peg.
3) 3, 30m. Continue directly up grooves to a big ledge and trees on the left (this ledge is the point at which the Quick Start joins the route).
4) 3+, 40m. Move right a few metres from the big ledge and climb awkwardly up past a sapling at 3m. Continue up corners and cracks and move right to a belay.
5) 1, 12m. Walk/scramble right to belay on the ridge next to a small sapling sticking out horizontally from the rock.
6) 4, 20m. Climb the face of the arete to a ledge, and a peg belay just up and right of a large tree.
7) 4, 45m. Follow the cracks and arete to a good ledge.
8) 4+, 40m. Traverse left to the foot of a crack/groove. Take this with interest to easier ground and a large ledge and tree. A good spot for lunch.
9) 1, 8m. Move up and right a short distance to belay beneath the steep, crack-seamed wall © Rockfax

FA. J.Roig, C.Torregrosa, M.Gascon 1965

Ticklists: Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!), Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List, Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes, The Big Easys, ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Memorable Climbs, Costa Blanca 25 by 2025.


ClimberDateStyle
Pero 20/Nov AltLd

Led even pitches, not counting the two short linking pitches. About 6 hours climbing and 9 hours in total.

buxtoncoffeelover 10/Nov AltLd

Again!! So much fun I did it twice in 2 days! (with different partners). Did the pitches I didn't lead yesterday (Paul led P2, 4, 7, 8, 9/10 & 12; I led P1, 3, 5/6, 11 & 13)

Handsforfeet 10/Nov AltLd

Great day. Started at sunrise & walked off at dusk. Lead p2, p4, p7, p8, p9, p10 & p12

with Nik
buxtoncoffeelover 09/Nov AltLd

A wonderful November day out. Lovely climbing in a splendid setting. Dave led P1, 3, 5/6 (variation!) & 11. I led P2, 4, 7, 8, 9/10, 12 & 13. Very 'entertaining' (engaging) descent to a tedious scree gully. 11 hours round trip at a leisurely pace

Davidchatterton 09/Nov AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Nov AltLd O/S
drgrange 09/Nov AltLd

Mega day out. Wouldn't want to try the descent in the dark!

Hidden 03/Nov -
Yox89 02/Nov AltLd
Hidden 02/Nov AltLd O/S
rich H0001 17/Oct AltLd
Juan Ruiz 07/Oct AltLd

Led 1st, 3rd, and 5th.

with Isa CMM, Pablo Rosagro
Hidden 17/Sep AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul AltLd
Hidden 07/Jun Lead
HP9 19/Apr AltLd

Led all pitches except 1 and 3. 70m single rope... 6.5hrs car to car.

with Mark Hayes
s_sheath 17/Apr 2nd
steve-grigg 17/Apr Lead O/S
mikecollins 14/Apr Lead O/S

Did the direct route on p10. 7hrs car to car

alastairbegley 13/Apr Lead O/S

amazing looking line, amazing climbing, lots of good sustained climbing all the way to the top

gingerbex 13/Apr 2nd O/S

Long day. Very hot. Should've taken more water! Climbingvitself, 7 hpurs

rinda_ree 12/Apr AltLd O/S
with Scott "Limes disease" Brooks, Ali, Miles Mcconville
arose 12/Apr AltLd

Climbed in approach shoes. Probably one of the best easy multi pitch routes I've done. 4hrs

with Linda, Miles Mconville, Scott Brooks
Strife 10/Apr AltLd

First proper mountain route, and perhaps the best day of the holiday. Went up with as a 3 man team, and we were soon glad that we started at the crack of dawn. The last few pitches were the highlight (and felt trickier than we were expecting). The exposure, and being frugal with gear in order to increase speed, made it feel more like a VS

Jimbob64 10/Apr AltLd O/S
with Jim, Simon
Luke90 03/Apr Lead O/S
with Liz
Elizabeth Allen 03/Apr 2nd O/S
with Luke
mattmuller 29/Mar 2nd
jonnysims 29/Mar Lead O/S

Lead all but pitch 1 and 3

GStone 21/Mar AltLd
with Mark Biddle, Dan Bennett
ChrisBrooke 05/Mar AltLd

4hrs 40 mins for the route, climbing as a three. Good weather and a great laugh. Chilled out on top then two hours down.

with John Inkpen, Nadir Khan
katie93 01/Feb AltLd O/S
with Tom
td72 01/Feb Lead O/S

Great route in a great position, climbing took us around 4-5 hours some of which was eating lunch. Took a full rack but just used a single 60m rope which worked fine, just had to be frugal with placing gear and extend everthing. Could of carried a lighter rack, the hardest moves have bolts to protect and there is a jug where you want it everytime. Amazing climbing and not the ledge shuffling you usually get at HS

with Katie
Mark Reeves ?/Feb -
Paul Hy 09/Jan AltLd O/S

What an amazing route. Left the villa at 6:30 got to bottom of crag as it was becoming light, after one little detour. Geared up with full set of nuts and 5 cams, biggest was red dragon and 60m halves. Nick lead the first pitch and the route itself is easy to find with no dramas. We stopped at top of pitch 8 for a bite to eat. Every pitch apart for the traverse pitches were great especially the top ones. The walk off takes a couple of hours and the scree slope is hard on the knees. We got back to the car as the sun went down. A long day but well worth it.

