45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The parallel line to Slape Direct gives a contrasting route. Start below the crack 3 metres to the right of Slape Direct.
1) 5c, 20m. The thin crack which leads to a junction with Brant is no pushover. Follow the groove above to a tree belay.
2) 5b, 25m. Take the large flake behind the tree to a smooth wall. Move boldly up this wall in fear of the ankle-snapping ledge below and breathe a sigh of relief when you gain the better-protected groove. Follow this to a ledge. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Alex's Wales ticklist.

Flavio 28/Aug/17 Lead O/S
James Worthington 10/Aug/17 AltLd dog

I was massively pumped by the time I got to the crux so lowered off and pulled the ropes. I then proceeded to fall off the crux many times, when I finally figured it out I was pretty tired and had to go for a slightly desperate slap for what was luckily a good hold. Apparently you can't have success without failure so I'll come back and try again another time.

with Ewan
Ewan Russell 10/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch

Hidden 03/Jun/17 AltLd
pie_eater_pete 24/May/17 Lead O/S
steven_daniels99 14/May/17 Lead dog
jacob shieldhouse hadley 02/Apr/17 Lead O/S

so fucking wet at the crux omg haha, then didnt take any larger gear for the groove lol

with iolo #2
jezb1 01/Sep/16 Lead


scottcoates 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Chris
DaveThexton 12/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Freja, josh
Hidden 30/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
frejashannon 30/Jul/16 AltLd
robertmichaellovell 18/Jul/16 AltLd
with Michael M
shed_hed 18/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Desperately thin crimpy moves (or big dynamic move)getting off the floor above low gear (placed from the floor) felt like it would have been pretty spicy to fall off at the start (gear is much better after the start though). Another tricky section halfway up to gain the traverse ledge. CC guide gives this E1, but to me felt like solid E2.

James Beaumont 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S

P1, pretty steady

with Max
tim20 23/May/16 Lead
jsmcfarland 14/May/16 AltLd dog

Tim led P1, I led P2. P1 is insanely hard and not all that well protected. Can 5c get any harder before it's 6a!? I fell at crux and it took me quite a few goes to work out how to get up. I led P2 which was miles easier but waaaay scarier. I tipped out a cam which I was moving up the crack at the top of the initial wall and basically solo'ed to easier ground, certain I was going to land on the flake spikes and break a few bones. The rest of the route is actually quite enjoyable though protection could be better. Bit of a naff route if I'm honest

with Tim
tim.fairhall 14/May/16 Lead O/S


with Sachi
Hidden ??/2016 -
Nifec14 ??/2016 -
Albert Exley 25/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

First pitch

with Jon
jonexley 25/Jul/15 AltLd

Good lead by Albert on first pitch but I was too far left on second pitch so it wasn't bold or hard - I will have to go back and do it properly.

mynyddresident 15/Jul/15 Lead
with KP
Hidden 17/Jun/15 Lead dnf
duncandarnell 09/Jun/15 Lead O/S

1'st pitch only

mynyddresident 26/May/15 -
wolf.leeb 26/May/15 2nd rpt
with nic
Hidden 30/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Stroppy 22/Mar/15 Lead dog

Lead on Rog's gear (why not), still took me a 2nd attempt to get the tricky move

mynyddresident 27/Sep/14 Lead
with KP
Hidden 14/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Brannock 07/Sep/14 Lead


alexjz 20/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route, climbed really well. Lead P1

with Gwen
Hidden 09/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 19/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with KM
Luxulyan 04/Jun/14 2nd
with Tom Murrell
Luxulyan 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Tess Lyons
Hidden 01/Jun/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 02/May/14 Lead O/S
Si ??/2014 Lead
with Terry
oliverpcain ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Matt Harle 07/Aug/13 2nd O/S
spidey 21/Jul/13 Lead β
with mat lamb
Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
wolf.leeb 20/May/13 Lead rpt
with hosey
Tim Rodgers 04/May/13 TR


Dan724 26/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch-very steep/hard for E1. Awesome route!

