45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The parallel line to Slape Direct gives a contrasting route. Start below the crack 3 metres to the right of Slape Direct.
1) 5c, 20m. The thin crack which leads to a junction with Brant is no pushover. Follow the groove above to a tree belay.
2) 5b, 25m. Take the large flake behind the tree to a smooth wall. Move boldly up this wall in fear of the ankle-snapping ledge below and breathe a sigh of relief when you gain the better-protected groove. Follow this to a ledge. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Alex's Wales ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Andy Moles 19 Jun Lead P1 only.
with ferdia
P1 only.
with ferdia
ferdia 19 Jun 2nd
James Worthington 24 May Lead Yes! Felt steady, much better effort than last time.
with Lewis
Yes! Felt steady, much better effort than last time.
with Lewis
wolf.leeb 21 May 2nd rpt
with sam
with sam
Hidden 11 May 2nd rpt
Butel 7 May AltLd O/S
simondunf 4 May Lead O/S P1 only - not really a warm up on a v cold day!
with owen
P1 only - not really a warm up on a v cold day!
with owen
MikeYouCanClimb 25 Feb - Really warm and sunny for Feb, around 20 deg.
with Rod
Really warm and sunny for Feb, around 20 deg.
with Rod
cem 4 Aug, 2018 2nd Pitch 1 felt nails to me so pleased to second it cleanly.
with Paul Clarkson
Pitch 1 felt nails to me so pleased to second it cleanly.
with Paul Clarkson
mshorter 28 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Pitch One only before the heavens opened!
Pitch One only before the heavens opened!
ndraper1 22 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with will t
with will t
Wil Treasure 22 Jul, 2018 AltLd
BC 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S P2
P2
Hidden 10 Jun, 2018 Lead RP
Hidden ?Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Misha 20 May, 2018 Lead O/S Led both pitches. Spicy start - a couple of hard pulls above a brass offset. Tricky above but not too bad. I’d say P1 is a decent E2 in its own right. P2 has easier moves, just a bit bold for a couple of moves.
with eszter
Led both pitches. Spicy start - a couple of hard pulls above a brass offset. Tricky above but not too bad. I’d say P1 is a decent E2 in its own right. P2 has easier moves, just a bit bold for a couple of moves.
with eszter
Teappleby 28 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S Led pitch 2. Pitch 1 was a stiff warm up for the day on the fingers and a good lead from Cal. Pitch 2 is bold but only for about 2 meters and then there is gear for days. Got rained on quite heavily on the crux of this, luckily the holds were running with water anyway so didn't make much difference! Bon route.
with Matt lyons , Calum Wadsworth
Led pitch 2. Pitch 1 was a stiff warm up for the day on the fingers and a good lead from Cal. Pitch 2 is bold but only for about 2 meters and then there is gear for days. Got rained on quite heavily on the crux of this, luckily the holds were running with water anyway so didn't make much difference! Bon route.
with Matt lyons , Calum Wadsworth
Calum Wadsworth 28 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S Lead P1, felt definitely E2 5c. Was a good battle!
with Matt Lyons, Teappleby
Lead P1, felt definitely E2 5c. Was a good battle!
with Matt Lyons, Teappleby
mattlyons 28 Apr, 2018 2nd dog First climb in over 3 months. Utterly spanked.
First climb in over 3 months. Utterly spanked.
Paul Collins 23 Apr, 2018 Lead rpt
with bren
with bren
Hidden ??, 2018 -
Flavio 28 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Jumar Jenny
with Jumar Jenny
James Worthington 10 Aug, 2017 AltLd dog I was massively pumped by the time I got to the crux so lowered off and pulled the ropes. I then proceeded to fall off the crux many times, when I finally figured it out I was pretty tired and had to go for a slightly desperate slap for what was luckily a good hold. Apparently you can't have success without failure so I'll come back and try again another time.
I was massively pumped by the time I got to the crux so lowered off and pulled the ropes. I then proceeded to fall off the crux many times, when I finally figured it out I was pretty tired and had to go for a slightly desperate slap for what was luckily a good hold. Apparently you can't have success without failure so I'll come back and try again another time.