with Nick M
Private Flounder 09/Jan AltLd

Led 1, 3, 5, 7, 10, 12. Stunning Climb that just keeps going. Good, easy climbing in fantastically exposed positions. Started at sun-up and back to the car before dark. Got a little lost in the dark trying to find the base of the crag and the start of the route but we'd factored in 'wriggle-room' so it didn't cost us anything in the long-run.

with Paul Hyland
miguelporelmundo ??/2017 -
with Gunner
Christabel Goode 21/Dec/16 AltLd
with Alix
suddy 21/Dec/16 2nd

This one's going to be memorable!

with Luke Wilding-Steele
LukeWS 21/Dec/16 Lead O/S

Awesome climb, with a memorable walk back down after topping out just as it got dark!

with Sud
Carl 20/Dec/16 AltLd O/S

Absolutely amazing climb! Started just after sunrise, got pretty lost on the descent and spent quite a lot of time exploring the summit, made it down for sunset!

Robs_Uren 20/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
with Carl Heinman
Phil 15/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
lukevf 15/Dec/16 Lead O/S
shaunhumphreys 14/Dec/16 Lead O/S

Simul in 2hr 40 after attempting the onsight solo and getting psyched out! Amazing route, got stuck behind 2 Spanish guys briefly and managed to only stop twice to swap gear

with Rory
Duncan 88 17/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
largejason 13/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
with Al Bignell
Hidden 12/Nov/16 Lead O/S
tiga271 06/Nov/16 AltLd
with Dave
Hidden 29/Oct/16 AltLd
featuresforfeet 29/Oct/16 AltLd
josefft 28/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Amazing day out! Started climbing around 9.30/10 and were back in the car by 11. Topped out at 8 in the last rays of light, followed by descent by head torch, where I got a bit lost. Managed to pull a massive flake of rock off on pitch 4, thankfully I was only seconding that pitch.

with Arjun Menon
hfotheri 28/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
with simon
Hidden 26/Oct/16 Lead
Juan S 11/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
Gary K Duke 27/Jul/16 2nd O/S

What perfect climbing. I loved every minute. Doubled up pitches on a single 85m rope

Hidden 17/May/16 2nd
Mark Eddy 17/May/16 Lead

Four years since we first climbed this. Forgotten how brilliant it is. Thoroughly enjoyed all of it. Will manage the Edwards finish next time, if we get started early enough!

monkeyru 01/May/16 2nd
with Dan
danieleaston 01/May/16 Lead

Fantastic, a few hard bits and an epic day out, mentally tiring but really good consistent climbing throughout.

with Ruth
Nigel Bond 01/May/16 AltLd O/S
with Colin Hutton
carlh 25/Apr/16 AltLd rpt
with scott44
Hidden 25/Apr/16 AltLd
Hidden 20/Apr/16 2nd
Hotcake 20/Apr/16 Lead

MP. Lead 2 students.

afterthesend 16/Apr/16 Solo O/S

1hr45 on the wall. What a day. Fully irradiated by the sun.

samparsons 16/Apr/16 Solo O/S

1 hour 45 minute solo, great fun apart from lots of loose rocks.

Legs 30/Mar/16 AltLd

Camped at the road and left at 0745. Soloed pitches 1-3 as the sun rose over Benidorm. Beautiful views. Then alternative leads to the usual top (12:30pm). Didn't take enough water and stupidly did The Edward finish to the very top (3/4 extra pitches with the guidebook description unclear). It felt rarely done! Took ages to get off the top and find the 50m abseil. But amazing views from the very top. Long decent down. Back at car hungry and sun burnt for 1600 finish! Greatvday out.

Mike W 30/Mar/16 Lead O/S
oddis 14/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Started with the Direct version. Arnfred did 1-3, 6-7,11,13 Oa 4-5,8-9,10,12. Completed the climbing with a version of Edwards Finish. Walked to the base of the pinnacle, traversed right and climbed the route marked EF on the rock. Beware of loose rock. Walked off to the right and ended up in the notch after a while. Rapell, from shiny new bolts, quite easy to find. Walked to the top of Puig afterwards. 10 hours car-to-car.

with Pierre Vidal, Arnfred Iversen
Hidden 12/Mar/16 AltLd
Hidden 12/Mar/16 AltLd
benclimbing 26/Feb/16 Lead O/S
with Cat Dick
John Nuttall 14/Jan/16 Lead
with Sharon
KeithAlexander 02/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

6hr ascent. Led in blocks of 4, then 2. Very very windy. Fantastic route.

with Sarah
Sarah Greenwood 02/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

Excellent route, led in blocks.

PAJames ??/2016 -
Hidden 23/Dec/15 -
Hidden 23/Dec/15 2nd
onlyfoddington 17/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

A wonderful day out in the mountains. Climbed entirely moving together, I just lead the last couple of pitches. Afterwards scrambled to the top until the deep gully stopped our progress and then braved the scree marbles. Halved guidebook time.

with Michael
pearson9596 17/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

Simul climbed. 3h from car to top of route.

