SMC Description
105m. An interesting climb taking the prominent large left-facing corner in the centre of the buttress. It is only recommended when the top corner is iced; this is visible from below.
Start below the corner and climb to a cave below an overhang. From the foot of the cave go diagonally left to a snow bay, exit this on the right and return on easy ground to below the main corner. Climb this to the top.
At the bottom, a more direct start can be taken when it is very icy (technical 5). © SMC

Ticklists: Winter 2018 Dreamlist.

bradleyrichards93 13/Mar AltLd O/S
the satori trail 13/Mar AltLd

Conner First pitch Bradley Second pitch Me final pitch 3rd pitch crux

Connorh 13/Mar AltLd

Led p1, tricky move to get to the insitu belay. p1 is pretty bold.

noskki 23/Feb AltLd

a bit lean... but enough ice to make protection awkward.

with mark
griffithpatrick 11/Feb 2nd O/S

3rd p

Hidden 07/Feb Solo O/S
andybroadway 13/Jan AltLd O/S

Bottom was covered pretty well frozen leaving little gear, while the top was pretty thin the the final corner. Good day though.

with Brian Whitworth
Michael Morrell 06/Mar/17 2nd dnf

Out of condition! Abseiled off, no gear for most off the first pitch...

Roberttaylor 13/Feb/17 Lead O/S

Block lead in three pitches. P1 wasn't too bad, P3 was thin...could have done with 2/3x as much ice! Slab sections were awkward too with powder on granite and not much neve.

pingora 03/Mar/16 2nd rpt
Robertgiddy 28/Feb/16 Lead

Climbed straight up out the cave via a free hanging icicle, the way we went probably being VI 6. If we'd followed the guide book grade would have been about right, some good ice on the route apart from one lean section.

andycash 14/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
with LucaC
LucaC 14/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

P2 & 4. Little ice on the top corner pitch made it hard for the grade.

jonnie3430 13/Feb/16 Lead O/S

With Miles, punchy corner on third pitch, felt V6 in current conditions and not great gear. Cracking route though, interesting ice to start, traverse was interesting, especially traverse left from the pegs and the corner was great, thin bridging and hooks in thin ice/snow...

Hidden 12/Feb/16 -
Hidden 31/Jan/16 TR O/S
Hidden ??/2016 -
joe king 01/Mar/15 AltLd dnf

Third pitch not in condition. A fine attempt by a Steve thwarted one move from the top!

with steve pettit
steveP 01/Mar/15 AltLd dnf

In retrospect, the clue was in the guidebook. The final corner is much harder when there is no ice. A complete scratchfest with very little gear. Farewell number ten nut - you held well.

Hidden 25/Feb/15 2nd dnf
Hidden 25/Feb/15 Lead dnf
geoff b 20/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Very thin, so better protected but technically harder.

with Dr. Nick
tim20 14/Feb/15 AltLd
bobpilgrem 14/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Lead 2 nd pitch-no snow field- v thin and run out. Tim lead 1and 3 -lean conditions and hard for grade ?

with tim20
Hidden 13/Feb/15 2nd
Nemo9 12/Feb/15 AltLd

Hard sustained climbing for grade I felt. Headed right from belay at top of second pitch then straight up towards two pegs. Possible a bit off route?

with Jim
danJBA 26/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1 & 3

with Kayan
Kayan 26/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
with danJBA
Spongebob ?/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
rockstott ?/Jan/15 AltLd
plain kitten ??/2015 -
stratandrew 29/Dec/14 Lead dnf

Led first pitch to cave. Very thin and hard. Colin tried p2 but no ice or neve and slabs too sketchy so we abbed off.

with Jim Symon, Colin Maddison
Clevelandclimber 26/Mar/14 AltLd
with Malcolm Bass
benclimbing 23/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
with Al Todd
mes32 11/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Great condition, went left and led through an exciting mixed overhang.

with Mick
elliptic 02/Mar/14 Solo
luckyjim 02/Mar/14 AltLd

Banked out so only grade 3 after the first wee icefall..

with D Helm
efetunc 01/Mar/14 AltLd dog

I fell on the first pitch traversing onto the ice pillar from the snow slope on the right; probably not the easiest way of climbing this route. The fall was arrested by one of the ice axes placed at the top of the pillar. The axe leash held.

with Rafal Malczyk
Rafal Malczyk 01/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Efe fell off leading 1st pitch but continued succesfully to the end

with Efe Tunc
KKilroy 01/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
with Lou
Hidden ?/Mar/14 2nd
theamerican ?/Mar/14 AltLd

I went to sling a horn, and almost pulled it out onto my belayer. About 30m above the vertical ice, on the climber's right.

