35m.

Rockfax Description
The leaning groove left of a large Y-trunked tree is steep and sustained. Pass the bulge (crux - old peg) for more of the same then escape left up the groove. Easier for the long-legged. © Rockfax

FFA. Ron Fawcett, Pete Gomersall 1976. FA. Terry Bolger, Phil Lee (2 pts, AL) 26/5/1968

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UserDateNotes
Ian Milward 21 Jul, 2014 Show βeta
βeta: Given a good clean last week. A Willersley favourite now back on the menu....
βeta?
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βeta: Given a good clean last week. A Willersley favourite now back on the menu....
roger whetton 5 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: 'Wind of Change' at (a good) E1 5b is worthwhile in this area.
βeta?
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βeta: 'Wind of Change' at (a good) E1 5b is worthwhile in this area.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
bigdrew 27 Jun Lead O/S
Alex@home 5 Aug, 2018 Lead dog Need to go back on a much cooler day but I thought the crux was nails for 5c. Slipped off first go. Got it after a quick rest
with The Doctor
Need to go back on a much cooler day but I thought the crux was nails for 5c. Slipped off first go. Got it after a quick rest
with The Doctor
Bernie L 31 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Henry Tyce
with Henry Tyce
Hidden 2 Jul, 2018 2nd dog
Luke90 2 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S 6 foot felt like the sweet spot for getting a nice rest under the overlap and also having the reach to get to good holds above it. Don't relax once you get to the "easy" finishing groove, it's not difficult but there's loose rock around and not much trustworthy gear.
6 foot felt like the sweet spot for getting a nice rest under the overlap and also having the reach to get to good holds above it. Don't relax once you get to the "easy" finishing groove, it's not difficult but there's loose rock around and not much trustworthy gear.
john lynch 1 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Bethan May Davies 1 Jul, 2018 2nd
Hidden 29 Jun, 2018 2nd dog
mike mo ??, 2016 -
Mike_Hayes 5 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Wet crux holds but I still think 6a for the move around the bulge.
with ChrisC
Wet crux holds but I still think 6a for the move around the bulge.
with ChrisC
eel 15 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
with Ian
with Ian
ejected ??, 2013 -
crossleysm ??, 2013 Lead
nbotting ??, 2012 -
Andrew Barker 1 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S A good route with a tough pull over the roof.
with Tom Ramsden
A good route with a tough pull over the roof.
with Tom Ramsden
Dave Bond 16 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with SiW
with SiW
Misha 23 May, 2010 Lead O/S Felt a bit adventurous as not very clear where the lines goes, pretty obvious once you're on it though. Still, missed the initial groove and instead followed a line slightly to the left up to the bulge - probably a bit easier but not that well protected. The bulge provided a powerful crux and was followed by a sustained groove. The peg in the bulge didn't look too bad but the two bits of battered tat that were clipped into it didn't inspire confidence. Ian belayed but didn't fancy it so Eddie did it instead.
with Ian B, eduardo
Felt a bit adventurous as not very clear where the lines goes, pretty obvious once you're on it though. Still, missed the initial groove and instead followed a line slightly to the left up to the bulge - probably a bit easier but not that well protected. The bulge provided a powerful crux and was followed by a sustained groove. The peg in the bulge didn't look too bad but the two bits of battered tat that were clipped into it didn't inspire confidence. Ian belayed but didn't fancy it so Eddie did it instead.
with Ian B, eduardo
miastacey 28 Jun, 2009 2nd
with Bob Smith
with Bob Smith
thebigfriendlymoose 25 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with Sankey
with Sankey
Sankey 25 Aug, 2007 2nd dog Hard moves around the overhang!
Hard moves around the overhang!
Hidden 29 Jun, 2007 2nd dog
Boy ??, 2006 -
steveb2006 14 Aug, 2002 2nd Dave leads after I fail on it. Even have to pull on peg seconding.
with Dave Taylor
Dave leads after I fail on it. Even have to pull on peg seconding.
with Dave Taylor
sadams 20 Aug, 1996 Lead O/S
with Hugh Cottom
with Hugh Cottom
steveb2006 19 Mar, 1993 Lead Mike also leads it
Mike also leads it
MikePycroft 19 Mar, 1993 2nd
nickcanute ??, 1993 Lead
Roget 20 Sep, 1992 Lead O/S
with baccy
with baccy
uphillnow ?Sep, 1992 2nd
with Mark Gray
with Mark Gray
clanger 1 May, 1992 2nd
Hidden 1 May, 1992 Lead rpt
steveb2006 9 Apr, 1992 Lead dog Grab peg over roof - step down and do it properly
with Brian Hamilton
Grab peg over roof - step down and do it properly
with Brian Hamilton
David Slater 6 May, 1990 Lead
ajtay ??, 1990 -
with Various
with Various
Alan Scowcroft 17 Jun, 1989 2nd dog pulled on the peg !
with Angus Atkinson
pulled on the peg !
with Angus Atkinson
Hidden ??, 1989 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Jul, 1988 Lead O/S
steveb2006 25 Apr, 1988 Lead
with Gez Morgan
with Gez Morgan
sadams 22 Jun, 1985 Lead
with Kevin Edwards
with Kevin Edwards
andy gittins ??, 1985 -
Hidden ??, 1983 Lead
Andy Edgar ??, 1980 Lead Quite sustained after the roof I thought
Quite sustained after the roof I thought
Andy Nicholson ?Jul, 1978 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 May, 1976 Lead
Phil Lee48 26 May, 1968 AltLd Did the first ascent of this with Terry Bolger. Bolg did the aid sections using home made pegs which he called V1s and V2s, after German World War 2 flying bombs. I remember it being a long day with constant insults being hurled at us from fellow climbers on the crag - happy days! Phil Lee
Did the first ascent of this with Terry Bolger. Bolg did the aid sections using home made pegs which he called V1s and V2s, after German World War 2 flying bombs. I remember it being a long day with constant insults being hurled at us from fellow climbers on the crag - happy days! Phil Lee
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 5
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set