Hidden 06/Dec/15 AltLd β
Hidden 24/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
Dorte Bjerre Steensgaard 11/Nov/15 2nd

Did first 3 pitches. We decided to retreat down the "direct" since the route was not quite what we expected. Possibly nicer once you get higher up??

with Nick E.
Hidden 08/Nov/15 Lead O/S
duzinga 08/Nov/15 Lead O/S

Did in 8 pitches.

with MTV
martintv 08/Nov/15 2nd O/S

Did in 8 pitches. Spent 6.5 hours of climbing. 2 hours of breaks. 2 hour walk to car from the top. Finding the way down was easy in daylight. Lots of via ferratas and red dots all over. Downclibing a bit scary a few times. But not too bad. An amazing climb.

with Tuze
G Weatherley ?/Nov/15 AltLd
with Ed Walker
swmackey 31/Oct/15 AltLd
Hidden 31/Oct/15 AltLd
scottyskier82 22/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

A great day out. Quite busy with a really exciting descent

with Ben Brierley
NeilHowarth 22/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
with Colette
cols1982 22/Oct/15 AltLd
with Neil
Hidden 15/Oct/15 AltLd
leathers 12/Oct/15 AltLd
with Rich Cole
Hidden 01/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
tallginge 01/May/15 AltLd O/S
with Isaac
sambeaumont 20/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
CreepingExcellence. 13/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/15 2nd
Stanners 13/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with the Orange house legends, Andy G
mjeffery 10/Mar/15 Lead rpt
jburrows99 14/Feb/15 AltLd dog
Hidden 14/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
plain kitten 11/Feb/15 Lead

TGA Melissa. Superb climbing. Worth doing the lot + stringing some pitches together.

Ellislee 05/Feb/15 2nd
jamie ward 05/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches, direct (5) on pitch 9

with Ellis Blower
Lawrie Brand 29/Jan/15 Lead O/S

About HS/VS 4b overall. Long route! Entertaining descent but not too bad if you follow the cairns and red spots. No sign of the big red cirle mentioned in the rockfax guide

with Sarah Laing
Hidden 29/Jan/15 2nd
winston22 23/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
Tim Rodgers 31/Dec/14 Lead
with Ross Heron
islandlynx 17/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

Led p2,4,6,8,10,12. Great route: quality rock, great exposure and spectacular belays. 11.5 hrs car to car, 8 hours climbing. Probably HS overall. Descent would be nasty in the dark, fortunately we made it down just before sunset.

with Amy
AmyAmy 17/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

really enjoyable days climbing, definitely worth getting up at 5:30 for, takes a great line up the puig, satisfying looking back up at the route on the decent.

Steve Woollard 05/Dec/14 AltLd
steveprice.exmouth 04/Dec/14 AltLd

Just brilliant!

Chris Manasseh 26/Nov/14 AltLd

Led 2, 4, 6, 8, 9, 11, 13

with John Armstrong
jvarmstrong 26/Nov/14 AltLd
with Chris
andyevans 10/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Solo'd p1, then alt leads taking the odd pitches. Brilliant day out - walked in witg head torches to miss the main heat of the day - this is doable but dont turn off left from the path to the face early as we did.as youll end up having to scramble a steep wall before the start (not shown in guide topo). Car to car was 9.5hours, climbing 6.5 and descent 1hr40 with two of us. There's about 4 bolts on the whole thing outside of the belays so you do need gear. Epic.

with cdpuk
cdpuk 10/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

9.5h car to car. Approached in darkness which caused us to miss the start as we couldn't see the oval shaped recess. Found it as the sun came up. Set of wires, 1-3 dragons and 8 QDs fine for a competent team. Stunning views. Unpleasant descent but be sure to go to the left of the scree to find a slightly more solid path. Solo P1 then alt leads excluding grade 1's.

gdjcoleman ?/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
with Simon
Hidden 04/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Skullfire 15/May/14 Lead O/S
with Jun Minohara
Loubylou 14/May/14 -
with Mark Edwards
JoeWakefield 04/May/14 2nd
robblowen 04/May/14 Lead O/S
PilarMartinez 25/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Lovely Climb, It took us 12 hours car to car as we took little breaks, nice long lunch and enjoying all the climb without rushing it.

with StweRat Walker
Hidden 04/Apr/14 Lead
SPK06 ?/Apr/14 AltLd
with tony
Stuart Macfarlane 25/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
with Jeanie
Luke Jones 06/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches except scrambles

with Jim
Hidden 28/Feb/14 Solo O/S
Wildstyle 27/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
madguernseyboy 27/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

Climbed with intention to finish in 6 hours. It took us 8 hours. We lost time between pitch 6-9. Got off route I believe on pitch 11. When's too far left as it looked easier at first. Completed the down climb to the scree in the daylight. Arrived at the scree as it turned dark. If we had been 10 min shower we would have had an epic trying to descend. The decent path is easy in daylight as piles of rocks and red markings make it e asy to find your way. Once in becomes dark you cannot see far enough with a a head torch to find the route down. Allow 2 hours for the decent. You can escape from any pitch to the bottom with a pair of ropes however we didn't climb with a pair. Only the last 4 pitches had proper bolt belays. The odd bolt and peg was ween on the way which wears not always very helpful as it can pull you off the correct path. Personal recommendation for rack. - full send of nuts cams and a bunch of slings, nothing special required. All in all a Fantastic climb and highly recommended.

