Rockfax Description
A great route up the wall to the right of Diedros Mágicos. The first two pitches are fully equipped, above this it fizzles out a bit. Take a rack of wires for the last two pitches. The name means 'Break Fingers'!1) 6c, 45m. Climb easy rock and then a small bulge. Up by the fine face until a tough sequence leads to a left-handed finger flake and more hard moves gain a good ledge. Enter the shallow groove above (hard for the short) and follow this past spaced bolts to a small stance. 2) 6b+, 30m. Climb up then left to the top of the large perched flake (old thread) then climb the wall passing a useful tree (peg and bolts) until harder climbing and then one very thin move gains easier terrain with a stance to the right. 3) 5+, 34m. Follow the groove (loose blocks to the left) behind the stance passing a bulge (bolt) before trending right then back left (old peg) over a small bulge to a short smooth groove to reach stance on the left. Abseil from here or: 4) 6a, 30m. Traverse right to a ledge and follow the old bolts up the wall to a new bolt. Follow easier rock to the belay of Diedros Mágicos. © Rockfax
FA. A and F.Bayonas, B.Dur?n, J.Rodr?guez, M.L?pez 1983.
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Grade: 6c ***
(Sella)