UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is located on open access land so there is a legal right of access for climbing at the crag itself. However access problems have arisen in the past when climbers cut across fields on the quickest approach with does not cross Open Access land, but instead relies upon linear rights of way. This angered the farmer at Conies Farm due to damage to dry stone walls from people climbing over them and his attitude to climbers remains negative. Avoid confrontation with the farmer by accessing the crag via the very slightly longer route through Oxlow Rake rather than through Conies Farm (see 'parking and approach' below for more info).

The crag is characterised by non-eliminate climbing on good rock. Holds are mostly weathered features - slopers, pinches, crimps - a refreshing change from the usual rattly Peak limestone. Great landings - mostly flat and grassy and lots of link ups possible. More details on www.peakbouldering.info (when it is functional). There are problems on either side of those documented in Peak Limestone North, but these are poor quality and best avoided for ecological reasons.

Rockfax Description
Done originally by using a pair of slopey horizontal pinches to gain the jugs. Eliminate but nicer than the reach method. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Done originally by using a pair of very slopey horizontal pinches to gain the jugs. Eliminate but much nicer than the reach method.

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Voting
High f7B+
Mid f7B+
Low f7B+
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bus Stop Mantel

Grade: f7B ***
(Rowtor Rocks)

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