3 pitches. Start from the grassy terrace below the crag where rusty streaks on the rock are an obvious feature. Go straight up to the traverse line of Oxo and then move up into the right facing corner above the diagonal ramp - a piton is an obvious feature high in the corner. Straight up the corner to a large ledge and then follow the same corner line (awkward but quite easy if a semi-layback is adopted) to a second ledge below the top pich of Oxo - belay. Move easily down the slab to the right to the ledge at the top of Oxo, pitch 1. Climb the awkward left facing corner (good wire placements) until your right hand can reach an obvious hold above your head on the right edge of the groove. Bridge up until you can move your left hand onto a higher hold above your right hand and then move round onto the front of the buttress. From there a series of steep moves on excellent holds leads to the top.

Ticklists: "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST.

George_Surf 04/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

I led p1. Felt bold initially but there is good gear in the start of the corner (big wire and solid purple dragon) and the rest is really safe. 3 short cruxs, steep moves and then easier. Rachel led p2. Huge holds! Good exposure, not hard.

Emily_vau 04/Jun/17 2nd

First pitch i found very steep and got pretty pumped so found the corner crack hard. Had to rest on the rope a few times. None the less great climbing. Short down climb to the start of P2. Second pitch was great steep Juggy all the way to the top.

rachelpearce01 04/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
wi11 14/May/17 AltLd rpt
with Sabby
tom0129 04/Apr/17 AltLd
Fatclimber 06/Jun/16 Lead

Couldn't make peg on the first corner of pitch 1 so went right then back left. Did second corner as a short separate pitch. John led down slab, but I did rest.

Hidden 06/Jun/16 2nd
wi11 22/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Amazing second pitch!

with Helen Wise
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2016 Lead
with Phil Earl, Brian Molyneux
joedean ??/2016 -
maty500 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Davesmith1981 03/Jul/15 AltLd dog

pulled on gear over the crux.

with jez brown
jezb1 03/Jul/15 AltLd

Underestimated P1 (sec) as guide says 5a. Got to be 5b, maybe E1. Top pitch is pretty cool jug pulling. Great setting in the sun :)

Hidden 22/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
Alison Cairns 22/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Seconded p1 not as bad as I expected - good technical climbing and gear ok at hvs/e1 5b but def not hvs 5a! P2 descends to grassy bay not tree as per guide. P3 jugtastic once you make the wild swing right!

with anna
jcw ??/2015 -
Hidden 18/Apr/14 AltLd
dave mann ??/2014 Lead O/S

Led first pitch

Nick Biven ??/2014 -
jon_gill1 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S

led first pitch as part of aid climbing course then aided and hauled up an E2 from then onwards.must go back for a proper climb.

with ross garfoot, chris Lyness
Hidden ?/Sep/13 2nd
stemill 03/Aug/13 Lead

Top pitch is jug-tastic!

with Mark, Graham
Calder 03/Aug/13 2nd
with Mark, Ste
Diggler 03/Aug/13 2nd
air 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

awesome 2nd pitch

with Lloyd
Lloyders 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S


with Air
Hidden ??/2013 -
Jim at Craigdhu 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S

The line of Bovox would have been more logical.

with RC Neil H
jade Edwards Leaney 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with David Hopwood
brockers ?/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 23/Jul/12 Lead O/S
guy757 27/May/12 AltLd
Sardien 06/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Lovely! Should have led the second pitch and not have wimped because of a few specks of rain though. Great climb

with Andy Scott
HIGHTOWER 12/Mar/12 AltLd
with Ruth
brockers ??/2012 Lead O/S

Hard move, delicate bridging to clip the peg.

PAJames ??/2012 -
Hidden 13/Sep/11 AltLd
pauldrew 04/Sep/11 AltLd
Hidden 04/Jun/11 AltLd
psychomansam 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S

hard first pitch. good technical feet required.

jshields 10/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Mar/11 AltLd
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Conan 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Badly times downpour climbing up the corner past the peg. Made the pull onto the ledge above, desperate. Top pitch was superb

with Phil
garywong 03/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Led 1st and 2nd pitches. Nice climb, but as described it is disjointed. The natural line would take you up Oxo after the first pitch.

Chris M Thomas 31/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led the first pitch but on re-reading guidebook realised that I had not done it quite right - started too far right - need to repeat properly sometime - rusty streaks an obvious mark of the correct start. Found the top pitch easy (Luke led) - surprised since we saw a number of seconds having real difficulties earlier while doing Oxo.

with Luke
RhedwrMynydd 22/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/May/10 Lead O/S
will randall ?/May/10 Lead O/S
with sarah
Bry 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Trys
chrisallan 06/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/10 AltLd
BlueJohn ?/Jan/10 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 28/Jun/09 AltLd
Sam W 30/May/09 AltLd