mrteale 20/Feb/14 Solo rpt
Michael Haywood 14/Feb/14 AltLd

Totally wicked climb

with Tim Chamberlain
derryclimbs 26/Jan/14 Lead O/S

+ Direct Start and Edwards finish = 13 hour round trip (mainly from spending a lot of time at the summit). Beautiful route which exceeded expectations. We got to the base of the direct start for an amazing sunrise and thank god we did as we were chased up the route by a czech couple and a pair of valenthians. Simul climbed so thankfully were moving much faster than them and didn't get stuck at belay ledges (as the czech couple were). Blessed with a good weather window as it blew an absolute gale the next night. Highly recommended!

atapper21 21/Jan/14 Solo O/S
mark20 05/Jan/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 03/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
DavidR 03/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

4 hours 32 minutes. Me - pitches 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13. Hol - pithes 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12. Great route. Done with Kev Bowser and Dave Clark behind us.

red_rhodesha 03/Jan/14 2nd

Awesome route with Ollie moving together as an alternative to pitching - 45 mins walk in, 3 hours climbing, 1hur 45min descent.

davidreeves ?/Jan/14 2nd O/S

Lead by guide - Mark Edwards

Rich ??/2014 -
bob johnson 30/Dec/13 -
with Bram
saaruli 29/Dec/13 AltLd
with Erik
Hidden 29/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
mrteale 19/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Amazing day! Pissed it down 3 pitches from the top and got to climb some pretty exposed sections on sopping rock and then descent the scree slope inside a cloud. Great climbing.

alooker 19/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Great route, did a variation after the second big ledge at about VS 4c

with Alex, Ed
Hidden 19/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
scott mayled 18/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with A student
JonesJ 18/Nov/13 AltLd
five 15/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Awesome. Climbing fast and staying well ahead of Norwegians until they shortcut pitches 5 and 6 together. Grrr:) Doesn't go to the summit, but amazing views of Benidorm and descent is almost as exposed as the climb and fun in itself. Snowing at the end for full mountain experience.

with ALA
Jonny Harrison 15/Nov/13 2nd O/S

One pitch towards the top either pitch 10 or 11 we turned it into a higher grade 5 or 5+ going off the route. 8 hrs spent walking and climbing. Got a bit lost in the dark on the walk off walking the wrong way up the road towards the car.

Caroline 2010 08/Nov/13 AltLd dnf

Only managed first three pitches due to time. A long walk in and off. Need trad gear. A good climb (first three pitches) NEXT YEAR!!!

with lgp81
Hidden 08/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
Wildstyle 08/Nov/13 AltLd dnf

Only managed first three pitches due to time. A long walk in and off. Need trad gear. A good climb (first three pitches) NEXT YEAR!!!

Freshprintce 06/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Nov/13 Lead
cathymiller 25/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Awesome route! (although not HS) Led P2,4,7,10,12. Fraser a bit off route on P11, made for a VS/HVS pitch... rest of the route only VDiff/S though.

Louvet 16/Oct/13 2nd
with Tarquin
Tarquin 16/Oct/13 Lead
with Louise
BenedictIEP 09/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Possibly the most intense day of my life. Approaching Puig Campana in the dark for Sams second ever multi-pitch (1st on trad.), 11 pitches of awesome trad, all led. excellent banter with some Spanish climbers. An exciting via ferrata exit. The weather closing in just as we descended, with ace scree surfing. Then hearing shouts of help through the cloud, Mountain rescue promptly called. Back to the orange house for a much needed beer.

vix 09/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Most epic climbing adventure day yet... Quick start, just after dawn, dodging falling rocks. Lead pitches 4, 6, 8, 9, 10 and 12. With clouds moving in a quick decent on the via ferrata (which does not protect much, scary). Then a very long scree slope in the rain... heard calls for help on the mountain as walked out called mountain rescue... hope they were ok. Big day out... Awesome route :-)

with chris
Bristoldave 01/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

With direct start and Edwards finish. 9 1/2 hours car to car.

with Caroline
Jim-Roberts-1987 19/Sep/13 2nd O/S

Instructing

with Reece Venn, Peter Briggs
Hidden 19/Sep/13 Lead O/S
HP9 ?/Sep/13 2nd
with Mark Hayes
GOS 23/May/13 AltLd O/S

EOC:P6, 11 (part), 13 GOS: P4, 7, 8, 10, 11 (part), 12

with Eamonn O'Connor
wishicud climbHVS 18/May/13 Lead O/S

Fantastic mountain day. Took 9 hours to climb but we were in 2 groups and let others climb through. 2 hours down. Route finding ok. I moved onto arête at pitch 5, big mistake, belay tiny, exposed and V. Windy, might as well just climbed gully left of arête. Pitch 11 tricky. I went far left groove onto a very polished flake and horrid tat. Only scary part of mountain. Well worth a climb. Mega.

