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The upper cliff had some good trad climbing that is worth looking at if the swell is affecting other areas of the Swanage cliffs. A steady head is needed to deal with the odd loose section of rock but is often better than it looks. One nut crack area has some friendly routes to get you started. The Yellow wall is a big adventure in its self and see few assents, but when the evening light is on it looks amazing.

The boulder field is worth making the long trek with pads to explore, just take it steady down the steep entry slopes.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions apply from Pier Bottom (the valley north of St Aldhem's Head) to the east arete of The Yellow Wall and from Buttery Corner (the point at which the undercliff below St. Aldhelm's Head gives way to seacliff) to Slippery Ledge.

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Last update: 02/05/2022  

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16m. Dive into the ivy beneath a continuous vertical crack 10m right of Pinnacle Gully. Negotiate the roof whilst removing ivy, sand and bugs from various orifices. Follow the crack to the second smaller roof. Pull over this and trend slightly leftwards to the small open corner. Belay in the wall some way back from the edge, or at a good thread in the blocks to the right of the wall.

FA. S.L.Titt, N.A.Coe 04/Apr/1992.

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Guidebooks for St. Aldhelm's Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Dorset Bouldering Cover
Dorset Bouldering (2015)
Rockfax
By Ben Stokes
Swanage Cover
Swanage (2015)
Climbers' Club
By Scott Titt et al
Guidebook correction for this climb

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Route of Interest
Ximenes

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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