BenRyle 26/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Dan
Luke Brooks ??/2013 -
Duncan Campbell 06/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

1st pitch is pretty hard for 5c. Led the second which is bold and not too easy for the short but steady enough and once you get to the groove, you are safe and steady away! Hard E1, then easy E2.

with Gareth
Cardi 06/Sep/12 AltLd dog

Led P1. Really hard section halfway up pitch when I thought the crux was over, needed a rest. The boldish bit on P2 is easier for the tall.

Ed Babs 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S
James Oswald 04/Sep/12 Lead dog

Fell off slapping for holds after the crux. Hard for E2?!

Jen Crook 23/Aug/12 2nd RP
Hidden 23/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/12 Lead
Glyn 27/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Will Oates
Richard Kemble 29/May/12 Lead O/S

Lead Pitch 1 only, pretty pumped by the top!!

with Lewis G
Ollie B 03/May/12 Lead O/S
with L.Fleming
sam820 26/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Only P1

with Rich
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tom Livingstone 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
owain86 01/Oct/11 Lead rpt
Scraggadoo 23/Sep/11 AltLd
Liam FLeming 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with iwan
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd
gregoritos 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Both pitches.

dannyboy83 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
feilx 23/Jul/11 2nd O/S
thomasadixon 11/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Mike led in one pitch.

vertically_challenged 13/Jun/11 2nd O/S

1st pitch only

owain86 02/May/11 Lead O/S


with Jez
Jessie Rushbrooke 30/Apr/11 2nd
mynyddresident 29/Apr/11 AltLd rpt


with neil, wolf
Pippa 29/Apr/11 Lead

My first E1!

with Jon
wolf.leeb 29/Apr/11 AltLd rpt

Included p2 for the first time, which is a worthwhile E1 5b pitch with loads of gear..

with niel, nic
wolf.leeb 21/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with helen, nic
tim newton 18/Apr/11 2nd O/S

pitch one only

with dan ely
eddy-on-the-rocks 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Rich
dan ely 18/Apr/11 Lead RP
with tim
farmus21 08/Apr/11 AltLd

Lead P2. Tough first pitch with tough, bouldery moves with good gear. Top pitch is thuggish fun.

with Sam Radcliffe
samrad 08/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

lead first pitch, was hot and greasy, got quite pumpy until i relaxed. you just have to go 4 it. e2 5c imo, standard 5c moves on first pitch than a 5b move on second pitch.

with james G
barni 29/Mar/11 2nd rpt
Liam FLeming 29/Mar/11 Lead β
with barni
Rory Shaw 25/Mar/11 Lead rpt

first pitch

dan ely 25/Mar/11 Lead dog

rested p1

with tony (army)
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
Hidden 30/Aug/10 AltLd rpt
dan gibson 16/Aug/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead dog
david morse 22/Jun/10 AltLd
with tim
JulesV 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
dan ely 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

i lead p2, e2 5b by mistake. (not climb p1) was ment to do a vs next door

mr mills 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with ioan d
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead O/S
jelaby 30/May/10 Lead dnf

Not warmed up; not fit enough to do that many hardish verticalish moves in a row; not brave enough to do them above really quite good gear. I suck.

John Lewis 30/May/10 2nd
with Ewan
Hidden 11/May/10 Lead
wolf.leeb 04/May/10 2nd O/S

p1 only

mynyddresident 04/May/10 Lead

1st pitch

Sam W 03/May/10 AltLd

Led P2

with Richard
Bennykr 22/Apr/10 Lead O/S

awsommme route, placing gear is awkward but the moves are steady :D

Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 16/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
phil stubbs ?/Mar/10 -
with Nick Sharpe
hervenuttall ?/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with Andy
centurion05 ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Stu Harth
centurion05 ??/2010 -
mr mills ??/2010 -
with joe chorley
Richard Horn 24/Aug/09 Lead O/S

P1 only

ksjs 25/Jul/09 2nd rpt

my 2nd time on this and am as certain as i can be that this is 5c

with owen
Hidden 23/Jun/09 Lead rpt
geoff b 23/Jun/09 AltLd
Mike Goldthorp 08/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Ri ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Anja Jones
frost 12/May/09 AltLd O/S
with D Almond
Dave Almond 12/May/09 2nd