Hidden 18/May/13 Lead O/S
smartie 18/May/13 2nd O/S

First trad climb, very good route. very exposed. Very windy.

with Tosh
Napesneedle1 18/May/13 Lead O/S

Steady Ascent up a good path then scree to start of climb, the climbing was clean and beautifully exposed in places. The grading is top end of HS in places and could cause a novice leader a few problems. The decent is hairy however it is helped by the wires across the traverse. The huge scree gully is steep. The wind was very strong and relentless throughout the climb warm clothing is a must despite the hot Spanish Sun. An excellent day, fantastic route and entertaining company!

with Kate
Hidden 23/Apr/13 AltLd
Hidden 21/Apr/13 2nd
herman0055 12/Apr/13 -
with student
Theeni 04/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

7:50 car to car, 5:30 on route. With direct start, which I assumed was the norm, led in blocks. I led 1-3, 5, 8-11.

with Kitty Court
Hidden 03/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
crustypunkuk 03/Apr/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Hotcake 02/Apr/13 AltLd

14 Pitch MP - fully trad (HS). Excellent day out! Very windy.

Hidden ?/Apr/13 AltLd
mikesuth ?/Apr/13 Lead
with Jenny Colam
Hidden 21/Mar/13 2nd
mtempest 15/Feb/13 AltLd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 15/Feb/13 AltLd

Conscious of the epics that others have had we scrambed to avoid the first 3 pitches and strung together many of the other pitches (we had 2 x 60 metre half ropes). We also had Rich Mayfield snapping on our heels early on until his client slowed up when the climbing became a bit more technical. Left the car at 07:45, Back at car by 14:30. Next time we'll do the direct start and the time after that perhaps the original continuation at the top. The descent was quite long but clear to see and easy to follow in daylight and with no time pressure. It reminded us of a bigger version of some scrambly descents from Lakeland crags.

antmorgan1991 ?/Feb/13 Lead
with lou reynolds, Johnny Heyes
Hidden ?/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
Adventure Bennie ??/2013 2nd O/S

Very long, very hollow (piggy sounding rock) great weather though very windy from pitch 9. Long walk in and a savage decent.. Sketchy exposed and relatively unprotected traverses and down climbs and a god aweful scree slope to the bottom. In summary, very tiring but very rewarding.

with Billy mackintosh, Alan leckey
rustaldo 31/Dec/12 Lead O/S

led pretty much all of it. badly off route on pitch 4 or something. slow ascent. very slow descent. 13hrs car to car. climbing is straightforward. confident pairs could move together for the majority. direct start.

Hidden 31/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
craig naylor 27/Dec/12 Lead O/S

moved together for most pitches and lead some of the others

with alicia
RKirke 21/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
mikespooner 20/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
Aaronsim 04/Dec/12 2nd O/S

Direct start

Hidden ?/Dec/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/Dec/12 2nd
Tarquin 30/Nov/12 Lead
akhutton88 30/Nov/12 2nd
with SPANROCK
Hidden 24/Nov/12 AltLd
quickdrawmcraw 23/Nov/12 -
debbie roberts 02/Nov/12 2nd
Marti999 02/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Debbie
tiga271 ?/Nov/12 -
Theantoff 07/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Wonderful day out - don't underestimate the difficulty of the descent, however,

irishguyinlondon 03/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Forgot climbing shoes so used Tennies approach shoes, 11hrs car to car, worst scree descent I've had to endure to date.

with RooFin
Hidden 03/Oct/12 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench 24/May/12 AltLd O/S

Fantastic climb. Cant understand why it took me so long to get round to doing it.

with Anette
charlesmfrench 24/May/12 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route! Cant understand why I waited so long to do it just because its so easy.

with Anette
michael83 13/May/12 Lead O/S

What a route! 10hours car to car. Found the marked descent, but even that is some undertaking!

with Mel, Laura
Hidden 27/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
mdg skidmore 26/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with joe penfold, clive dean
SeánM 21/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

stunning route

Warren Earle 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S

First trad climb for Iain and he was a star, Scrambled and soloed short easy pitch - grade 3 back to the ledge at P3 where we had left some water and gear,followed the RF guides for pitches with well equipped stations on the main arete, the top of P12 is a great place to be, what its all for. Forget the time a long day even if you keep going.

with Iain Powell
Hidden 06/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Stickle Tarn ?/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Alex Wade 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Henry Brown 31/Mar/12 AltLd
Matthew Edwards 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Led direct, p1+2 together, Henry led lats pitch, all the alternates rest, I think...

partz 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Fantastic climbing, great day out. Descent IS as varied as described although for the competent it is safe. Slightly disappointed that this doesnt top out at the top of the peak but it was still great fun. Wothwhile

Jonathan Emett 31/Mar/12 Solo rpt

3h10 car-car. 1h30 on climb (direct start)

daveyji 27/Mar/12 AltLd

Very long day. 10 hours climbing. Rockfax guide a bit wrong in places. Pitches get better higher you go. Long long walk back to car.

with Linda Williamson
mark4344 24/Mar/12 AltLd rpt

repeat ascent and v. straight forward. did route car to car in 6 hours, a pleasant change from double that last time.

with Dale Knox
Hidden 24/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
cheeky 24/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Andreas
beckybray1 18/Mar/12 2nd O/S
rgd1977 18/Mar/12 Lead
Mick Riley 12/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Alt lead starting from pitch 2,4,6,8,10,12

with Ken prandy
99bolivar 12/Mar/12 2nd O/S

broken ribs

with Tim Josephy, JohnHutch
Hidden 12/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden ?/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
tim newton 06/Feb/12 Solo O/S
Jonathan Emett 06/Feb/12 Solo O/S

5h45 from parking, incl direct start and edward´s finish. 2h for main route. very good route, hateful descent!

with tim
Hidden ?/Feb/12 2nd
Mark Eddy ?/Feb/12 Lead

A fantastic day out. Varied climbing with some wild exposure, loads of loose rock, super rough & sharp limestone, magnificent views. As we climbed pretty quick and finished early afternoon we enjoyed a daytime descent which although exposed, was pretty straightforward, just follow the big red dots. If misty (as seems to be the case quite often), or dark, this descent could be quite an epic. Personally i'd rather kip up there and wait for daylight.