Danny Crump 28/Feb/14 Lead O/S
with Stephen Beard
Ollie B 26/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

Direct as icey.

with S.Bennett
Hidden 25/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
JHiley 22/Feb/14 2nd

We went up the icy P1 of the Prodigal principal and finished up this. The normal first pitch seemed to be buried.

with MSchobitz, Darren
MSchobitz 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S

Started one rock bulge too far left. Perhaps a bit less steep. Really solid ice, but pretty badly run out due to our lack of ice gear. Lead P1 and P2 as 1 and belayed off an in situ sling for the top, not very interesting, pitch. Still quite banked out.

with USMC
magicmartin 22/Feb/14 2nd O/S

Really in condition. Plenty of ice and Snow. Loved it!!!

with Susie, Ryan
phil64 07/Feb/14 Lead O/S

super conditions

with keith Jones
kj001 07/Feb/14 2nd

Brilliant neve and great choice by Phil

with phil64
joe_lancs 25/Jan/14 Lead O/S
olekemi 25/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
with Mark G
Hidden 23/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
Andrew Sloan 18/Jan/14 AltLd dnf

Late start after driving up from Cheshire. Climb in good nick but heinous weather conditions. Ended up abseiling off at end of 2nd pitch

with Steve Grove
Andy Hewison 18/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Led 1, 2 (together on a 60m rope) and last pitch (snow slope), Drew lead pitch 3 (good exit right from the belay). Generally good conditions but lots of soft snow on the approach and on the traverse, in situ tat was useful. Managed to get a few screws in.

with Drew Connelly
Brucemacrosson 16/Jan/14 AltLd

plastered in thick neve & chewy ice. soft touch today.

with David Small
simon kimber 16/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
with Mike Thomas, The old James turnbull
The old James turnbull 16/Jan/14 AltLd
with simon kimber, mike
Piers Harley 15/Jan/14 AltLd
with Jeremy Windsor
stuart34 14/Jan/14 Lead O/S
with Gabi
wookie667 14/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

in good condition. in good weather

with Hay
Hidden 14/Jan/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Jan/14 AltLd
malteserEd 12/Jan/14 2nd
MadProfessor 12/Jan/14 Lead

More snow than ice overall. Crux was pitch 3 at grade 4, pitches one and three III-ish.

with Mr Scibberas
Hidden 12/Jan/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
Ken Applegate 12/Jan/14 Lead

Good conditions today.

with Donna & Phil
Phil_Hall_97 12/Jan/14 2nd
with ken Applegate, Donna Ryan
SuperMike64 12/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
planetmarshall 11/Jan/14 Lead

Good value, but top pitch was a bit of an anticlimax.

with Liam
JHiley 11/Jan/14 AltLd

Lead p1 (interesting ice which took 3 screws), 2nd p2 (precarious crux) and p3 (easy II snow!!?)

Ly-Cilph 11/Jan/14 AltLd O/S


with Joe H
morsy 11/Jan/14 AltLd

route in very easy condition today

with gerhard mors
graeme gatherer 11/Jan/14 -
morsg 11/Jan/14 AltLd
with morsy
Hidden 09/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Jan/14 AltLd
BallsOfSteel 08/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
Marti999 08/Jan/14 Lead O/S
abbeywall 05/Jan/14 AltLd

4 pitches. Led 1 and 2. Not much gear today but final ice corner very fat

with K, FM
Marek Raganowicz ?/Jan/14 AltLd
Hidden ??/2014 -
drew8connelly ??/2014 -
Hidden 29/Dec/13 2nd O/S
annep 06/Mar/13 AltLd
Hidden ??/2013 -
wheelsucker ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
tsl42 15/Dec/12 AltLd O/S