Ewan Russell 10 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S 2nd pitch
2nd pitch
Hidden 3 Jun, 2017 AltLd
Joss Simpson 3 Jun, 2017 AltLd
pie_eater_pete 24 May, 2017 Lead O/S
steven_daniels99 14 May, 2017 Lead dog
jacob shieldhouse hadley 2 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S so fucking wet at the crux omg haha, then didnt take any larger gear for the groove lol
with iolo #2
so fucking wet at the crux omg haha, then didnt take any larger gear for the groove lol
with iolo #2
jezb1 1 Sep, 2016 Lead p1
p1
Hidden 13 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
DaveThexton 12 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
frejashannon 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd
robertmichaellovell 18 Jul, 2016 AltLd
with Michael M
with Michael M
shed_hed 18 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Desperately thin crimpy moves (or big dynamic move)getting off the floor above low gear (placed from the floor) felt like it would have been pretty spicy to fall off at the start (gear is much better after the start though). Another tricky section halfway up to gain the traverse ledge. CC guide gives this E1, but to me felt like solid E2.
Desperately thin crimpy moves (or big dynamic move)getting off the floor above low gear (placed from the floor) felt like it would have been pretty spicy to fall off at the start (gear is much better after the start though). Another tricky section halfway up to gain the traverse ledge. CC guide gives this E1, but to me felt like solid E2.
James Beaumont 18 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S P1, pretty steady
with Max
P1, pretty steady
with Max
tim20 23 May, 2016 Lead
jsmcfarland 14 May, 2016 AltLd dog Tim led P1, I led P2. P1 is insanely hard and not all that well protected. Can 5c get any harder before it's 6a!? I fell at crux and it took me quite a few goes to work out how to get up. I led P2 which was miles easier but waaaay scarier. I tipped out a cam which I was moving up the crack at the top of the initial wall and basically solo'ed to easier ground, certain I was going to land on the flake spikes and break a few bones. The rest of the route is actually quite enjoyable though protection could be better. Bit of a naff route if I'm honest
Tim led P1, I led P2. P1 is insanely hard and not all that well protected. Can 5c get any harder before it's 6a!? I fell at crux and it took me quite a few goes to work out how to get up. I led P2 which was miles easier but waaaay scarier. I tipped out a cam which I was moving up the crack at the top of the initial wall and basically solo'ed to easier ground, certain I was going to land on the flake spikes and break a few bones. The rest of the route is actually quite enjoyable though protection could be better. Bit of a naff route if I'm honest
Hidden 14 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Cefin14 ??, 2016 -
Albert Exley 25 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S First pitch
First pitch
jonexley 25 Jul, 2015 AltLd Good lead by Albert on first pitch but I was too far left on second pitch so it wasn't bold or hard - I will have to go back and do it properly.
Good lead by Albert on first pitch but I was too far left on second pitch so it wasn't bold or hard - I will have to go back and do it properly.
mynyddresident 15 Jul, 2015 Lead
with KP
with KP
Ralfy 17 Jun, 2015 Lead dnf
with Lenny
with Lenny
duncandarnell 9 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S 1'st pitch only
1'st pitch only
mynyddresident 26 May, 2015 -
wolf.leeb 26 May, 2015 2nd rpt
Hidden 30 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Stroppy 22 Mar, 2015 Lead dog Lead on Rog's gear (why not), still took me a 2nd attempt to get the tricky move
with RKirke
Lead on Rog's gear (why not), still took me a 2nd attempt to get the tricky move
with RKirke
mynyddresident 27 Sep, 2014 Lead
with KP
with KP
Hidden 14 Sep, 2014 2nd
Hidden 14 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Brannock 7 Sep, 2014 Lead Hard.
Hard.
alexjz 20 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Brilliant route, climbed really well. Lead P1
with Gwen
Brilliant route, climbed really well. Lead P1
with Gwen
Hidden 9 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 19 Jun, 2014 Lead rpt
with karin
with karin
Luxulyan 4 Jun, 2014 2nd
with Tom Murrell
with Tom Murrell
Luxulyan 1 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with Tess Lyons
with Tess Lyons
Hidden 1 Jun, 2014 2nd rpt
Hidden 2 May, 2014 Lead O/S
oliverpcain ??, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
Matt Harle 7 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
spidey 21 Jul, 2013 Lead β
Hidden 6 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
wolf.leeb 20 May, 2013 Lead rpt
with hosey
with hosey
Hidden 4 May, 2013 TR
Dan Hale 26 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S Led first pitch-very steep/hard for E1. Awesome route!