Henry Brown ??/2012 -
dan ely 25/Dec/11 Solo rpt
Martin Bennett 12/Dec/11 -
with Ali
1918hasti 13/Nov/11 AltLd
Ash_Johnson ?/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Ash_Johnson ?/Nov/11 Lead O/S

13 pitches, 450 meters.

antonymcphillips ?/Nov/11 AltLd
Tenko 15/Oct/11 AltLd
with Guy Williams
AndyFunnell 11/Oct/11 AltLd
with Mark Beecher
Marq 11/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

7.26 start, finish at 15:15 back at the car. Andrew ran first 3 piches together then led 4th. Alternate after that. Climbed in 8 pitches - 5A, 3M

Hidden 22/Sep/11 2nd
Tarquin 22/Sep/11 -
with Sarah, Liz
dkd 28/Apr/11 -
with Karl
Sianny 26/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Brilliant mountain climb!

with Al
stouffer 13/Apr/11 AltLd

Via direct start

Hidden 12/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Liam Ingram 06/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome and epic! Made a drunken decision to do this. No regrets! HS is more correct than 4+ as there are practically no bolts on any of the pitches. Great holds in a great position.

with Tom HS
jon clayton ?/Apr/11 AltLd
with luke dudill
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
knicos 21/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with James Chesmer
design crisis 19/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Tom W
Hidden ?/Mar/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/11 AltLd
Purple Roni 22/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/11 -
RKernan 30/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with C Mann
dan ely 14/Jan/11 AltLd rpt

moved together and did the direct start. Did in 1h 50m (stoped at the 1st decent path)

with paul (orange house)
JenDurden 05/Jan/11 2nd β
with Robin
jon clayton 05/Jan/11 Lead

A long but worthwhile day!!!! An easy walk in, generally easy climbing BUT and this is a big BUT!!!!! a horific and confusing descent in the dark due to the fact it is easy to climb to far on the top pitches and end up on the edwards finish Soloing !!WHERE Is ALL THIS CABLED PROTECTION THE GUIDE MENTIONS? We only found 1 section protected!!! Despite this it is a really enjoyable day out and worth doing :) Also met some great people from the southhampton climbing club who were very helpful on the descent and in return i returned there Stuck? gear.

with jason williams
Hidden 05/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Jo Davison 05/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Robin Head 05/Jan/11 Lead O/S

amazing climbing, but worst decent ever! why? it is hard to find the right point to stop the route, involves some scary abseils to get to the red dotted route if you missed the right turn, it's easy to mistake the first scree slope as the decent (really dangerous as it ends in a massive drop!!) and one usually does that in the dark. The actual decent traverse a long way and has a few hairy downclimbs.

with Jo Davison, Jen, Joe Premier
JonBrown 01/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with Sarp
jcj ??/2011 -
with jon paul clayton
31770 ??/2011 -
kennylind ??/2011 AltLd O/S
with Brian
Hidden 04/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/10 Lead
Hidden 29/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
timcedwards 15/Nov/10 2nd

Splendid day out. Did direct start &, accidentally, harder variant on p12 (5+? with 2 bolts & 2 threads in situ).Descent into gully tricky in dark. Start early!

with Andrew Edwards
dan ely 06/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

amazing line, bad top out and loose rock

with max and dread girl
climbhannahclimb ?/Nov/10 2nd O/S
with Max Fitzgerald, Dan...
JimBee ?/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

P4 J. P5,6,7 M. P8,9 J. P10 M. P11 J. P12,13 M. Easy to join together pitches with a 60m rope. Route finding ok, take a photocopy of the guidebook to be sure.

with Matt Ellis
Hidden ?/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
carlh 29/Oct/10 Lead O/S

A fantastic day out. I led all 13/14? pitches with Michael Whitley seconding me. We left the car in the dark and finished in the dark, even though we were moving well. Had no problems with route finding and agree with guide book (HS) as grade. A top notch mountain route!

heathergotrumbled 24/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with JH
Jake Howard 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Long day out even with no problems (c.12 hours) Alternate leads

with Heather Rumble
riff156 ?/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Bob Hotchkis
marvin1987 ?/May/10 AltLd O/S

Absolutely amazing! Best ascent ive ever done to date. Went as two pairs, alternate leading. 11 hours car to car.

with Thomas Grainger
Shaw Brown 12/Apr/10 AltLd

Brilliant day out.

with Earl Gray Larty
Hidden 03/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/10 Lead O/S
saz_b 30/Mar/10 Lead O/S

what a day, dugs broke leg on way down :(

with steve
sweenyt 25/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Superb. Quality day out, with some wild exposure.

with UBMC
martinp 17/Mar/10 AltLd

Three climbers. Simultaneous climbing for the seconds.

with Dave S and Alan C
Andrewbirkett 15/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with Stephane
Richard Gilbert 04/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Via Direct Start. Lovely fine climbing in an amazing setting.