DavidEvans ?/Mar/09 2nd
Adam Ellwood ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd O/S
barni 22/Jul/08 Lead dog
chris sm 07/Jun/08 2nd rpt

P1 only. Pips first E1!

with Pippa Froggatt
Guy Wilson 07/Jun/08 2nd
with Steve Long
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/08 2nd
climbergg 30/May/08 2nd
Tim M 30/May/08 Lead dog

Oops. Crossed ropes with another climber. Put friend in the crux handhold. All out disaster!

with Emma
Joe Dove 30/May/08 2nd
with kev
kieranrex 10/May/08 Lead

first pitch

with Sophie Wilmes
Hidden 09/May/08 2nd O/S
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
tumbling wizard ??/2008 -
tumbling wizard ??/2008 -
Samsungl 24/Oct/07 2nd dog

Used etries and most other aid

with Joe Larner
joe larner 24/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Sam
Mark Stevenson 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Gareth
Hidden 12/Jun/07 Lead dog
Alex Mason 05/Apr/07 Lead O/S

single rock runner, hands were peeling off just made it with my pumped carcus.

with Adrian Berry
MikeT ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with SP
tumbling wizard ?/Mar/07 Lead
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/06 -
Ed Booth 30/Jul/06 Lead O/S

one move wonder

with Remus Knowles
Owen W-G 20/Jul/05 AltLd O/S

Expecting an E1 from the old Williams selective guide, Jim sent me up P2 (after he led P1 of Slape Direct - hard). Was barely an E1 leader at the time and got quite scared. Much relieved to find insitu thread at end of runout.

with Jim
jgordon75 20/Jul/05 AltLd
Hidden 06/Jun/04 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Aug/03 2nd
Hidden 28/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 07/Oct/02 Lead O/S
with KM
Hidden ??/2002 2nd
jfletcher 17/Jun/01 Lead O/S
with Charlotte Fletcher
belay bunny turned bad ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden 02/Sep/99 2nd O/S
Roget 02/May/99 Lead O/S
with jon
lost.arrow 29/May/98 AltLd
with Tim Malone
Ched ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
duncan 04/Oct/97 AltLd O/S
with Dave Wills
ellis ?/Sep/97 AltLd O/S
rob.grafton 12/Apr/97 AltLd
with Bruce
pete johnson 22/Sep/96 AltLd
with Crags, Paul Donnithorne
Hidden ?/May/96 AltLd
sheppy 10/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
pete johnson 08/Apr/95 AltLd
with Steve Findlay
wynaptomos ?/Mar/95 Lead rpt
chris sm 18/Jun/94 Lead dog
D Tempest 01/Aug/93 -
with Rick
Hidden 27/May/92 TR
WB ??/1992 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/90 2nd
whispering nic ?/May/90 -
with Rob W
wynaptomos ?/Apr/90 AltLd O/S
Seymore Butt ??/1990 Lead
with Spuz
phardman 10/Sep/88 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 13/Jun/88 Lead O/S

Led both pitches

with Dave Forster
Hidden 07/Nov/87 TR
Hidden 08/Sep/87 2nd
Dave Musgrove 15/Aug/87 Lead O/S

Led both pitches in one runout.

with Lyn
Neil McA 25/May/87 AltLd O/S
with Steve Andrews
Hidden ?/May/87 Lead
ukb & bmc shark ?/Aug/86 Lead O/S
with Charlie Stripp
Hidden 28/Jul/86 -
Nick Biven 09/Apr/86 2nd
Bruce Kerr 24/Oct/85 Lead
with Bill Wilson
Hidden 18/Apr/85 AltLd
Robmwatt ??/1985 -
with Gaz Morgan
GordonHart ??/1985 AltLd dnf
keefe 12/Jul/84 -
Hidden ?/Jul/84 Lead
Mark Kemball 17/Jun/84 2nd
Hidden 01/Sep/83 AltLd
Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead O/S
with Robert Kieske ('Flog')
Steve Lewis 30/Jul/76 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 25
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set