UKC

Restricted Access

The Willersley area is owned by the Arkwright Society. It is essential that climbers do not block gateways with parked cars and that disturbance is keep to a minimum. Access negotiations have been on-going between the BMC and the Arkwright Society, and climbers continue to access the crag. If you are asked to leave, please remain courteous and report the incident to the BMC.

28m.

Rockfax Description
A good strenuous pitch, well protected too. Start up the leaning flake system then pull out left on to the wall and up to a rest. Climb the flakes round the edge of the roof then continue until forced to traverse left below the shrubbery to Zombie. © Rockfax

FFA. Ted Wells 1960s. FA. Steve Read, Steve Hunt 1957 1965.

Ticklists

Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

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User Date Notes
Fraser kid 14 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Top tip, when near the top, traverse level with the peg out left which you can see from the ground. Saves going into the horrible jungle above.
βeta?
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βeta: Top tip, when near the top, traverse level with the peg out left which you can see from the ground. Saves going into the horrible jungle above.
Richard 261 13 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Pretty damn strenuous, but no polish and superb gear.
βeta?
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βeta: Pretty damn strenuous, but no polish and superb gear.
drcorbasisgod 16 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The "leaning flake system" is indeed awkward. I found this much harder than the upper laybacking, which was great fun!
βeta?
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βeta: The "leaning flake system" is indeed awkward. I found this much harder than the upper laybacking, which was great fun!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Willersley Castle Rocks

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
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Route of Interest
George

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Dovedale)

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