with Paul Padman
ldadams ?/Mar/10 AltLd
with Mark Chaplin
Hidden 20/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Nov/09 AltLd O/S
howhard 15/Nov/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Nov/09 AltLd O/S
Liam FLeming 03/Nov/09 Lead
with karen dalzell
GScot38 ?/Nov/09 Lead O/S
Rich Clague ?/Nov/09 AltLd
Jeremy Wilton 09/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Super expedition - we did the direct start - three parties of more experienced dudes went past (politely) so we were a little slow - started at 7.30am finished at 4.00pm - take off an hour for delays - hmmmm. Went wrong on pitch 8/9 and went left onto the side of the arete - this wasn't 4+ The descent shouldn't be attempted in the dark. My feet ached like hell by the time we got back to the car. Two grande ice cold San Miguels made up for all that - Brilliant - well done Ash!

with Ashley Stevens
innesmac ?/Oct/09 -

Great must do climb

steveadkinson 05/May/09 Lead O/S

Led the final 2 pitches. Ascent in 4 hrs. Car to bar in less than 7 hrs.

with Tim & Ryan
Hidden 05/May/09 2nd O/S
Mark Fairhurst 01/May/09 AltLd
jacoob81 ?/May/09 2nd
dickie01 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Awesome day out

with Nick Briggs
Hidden 14/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 14/Apr/09 Lead rpt
mike fenwick ?/Apr/09 AltLd
with Rich johnson
Hidden 26/Mar/09 Lead
Hidden 25/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
sims 14/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

Had a bit of an epic-too slow on route got benighted just as we were finishing last pitch.Epic descent in the dark- very scary!

with Jonno
dknibb 09/Mar/09 AltLd
with Gavin
gav 09/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

Scrambled to avoid first 3 pitches, lead pitches 4-8 inclusive, dave lead 9-13. Descended in dark; powerful headtorch came in /very/ useful

with Tim, Dave
Lunar25 ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Lead every pitch, nakered!

with Phil Marsh
greenclimb 18/Feb/09 Lead O/S

lead all

with Sarah
Hidden 18/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Feb/09 Lead
barrington1978 ?/Feb/09 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 08/Dec/08 -
John HW 28/Nov/08 AltLd
with Cath
ebastock 11/Nov/08 2nd

Fantastic route. Scrambled the first couple of pitches. Only took 3.5hours to climb but with an hour walk in and a couple of hours descent, it makes a full day out. Fixed cables pretty much on all the tricky bits of the descent so well protected compared to the walk off on some routes in the UK. Not as daunting as the guide book makes it sound.

with John Beddard
Hidden 09/Nov/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Nov/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/08 Lead
Bruveris ?/Nov/08 Lead

Very nice climb. It's not a hard climb, but the sight is good.

gordon henderson 21/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
with Chris
crisaitken 21/Oct/08 AltLd

in the thunder

thomasholyoak ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Descent from end p13, go right, starts with a via ferrata cable, look for large red splodge, and has red marks and occaisional big red cirular splodges to follow. No abseils, mostly a series of via ferrata cables descending quite moderately. I´d say roping up and moving together is advisable on this descent. This descent path/via ferrata ends near the top of a big scree slope to descend to finish.

jamie ward ?/Aug/08 -
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 06/May/08 -
with SF
prycey ?/May/08 AltLd
Conan 23/Apr/08 AltLd

Excellent route

with Chris Michalak
Ken Taylor 23/Apr/08 AltLd
with Andy Chadwick
JonT 05/Apr/08 AltLd dnf

Didn't have full rack, so decided best to only climb the first 3 pitches and come back another time with a full rack for a full ascent.

with Helen Edwards
ChrisBrooke 04/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
with Shona D'Arcy
Hidden ?/Apr/08 AltLd
Hidden 23/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
Glyn 17/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Jonny
Peter Metcalfe 15/Mar/08 AltLd

Soloed first 7 pitches

with Mike Downing
Andrew Sloan 14/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
with Steve Grove
mark4344 14/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
with dave tourell
will9911 ?/Mar/08 -

Moved together up it all, easy climbing, but a great day

with greg
red-poppy ?/Feb/08 2nd O/S
net 21/Jan/08 AltLd
with Pete M
Peter Metcalfe 21/Jan/08 AltLd

A grand day out!

with Annette
NCorbett 05/Jan/08 AltLd O/S

Brilliant day out. Richard from the orange house acted as a guide and was well worth the money. The rock is beautiful - lots of holds and amazingly grippy. Heard a few stories of polished bits and tricky sections - but none that we discovered. There are potentially lots of different lines up and it would be easy to follow the wrong one and end up on a hiher graded section. Overall a brilliant day out and my longest multipitch route yet! Led first pitch and alternated each one after that, although we may have split one of the pitches in two. There are so many that they become a bit of a blur!

auld al ?/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
Phil PBC ??/2008 -
Hidden 25/Dec/07 -
Zoomer 21/Nov/07 AltLd

One student dropped out which speeded up things. Easy climbing at V Diff but a bit exposed in places. Walk off more dodgy than the climb. Bus to bus in 8 hours with climbing time of 5 1/2 hours. Direct start will put on half an hour tops. Don't be put off by it's size, good day out.

with Sally Brown, A Student
crisaitken ?/Nov/07 AltLd
gordon henderson ?/Nov/07 AltLd
with Chris
jcurley 30/Oct/07 Lead O/S

lead entire route

with Horace
The Bad Cough 08/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
DanT 15/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Amazing Route, Amazing day, combined with the Edwards Finish a 16 hour Epic

Hidden 15/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
TonyP 23/Aug/07 AltLd

