40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5a, 22m. Start at a white groove blocked by a large bulge. Climb the groove and traverse left to avoid the roof. From a ledge, climb back right over broken rock and some vegetation to belay in a fine cave.
2) 5a, 18m. Step left and climb the impending wall and shallow scoop to finish over a small roof. © Rockfax

FA. Sean Golden, Len Pearson 1980s 1985

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Pan Ron 21 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very loose rock covered in vegetation as the first pitch tops out. Somewhat spoils and otherwise interesting. Second pitch is great fun, but again, be careful of the loose rock.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very loose rock covered in vegetation as the first pitch tops out. Somewhat spoils and otherwise interesting. Second pitch is great fun, but again, be careful of the loose rock.
GrahamD 2 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Chossy first pitch with one nice move on the traverse. Necky second pitch with few rests until below the roof.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Chossy first pitch with one nice move on the traverse. Necky second pitch with few rests until below the roof.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
planetmarshall 1 Jun Lead dnf Did the first pitch but couldn't figure out the second. Not really worth the bother.
Did the first pitch but couldn't figure out the second. Not really worth the bother.
Pero 28 Oct, 2018 2nd
cem 28 Oct, 2018 Lead rpt Led both pitches. Vaguely remembered p1 but not p2, which I hadn't led before.
with Pero
Led both pitches. Vaguely remembered p1 but not p2, which I hadn't led before.
with Pero
Choss king 1 Aug, 2018 Lead
Hidden 10 Jul, 2018 2nd
Hulda 21 Jun, 2018 Lead
with Andrew1
with Andrew1
Andrew1 21 Jun, 2018 2nd
with Hulda
with Hulda
Hidden 19 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Wanderlust 12 May, 2018 Lead O/S Aiming for jackdaw grooves but ended up on this. Oops! Chossy, vegetated, confusing and bold! Was glad to get off.
with Harry
Aiming for jackdaw grooves but ended up on this. Oops! Chossy, vegetated, confusing and bold! Was glad to get off.
with Harry
Hidden 19 Apr, 2018 AltLd
mike smash ??, 2018 Lead
Luke90 19 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Deserves its lack of stars. Probably the loosest route I've climbed at Wildcat and it lacks trustworthy protection in places. No harder than HVS but definitely a reasonably serious climb that demands caution and a steady head.
Deserves its lack of stars. Probably the loosest route I've climbed at Wildcat and it lacks trustworthy protection in places. No harder than HVS but definitely a reasonably serious climb that demands caution and a steady head.
Hidden 19 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
NebHappyrock 2 Apr, 2017 Lead p1 & 2
p1 & 2
Joe Homer 2 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
crossleysm ??, 2015 Lead O/S
bendevonport 8 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S I lead p1. Needs a trim. First HVS lead.
I lead p1. Needs a trim. First HVS lead.
Matt Shepherd 8 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
Paul Hy 16 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S p2
with Chris F
p2
with Chris F
doughobbs 11 Jul, 2013 Lead β Little confused start as we thought we'd started on cats eye! Green rock as you trend right over the bulge was grippier than you think, belay in the cave was fun as the anchor points are a fairly wide apart and not actually in the cave! A very enjoyable route made better and with 2 great people! :-)
with Gordon Moir (Cloggies), Antoinette Wintin
Little confused start as we thought we'd started on cats eye! Green rock as you trend right over the bulge was grippier than you think, belay in the cave was fun as the anchor points are a fairly wide apart and not actually in the cave! A very enjoyable route made better and with 2 great people! :-)
with Gordon Moir (Cloggies), Antoinette Wintin
Hidden 3 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Nigel Edley 4 Jun, 2013 Lead
Hidden 18 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Jackwd 19 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Steve Fletcher, charley
with Steve Fletcher, charley
charley 19 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S Led P1! Nice route with some good moves. Not as nice as the other HVS's I've done here & shame about the all the vegetation at the top of both pitches but even with that, I enjoyed it - think it's worth a star..