with BenRyle
Led first pitch-very steep/hard for E1. Awesome route!
with BenRyle
BenRyle 26 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks ??, 2013 -
Duncan Campbell 6 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S 1st pitch is pretty hard for 5c. Led the second which is bold and not too easy for the short but steady enough and once you get to the groove, you are safe and steady away! Hard E1, then easy E2.
with Cardi
1st pitch is pretty hard for 5c. Led the second which is bold and not too easy for the short but steady enough and once you get to the groove, you are safe and steady away! Hard E1, then easy E2.
with Cardi
Cardi 6 Sep, 2012 AltLd dog Led P1. Really hard section halfway up pitch when I thought the crux was over, needed a rest. The boldish bit on P2 is easier for the tall.
Led P1. Really hard section halfway up pitch when I thought the crux was over, needed a rest. The boldish bit on P2 is easier for the tall.
Ed Babs 5 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with IainAM
with IainAM
James Oswald 4 Sep, 2012 Lead dog Fell off slapping for holds after the crux. Hard for E2?!
Fell off slapping for holds after the crux. Hard for E2?!
Jen Crook 23 Aug, 2012 2nd RP
Hidden 23 Aug, 2012 Lead
Hidden ?Aug, 2012 Lead
Glyn 27 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
with Will Oates
with Will Oates
Richard Kemble 29 May, 2012 Lead O/S Lead Pitch 1 only, pretty pumped by the top!!
with Lewis G
Lead Pitch 1 only, pretty pumped by the top!!
with Lewis G
Ollie B 3 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with L.Fleming
with L.Fleming
sam820 26 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S Only P1
with nawface
Only P1
with nawface
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Tom Livingstone 2 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
with owain86
with owain86
owain86 1 Oct, 2011 Lead rpt
Scraggadoo 23 Sep, 2011 AltLd
Liam FLeming 3 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with iwan
with iwan
Hidden ?Aug, 2011 AltLd
gregoritos 30 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Both pitches.
Both pitches.
dannyboy83 23 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with feilx
with feilx
feilx 23 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
thomasadixon 11 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S Mike led in one pitch.
Mike led in one pitch.
vertically_challenged 13 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S 1st pitch only
1st pitch only
owain86 2 May, 2011 Lead O/S P1
with JezH
P1
with JezH
Jessie Rushbrooke 30 Apr, 2011 2nd
mynyddresident 29 Apr, 2011 AltLd rpt P1
with neil, wolf
P1
with neil, wolf
Pippa 29 Apr, 2011 Lead My first E1!
My first E1!
wolf.leeb 29 Apr, 2011 AltLd rpt Included p2 for the first time, which is a worthwhile E1 5b pitch with loads of gear..
with niel, mynyddresident
Included p2 for the first time, which is a worthwhile E1 5b pitch with loads of gear..
with niel, mynyddresident
wolf.leeb 21 Apr, 2011 2nd rpt
with helen, mynyddresident
with helen, mynyddresident
tim newton 18 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S pitch one only
with dan ely
pitch one only
with dan ely
eddy-on-the-rocks 18 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with Rich
with Rich
dan ely 18 Apr, 2011 Lead RP
farmus21 8 Apr, 2011 AltLd Lead P2. Tough first pitch with tough, bouldery moves with good gear. Top pitch is thuggish fun.
with Sam Radcliffe
Lead P2. Tough first pitch with tough, bouldery moves with good gear. Top pitch is thuggish fun.
with Sam Radcliffe
samrad 8 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S lead first pitch, was hot and greasy, got quite pumpy until i relaxed. you just have to go 4 it. e2 5c imo, standard 5c moves on first pitch than a 5b move on second pitch.
with james G
lead first pitch, was hot and greasy, got quite pumpy until i relaxed. you just have to go 4 it. e2 5c imo, standard 5c moves on first pitch than a 5b move on second pitch.