Led P1&2

berry ?/May/09 2nd
with simon
dan gibson 19/Apr/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/09 -
barni 15/Apr/09 Lead O/S

only did first pitch

Hidden 31/May/08 AltLd O/S
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
ste_d 23/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with mik
nokishatov 23/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Abi Chard ?/May/07 AltLd O/S
with Ian
richardr ?/May/07 AltLd O/S
shoulders 21/Jul/06 Lead
Hidden 02/Jul/06 AltLd
Cowflinger ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with John Williams
Hidden 05/May/06 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 19/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Rebecca
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S

Good top pitch- huge huge jugs on a steep steep wall...

mattyork2 ?/Jul/05 AltLd
with Rory Shawe
A Crook 05/May/05 2nd

superb position on the second pitch

Ratfeeder 22/Aug/04 AltLd O/S

seconded pitches 1 & 3

with Phil
caradoc 17/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with Dave Laddiman
Hidden 15/Mar/03 Lead
John Kettle ??/2003 Lead
cem 29/Sep/02 AltLd O/S

Led p1. Badly hungover

Hidden 13/Sep/02 AltLd
Nigel Coe 13/Sep/02 AltLd

We wondered what the 'TR2' signs were when we parked, and were bemused by the Chinese village down by Llyn Gwynant. Unfortunately we didn't get to take Angelina Jolie climbing.

Hidden 15/Jun/02 AltLd
geoff b 18/Nov/01 AltLd
pete johnson 18/Nov/01 -
adi bryant 22/Jun/01 AltLd O/S
with Tim
lost.arrow 17/Jul/00 -

Not 5a, maybe 5b/c.

with Gill Heartly
frost ?/Jul/00 Lead
Derek Ryden 31/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
with Dave the Leg
WB 12/Jun/98 AltLd O/S
with Paul
Hidden 28/May/98 Lead
Hidden ?/May/98 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jul/96 Lead
goi.ashmore 21/Jun/96 Lead O/S
with Dee Herbert
Julian Wedd ??/1996 Lead
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
MoWalker3 06/Sep/93 AltLd
with Joe
Martin Brierley ??/1993 Lead
with Colin Jones
SteveBowersChirk 01/Jun/92 AltLd O/S
AlanLittle ?/Aug/91 AltLd
tlr 06/May/91 AltLd
with Nick
Hidden 27/Apr/91 AltLd
nigehughes ?/Mar/91 Lead
with John Roe
sadams ?/Jul/90 Lead
with Mark Bonham
nigehughes ?/Apr/89 AltLd
with Ian Ellis, Jim Clethero
nigehughes ?/May/88 AltLd
with Graham Stamp
Hidden 15/Aug/87 AltLd
Hidden 30/May/87 Lead
Mark Kemball 09/Dec/84 AltLd
with Dan Symonds, Paul Metcalf
TonyF 01/Aug/83 Lead O/S
with Dave McDowel
GordonHart ??/1983 Lead O/S
Nic Robinson 01/Jan/82 AltLd O/S
with (Dirty) Derek Hearsey
Mark Kemball 08/Mar/81 AltLd
with Bill McKee
Chris Terrey 21/Oct/80 AltLd
with Mike Quantrell
Hidden ?/Aug/80 Lead O/S
babymoac 06/Jul/80 AltLd
with MTW
Falko 01/May/80 AltLd O/S

I have pencilled 'Superb' beside the description to pitch 4

with Chris Astill (Shilling Rabbit)
Nigel Bond 12/May/79 Lead
with Andy Brown
Bruce Kerr 16/Apr/79 Lead
with Brian Carson
mikej 26/Jun/78 Lead
with Tony Waite
Mike Owen 17/Jun/78 Lead O/S
with Elaine Watson
jmr ?/Mar/78 AltLd

I recall the "just go-for-it" top pitch. (lead) You could stop to put gear in, but if you do you'll need it. Your choice.

with Gerry Ashton
kjacks ??/1978 Lead
with Lol Fletcher
Hidden 07/May/77 Lead
Rob Davies 06/Apr/77 AltLd

Peg for aid normal in those days

with Rob Banks (CUMC)
Derek Ryden ??/1977 AltLd O/S
with Glynne Andrew
rogerskews 01/Aug/76 AltLd
with George Hardill
Bolt Phobia 26/May/76 AltLd
with Tom Walkington
Steve Lewis 15/Apr/76 AltLd
with sharpie
Bolt Phobia 18/Apr/75 AltLd
with John Young
RichardMc 09/Feb/75 AltLd
with Dave Langmead
petemeads ??/1974 Lead
Martin Bennett 22/Jun/71 -
with Nick Kingsford
mikej 09/Apr/71 AltLd
with John Bickerdike
Gordon Stainforth 18/Aug/68 AltLd

Was VS then, of course, and felt OK at the grade. Things like Brant and Slape felt harder.

with John Stainforth
RichardMc 15/Apr/68 AltLd O/S
with R Gardiner
uphillnow 23/Aug/66 Lead

Seconded Chris Boulton on it previously. Climbed many times since

with John Sargeant
Seymore Butt ??/1965 AltLd
with Nev
eroica64 ??/1965 2nd dnf

Fell off pitch 2 and a protection peg came out.

with Bob Tait
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 24
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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