Did Edwards Finish . Great day out

with Simon
Hidden 18/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
JonHarvey 18/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Amazing route! Did direct start, 5hrs enjoyable climbing to top. Didnt bother with Edwards finish. 1.5 hrs to base of mountain. :)

tskelhon ?/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with John Warner
hamish2016 ?/Apr/07 Lead dnf

Made an early start and got to the base of the route in good time. Decided to take the easy shortcut mentioned in the Rockfax guide for the first 3 pitches. The description was very poor (a photo would be useful) and we got about 2/3 of the way up the mountain via an overgrown gully before deciding to retreat. Back at Orange House by 1pm.

with Ross Overhead
roverhead ?/Apr/07 2nd dnf
Jon_Warner 31/Mar/07 AltLd O/S

A brilliant adventure, as expected the start is a bit pants, soloed first 2 pitches in skate shoes.. but after that it becomes brilliant. Ledges all the way up make for comfortable belays, while the faces inbetween still look daunting. The climbing is easy but wich a rucksack and a long day so far its no walk in the park. Route finding was relatively ok apart from once where i managed to nearly climb off the edge of the arete. DESCENT IS PROBABALLY MOST DANGEROUS PART advise keeping the rope out until you hit the scree for anyone nervous!

with Tom
Matt Shepherd 06/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
mjeffery ?/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
with Ray
Hidden ?/Mar/07 Lead
Tom Phillips 22/Jan/07 AltLd O/S

direct start

with bruce
Hidden ?/Jan/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd
John HW ?/Dec/06 Lead O/S

Instructing Tarquin's Exped 2 x students

with 2 x Students
Sylvi 14/Nov/06 2nd
with Andy L
JWB ?/Oct/06 AltLd O/S
with Lucy Adams & Mark Anstey
Simon Allcock ?/Oct/06 -
mr bounce ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Shona
andy mcc ?/Sep/06 AltLd

Amazing day out, great climbing in spectacular situations but very, very hot. Descent is the worst part of it

with Jason King
Hidden 20/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Sankey 23/Mar/06 AltLd O/S

A perfect day out.

with Luke
thebigfriendlymoose ?/Mar/06 AltLd O/S
with Stephen
Hidden 22/Feb/06 AltLd O/S
dfbpdave ??/2006 2nd
BALD EAGLE 31/Dec/05 Lead
with Karl Rust
Lil'Lou 25/Dec/05 2nd dog

Christmas day extravaganza. Mega first outdoor climbing experince, and legendary post descent longest piss of my life.

with Stuart Greenall, Clare Forster
steve mee 09/Dec/05 AltLd
with Mark Glaister
will_benfold ?/Dec/05 AltLd O/S

Moving together.

with Ben D
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd
HansStuttgart ?/Dec/04 -

about 5h from foot to summit

Hidden 17/Nov/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/04 AltLd
Phil West 17/Sep/04 AltLd O/S
with Shaun Walby
shaun walby 17/Mar/04 2nd O/S
with Mark Edwards
Hidden 28/Feb/04 -
SR1970 ?/Apr/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Mar/03 AltLd
Hidden 19/Mar/03 2nd
Katex 12/Mar/03 AltLd dnf

Due to rockfall on second pitch had to be rescued off. Had a black arm for a month but thankfully no broken bones!

with Simon Edwards
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 2nd O/S
dan gibson ?/Nov/02 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/02 2nd
John Brayshaw 18/Mar/02 AltLd O/S
with Chris
Hidden ?/Oct/01 -
Tarquin ??/2001 -
Hidden ??/2001 AltLd
Mick r ?/Oct/00 Lead rpt
with Jim Kirkwood, Steve and Pat
Simon Caldwell 29/Mar/00 AltLd O/S
with Ian A
Nigel R Lewis 09/Mar/00 AltLd
with Pete Bennett
Howard J 28/Feb/00 AltLd rpt
with John Hopkins
Hidden 25/Feb/00 Solo
rockjedi12345 ??/2000 Lead

route guided on whilst working for rowland edwards

EllieWoods 17/Dec/99 AltLd O/S
with Laura
Bob M 07/Apr/99 -

Left the car at about 7.45, started climbing about 9.15, top of route at 1.30. Wonderful high mountain route. Scrambled up some way towards the Edwards finish, but gave up as it seemed much further than the guidebook suggested.

with Jill Stevens
Howard J 22/Feb/99 AltLd O/S
with Paul Barker
dickypips ?/Feb/98 Lead O/S
with john richards
csalvage ??/1998 2nd

Led one pitch

with Jack
stugreen75 ??/1998 AltLd O/S
with The Youth
Hidden 28/Mar/97 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/96 -
Hidden ?/Nov/95 Lead
EddieA ?/Nov/95 AltLd O/S

We decided to start early and move quickly - un roped for the first six pitches or so, and roped for the rest. Good practice for alpine climbing and a fine route in its own right

with Simon W
Mick r ?/Mar/95 AltLd O/S
with Jim Kirkwood
Hidden 06/Dec/94 AltLd
Hidden 03/Dec/93 AltLd O/S
sdht ?/Apr/92 Lead
Hidden 03/Dec/90 Lead O/S
andyfeds ??/1990 AltLd
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Voting
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High 4b
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Low 4a
Votes cast 85
Votes cast 88
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
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Onsighted
Repeated
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Not Set