with james G
barni 29 Mar, 2011 2nd rpt
Liam FLeming 29 Mar, 2011 Lead β
with barni
with barni
Rory Shaw 25 Mar, 2011 Lead rpt first pitch
first pitch
dan ely 25 Mar, 2011 Lead dog rested p1
with tony (army)
rested p1
with tony (army)
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
alasdair19 ??, 2011 -
Hidden 30 Aug, 2010 AltLd rpt
dan gibson 16 Aug, 2010 Solo O/S
Hidden 3 Jul, 2010 Lead dog
david morse 22 Jun, 2010 AltLd
with tim
with tim
JulesV 20 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
with Shauna Cunningham
dan ely 19 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S i lead p2, e2 5b by mistake. (not climb p1) was ment to do a vs next door
i lead p2, e2 5b by mistake. (not climb p1) was ment to do a vs next door
mr mills 6 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with ioan d
with ioan d
Hidden 30 May, 2010 Lead O/S
jelaby 30 May, 2010 Lead dnf Not warmed up; not fit enough to do that many hardish verticalish moves in a row; not brave enough to do them above really quite good gear. I suck.
Not warmed up; not fit enough to do that many hardish verticalish moves in a row; not brave enough to do them above really quite good gear. I suck.
John Lewis 30 May, 2010 2nd
with Ewan
with Ewan
coffeepot 30 May, 2010 2nd
with jelaby
with jelaby
Hidden 11 May, 2010 Lead
wolf.leeb 4 May, 2010 2nd O/S p1 only
p1 only
mynyddresident 4 May, 2010 Lead 1st pitch
1st pitch
Sam W 3 May, 2010 AltLd Led P2
with Richard
Led P2
with Richard
Bennykr 22 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S awsommme route, placing gear is awkward but the moves are steady :D
with benota, Torr
awsommme route, placing gear is awkward but the moves are steady :D
with benota, Torr
Hidden ?Apr, 2010 Lead rpt
Hidden 16 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S
phil stubbs ?Mar, 2010 -
with Nick Sharpe
with Nick Sharpe
hervenuttall ?Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Andy
with Andy
centurion05 ??, 2010 Lead O/S
with Stu Harth
with Stu Harth
centurion05 ??, 2010 -
mr mills ??, 2010 -
with joe chorley
with joe chorley
Richard Horn 24 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S P1 only
P1 only
ksjs 25 Jul, 2009 2nd rpt my 2nd time on this and am as certain as i can be that this is 5c
with owen
my 2nd time on this and am as certain as i can be that this is 5c
with owen
MikePycroft 23 Jun, 2009 Lead rpt
with geoff b
with geoff b
geoff b 23 Jun, 2009 AltLd
Mike Goldthorp 8 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Ri ?Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with Anja Jones
with Anja Jones
frost 12 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
with D Almond
with D Almond
Dave Almond 12 May, 2009 2nd tough
with frost
tough
with frost
DavidEvans ?Mar, 2009 2nd
Adam Ellwood ?Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2009 AltLd O/S
barni 22 Jul, 2008 Lead dog
chris sm 7 Jun, 2008 2nd rpt P1 only. Pips first E1!
with Pippa Froggatt
P1 only. Pips first E1!
with Pippa Froggatt
Guy Wilson 7 Jun, 2008 2nd
with Steve Long
with Steve Long
Hidden ?Jun, 2008 Lead
Hidden ?Jun, 2008 2nd
climbergg 30 May, 2008 2nd
with Tim M
with Tim M
Tim M 30 May, 2008 Lead dog Oops. Crossed ropes with another climber. Put friend in the crux handhold. All out disaster!
Oops. Crossed ropes with another climber. Put friend in the crux handhold. All out disaster!
Joe Dove 30 May, 2008 2nd
with kev
with kev
kieranrex 10 May, 2008 Lead first pitch
with Sophie Wilmes
first pitch
with Sophie Wilmes
Hidden 9 May, 2008 2nd O/S
Matt Vigg ??, 2008 -
tumbling wizard ??, 2008 -
tumbling wizard ??, 2008 -
Samsungl 24 Oct, 2007 2nd dog Used etries and most other aid
with Joe Larner
Used etries and most other aid
with Joe Larner
Hidden 24 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 17 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
with Gareth
with Gareth
Hidden 12 Jun, 2007 Lead dog
Alex Mason 5 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S single rock runner, hands were peeling off just made it with my pumped carcus.
with Adrian Berry
single rock runner, hands were peeling off just made it with my pumped carcus.
with Adrian Berry
MikeT ?Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
with SP
with SP
tumbling wizard ?Mar, 2007 Lead
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2007 Lead
Hidden ?Sep, 2006 -
Ed Booth 30 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S one move wonder
with Remus Knowles
one move wonder
with Remus Knowles
Sut 12 Sep, 2005 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 20 Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S Expecting an E1 from the old Williams selective guide, Jim sent me up P2 (after he led P1 of Slape Direct - hard). Was barely an E1 leader at the time and got quite scared. Much relieved to find insitu thread at end of runout.
