15th September 2023 Update:
Access via abseil, as per the previous agreement is now restored following on from discussions with Manor Adventure the installation of new signage.
Wildcat Main Crag cannot be accessed via the old approach, which was through a gap in the boundary wall below crag level. All climbers must now approach by walking to the top of the crag (path to the left of the wall and fence) and abseiling to the crag base. Climbers must not stray beyond the end of the crag or down to the river. This agreement with the landowner should be adhered to at all times and is a condition of access for climbers.
The crag falls within a parcel of land now being used for outdoor education of children and young adults. For insurance and safeguarding reasons the landowners have created a secure boundary around the site and wish to control and minimise unsupervised access between the public and their residential charges. By limiting access only to climbers who will stay in close proximity to the crag there is sufficient buffer zone between the crag and other areas of the site.
A new fence has been installed along the line of the old wall to prevent the public walking onto the site. This blocks off the previous approach path, but please do not attempt to climb over the fence, or access via the river level gate (even if found open). Please instead access the crag from above by abseil. It is imperative that climbers follow this new approach and self-police. The fence line is visible to instructors using the river below and is monitored with security cameras. Any attempt to access via the fence will be noted by site staff and will result in access being withdrawn. If you see other people trying to climb over the fence, please inform them this is not acceptable – it is up to all climbers to help keep access open.
Currently four in-situ abseil stations are in place at the top of Jackdaw Grooves, Lynx, Tut’s Anomalous and Climacteric. Once you abseil in, please stay in close proximity to the base of the crag where you will be well away from site users.
Due to their close proximity to areas being used by children, access is no longer granted to the four smaller crags south of Wildcat Main Crag (Upper Tor, Mill Tor, Woodbank Tor or Mole Trap Buttress).
In the event of an emergency if access is needed on foot to the base of the crag there is a gate at river level. Call Manor Adventure, at Willersley Castle on 01629 348009 and request that a member of staff unlock the gate.
Puma Buttress, Slippery Slabs and New Bridge Buttress are not within the grounds of Manor Adventure and access to these is unproblematic.
Rockfax Description
1) 4a, 22m. Climb cracks, 3m right of the white groove, to an overhang. Step left and follow a groove to a stance in the 'eye'.
2) 3a, 18m. Follow cracks out rightwards past a blocky area to a final short wall. Head up this to the trees. © Rockfax
FA. B.OConnel, Bruce Andrews, Steve Bowes, Tony Watts early 1960s 1962.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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jimbonfire | 5 May, 2021 |
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βeta: Pulled a football sized rock off, 8m up, in a fully committed layback, very unexpected the rock looked solid, so happy to have a rope from above. Be careful out there!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pulled a football sized rock off, 8m up, in a fully committed layback, very unexpected the rock looked solid, so happy to have a rope from above. Be careful out there!! |
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foobar123 | 28 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Not much to belay off in the cat\'s eye at first look, but there\'s a mega thread if you keep on looking. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not much to belay off in the cat's eye at first look, but there's a mega thread if you keep on looking. |
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stevelismore | 5 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Quite dirty throughout, with a particularly loose dirty finish | βeta? | |
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βeta: Quite dirty throughout, with a particularly loose dirty finish |
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josh12345 | 16 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Rockfax guide is probably wrong, it shows the P2 going up the LHS of the cave and then rightwards. This felt much harder than anything on P1, whereas it is meant to be the easier pitch. Going right of the cave felt much better. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax guide is probably wrong, it shows the P2 going up the LHS of the cave and then rightwards. This felt much harder than anything on P1, whereas it is meant to be the easier pitch. Going right of the cave felt much better. |
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Grade: S 4b ***
(Stanage Popular)