Led P1! Nice route with some good moves. Not as nice as the other HVS's I've done here & shame about the all the vegetation at the top of both pitches but even with that, I enjoyed it - think it's worth a star..
chumleywarner 19 Jun, 2012 2nd
with charley
with charley
Sankey 23 May, 2012 Lead P2 (did cats eye first pitch by mistake)
with Jon and Ed
P2 (did cats eye first pitch by mistake)
with Jon and Ed
Hidden 20 May, 2012 2nd
steveb2006 30 Mar, 2012 AltLd Led 2
with Mick F, Dave Taylor
Led 2
with Mick F, Dave Taylor
mary 2 Oct, 2011 2nd
with Tony
with Tony
Brian Rodgers 21 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
with Esther Bott
with Esther Bott
Hidden 21 Sep, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead O/S
Brannock 1 Aug, 2010 Lead dog good start, somewhat vegetated in the middle section, quite hard to finish but I was doing the route in one pitch so by the time I got to the overhang was fighting the rope drag through the brambles.
good start, somewhat vegetated in the middle section, quite hard to finish but I was doing the route in one pitch so by the time I got to the overhang was fighting the rope drag through the brambles.
Paul ablitt 4 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
b.hayley 1 Apr, 2009 2nd O/S
with Alfredo
with Alfredo
riddle 11 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
with Giovanna
with Giovanna
gb83 24 Jul, 2008 2nd O/S as one. not a great climb. moves over the peg on P2 are a bit pumpy but good fun. take a hedge cutter for the top out ;-)
with masa
as one. not a great climb. moves over the peg on P2 are a bit pumpy but good fun. take a hedge cutter for the top out ;-)
with masa
masa-alpin 24 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
with gb83
with gb83
Hidden 25 May, 2008 AltLd dnf
rob wmc 25 May, 2008 AltLd O/S Alan started up the first pitch then took a right-hand exit when it started raining, I finished up cats eye.
with Jonny, Lucia & Alan
Alan started up the first pitch then took a right-hand exit when it started raining, I finished up cats eye.
with Jonny, Lucia & Alan
AntiGrav ??, 2008 Lead
Hidden 26 Aug, 2007 2nd
Somerset swede basher 26 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S Gear on P1 is poor with some loose rock and quite vegetated. Quality moves past the peg on P2 but bashing through the veg to finish it off spoils it a bit.
with Sarah Stirling
Gear on P1 is poor with some loose rock and quite vegetated. Quality moves past the peg on P2 but bashing through the veg to finish it off spoils it a bit.
with Sarah Stirling
Different Steve 4 Nov, 2006 AltLd rpt Led P1
Led P1
Alex Mason 24 Oct, 2006 Lead O/S led to retrive some gear but couldnt reverse it so carried on, single piece of kit in first pitch. andy did good job of second pitch past the peg.
led to retrive some gear but couldnt reverse it so carried on, single piece of kit in first pitch. andy did good job of second pitch past the peg.
zcapxa5 29 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Al McKelvie
with Al McKelvie
Albie 29 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S Pete didn't fancy doing another HVS so I temaed up with Kai. But managed to pick a really crap 2 ptich HVS with 5a on both bits so that we could split it. My start was very hard with a totally blank midsection with no gear at all - totally run out. Then a vegetation strewn ramp to the cave. Kai's section was a bulging overhang with no gear - which also had to be run out. WHat a waste. The expected rain turned up at 3:30 and we headed for the cars.
with Kai Green
Pete didn't fancy doing another HVS so I temaed up with Kai. But managed to pick a really crap 2 ptich HVS with 5a on both bits so that we could split it. My start was very hard with a totally blank midsection with no gear at all - totally run out. Then a vegetation strewn ramp to the cave. Kai's section was a bulging overhang with no gear - which also had to be run out. WHat a waste. The expected rain turned up at 3:30 and we headed for the cars.
with Kai Green
cem 31 Oct, 2004 AltLd O/S Led p1
with GrahamD
Led p1
with GrahamD
Marq 29 Aug, 2004 AltLd O/S 1st pitch only
with Daniel Dennehy
1st pitch only
with Daniel Dennehy
nickcanute ??, 2000 -
craig d ??, 1986 -
ajtay ??, 1986 -
with Various
with Various
tapley 14 Aug, 1985 Lead O/S
with Tony Raphael
with Tony Raphael
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 15
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set