Expecting an E1 from the old Williams selective guide, Jim sent me up P2 (after he led P1 of Slape Direct - hard). Was barely an E1 leader at the time and got quite scared. Much relieved to find insitu thread at end of runout.
jgordon75 20 Jul, 2005 AltLd
steveb2006 6 Jun, 2004 Lead dog Grind to a halt on pitch 1 and have to rest
with Andy Hemsted
Grind to a halt on pitch 1 and have to rest
with Andy Hemsted
Hidden 25 Aug, 2003 2nd
Hidden 28 Jun, 2003 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 7 Oct, 2002 Lead O/S
with karin
with karin
Hidden ??, 2002 2nd
jfletcher 17 Jun, 2001 Lead O/S
with Charlotte Fletcher
with Charlotte Fletcher
belay bunny turned bad ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Hidden 2 Sep, 1999 2nd O/S
Roget 2 May, 1999 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
debsb ??, 1999 Lead
lost.arrow 29 May, 1998 AltLd
with Tim Malone
with Tim Malone
Ched ??, 1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
with Glanfor
duncan 4 Oct, 1997 AltLd O/S
with Dave Wills
with Dave Wills
ellis ?Sep, 1997 AltLd O/S
with coula1
with coula1
rob.grafton 12 Apr, 1997 AltLd
with Bruce
with Bruce
pete johnson 22 Sep, 1996 AltLd
with Crags, Paul Donnithorne
with Crags, Paul Donnithorne
Hidden ?May, 1996 AltLd
sheppy 10 Jul, 1995 AltLd O/S
with IceBun
with IceBun
pete johnson 8 Apr, 1995 AltLd
with Steve Findlay
with Steve Findlay
wynaptomos ?Mar, 1995 Lead rpt
chris sm 18 Jun, 1994 Lead dog
D Tempest 1 Aug, 1993 -
with Rick
with Rick
Hidden 27 May, 1992 TR
WB ??, 1992 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Jun, 1990 2nd
whispering nic ?May, 1990 -
with Rob W
with Rob W
wynaptomos ?Apr, 1990 AltLd O/S
Seymore Butt ??, 1990 Lead
with Spuz
with Spuz
RockPhoenix 1 Oct, 1988 Lead O/S
with Bruv Simon
with Bruv Simon
phardman 10 Sep, 1988 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 13 Jun, 1988 Lead O/S Led both pitches
with Dave Forster
Led both pitches
with Dave Forster
Hidden 7 Nov, 1987 TR
steveb2006 8 Sep, 1987 2nd
with Andy Towne
with Andy Towne
Dave Musgrove 15 Aug, 1987 Lead O/S Led both pitches in one runout.
with Lyn
Led both pitches in one runout.
with Lyn
Neil McA 25 May, 1987 AltLd O/S
with Steve Andrews
with Steve Andrews
Hidden ?May, 1987 Lead
UKB Shark ?Aug, 1986 Lead O/S
with Charlie Stripp
with Charlie Stripp
Hidden 28 Jul, 1986 -
Hidden 15 Jun, 1986 Lead
Nick Biven 9 Apr, 1986 2nd
Bruce Kerr 24 Oct, 1985 Lead
with Bill Wilson
with Bill Wilson
Hidden 18 Apr, 1985 AltLd
Robmwatt ??, 1985 -
with Gaz Morgan
with Gaz Morgan
GordonHart ??, 1985 AltLd dnf
Alan Cameron-Duff ??, 1985 Lead O/S
with Various
with Various
Alan Cameron-Duff ??, 1985 Lead O/S
with Various
with Various
Pete Wimbush ??, 1985 Lead
keefe 12 Jul, 1984 -
Hidden ?Jul, 1984 Lead
Mark Kemball 17 Jun, 1984 2nd
Hidden 1 Sep, 1983 AltLd
Ian Jones ??, 1983 Lead O/S
with Robert Kieske ('Flog')
with Robert Kieske ('Flog')
Steve Lewis 30 Jul, 1976 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
with sharpie
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 28
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set