Restricted Access
The Willersley area is owned by the Arkwright Society. It is essential that climbers do not block gateways with parked cars and that disturbance is keep to a minimum. Access negotiations have been on-going between the BMC and the Arkwright Society, and climbers continue to access the crag. If you are asked to leave, please remain courteous and report the incident to the BMC.
Rockfax Description
Climb the steep slanting crack in the left wall of the slabby groove to a niche with a tree. Step left and climb a short groove to a ledge on the right. From here the original line heads took vegetated rock up left to join Gut Ache Grooves. A better finish is moving into the red corner then making a great traverse right to meet Garrotter. No change in grade but a second tricky section. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the steep slanting crack in the left wall of the slabby groove (knobbly!!) then where it ends step left into the continuation groove. Up this until Guts Ache can be joined. Note that the line for this route marked on the topo in Peak Limestone Rockfax is actually that of Chopping Block (E2)- follow the left hand crack then move left again.
FA. Jack Street, Bruce Andrews late 1960s 1967.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alan James - Rockfax | 16 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: The normal finish moving up and into Guts Ache Groove is poor. A much better finish is to move right up the groove above and then make a tricky but excellent traverse right into Garrotter. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The normal finish moving up and into Guts Ache Groove is poor. A much better finish is to move right up the groove above and then make a tricky but excellent traverse right into Garrotter. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Willersley Castle Rocks
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The Scoop
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)