UKC

The open groove in the steep wall between Rumplestiltskin and Rumpus. An excellent pitch but unsuitable for those with a cavalier attitude towards rock and/or protection. Follow the groove to a good wire where the crack ends at 15m. Move R to a large jug (Friend 3) and climb steeply over the bulge into the upper groove (stainless peg - not brilliant but very welcome!). Climb the groove till it is possible to swing L along a shelf to another steep groove leading to the summit of the tower.

P Littlejohn, D Garner Abseil inspected in 2008 23/May/2009.

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Atlantic Coast New Routes

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Route of Interest
Cain

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Pordenack Point Area)

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