First and final pitch. Then topped out. Final pitch the best.

with Liam Brown, Andy mumc
Hidden 15/Dec/12 AltLd
simon_D 19/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

A great wee line..Ice, turf, mixed and a well protected crux. Ab into Alladins Couliour.

with Karen Mc
edmitchell 16/Dec/11 Lead O/S
with yashvi
yashvi 06/Dec/11 2nd
with Edwin Mitchell
Hidden 27/Feb/11 AltLd dnf
Hidden ?/Feb/11 AltLd
Kirill 29/Jan/11 AltLd

Led the traverse pitch.

with ig248
ig248 29/Jan/11 AltLd

Upper section would have been easier with some ice.

with Kirill
jhawton 28/Jan/11 AltLd dnf
with Tom Anderson, Griff87
Ian Jones 23/Jan/11 Lead O/S

The line avoids the main challenge but an excellent top pitch which I battered to pieces. Sorry.

with Tim Clarke
Hidden 23/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
geoff.comley 18/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Took first pitch, pretty thin traverse, crux pitch was really fun climbing. Definitely 5 with conditions as they were today.

Chris wilson 09/Jan/11 AltLd

Enjoyed this one interesting route with 4 good pitches. The top corner pitch had just enough ice to make it go, would have been very hard with less.

with Jon B
allyrocke 04/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

As a couple of medical students, this was a must!

rcammack 04/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
KeithW 02/Jan/11 Lead O/S

in 4 pitches, good ice lower down but thin higher up, only just enough.

with Paul Lucas
stef050 02/Jan/11 2nd dnf

only completed first two pitches, great intro to winter climbing

with graeme watson
lucasp 02/Jan/11 2nd O/S

Excellent route, good belays and not bad gear although the top pitch could of done with more ice.

with keith lmc
Alco-nomic ?/Jan/11 AltLd
with Geoff
PAJames ??/2011 -
David Sherratt ??/2011 Lead O/S
adie84 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 14/Nov/10 Lead
jacobfinn 16/Mar/10 2nd β

Very sketchy first pitch. Not in condition at all. Rest of climb excellent, especially the long pitch up the corner.

with John Jackson Falkirk Council, Badam
Badam 16/Mar/10 2nd O/S

First pitch was horrible, didn't go far enough left so had a horrible step up, 3rd pitch was right up the corner on good ice but was hard work, sore calfs, breathing out my arse and proper scared:((

with jacobfinn, John Jackson
French Erick 14/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

meant to go to the lum but total pea souper made it difficult to find Sneachda!!! Lines were taken so we took the first avalaible and locate-able option. Proved to be really serious today Dave's P1 weighed at VI, 5 in my books! Back to car for 12.45 though.

Captain Solo 07/Mar/10 AltLd

With Paul Knowles.

IceBun 07/Feb/10 AltLd

Saved the day after binning Lochan cos of too much snow. Very icy. Good wee route.

with Rossco
tallthinmonkey 04/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Russell Small
Rampikino 30/Jan/10 AltLd

In 5 pitches, though the 5th was a solo snow plod. Good route, quite testing.

The Bad Cough 30/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Traverse pitch and top corner pitch

MouseHunter ??/2010 -
liamo333 ??/2010 AltLd O/S

Poor route choice, thin ice, too much powder and a lot of digging for gear....

akhughes ??/2010 Solo O/S
Hidden 29/Dec/09 2nd
Hidden 29/Dec/09 Lead
andymoin 27/Dec/09 AltLd dnf

Abbed off after the second pitch due to scary climbing a running out of light.

with James Dunn
mulletcocktail2000 21/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
with mark and stuart
s kennedy 21/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
with ryan, mark mosgrove
Hidden 21/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
graeme gatherer ?/Dec/09 -
jazzyjackson 05/Mar/09 AltLd dnf

Silly route choice today. No ice and unconsolidated snow made this piss poor line insecure and far from fun. Bailed after 2.5 pitches of the crapest mixed climbing we have ever had the mispleasure off. Still beats the office though. Shoulder felt fine.

with JAMES K
ShaneHoubart ?/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
with Ale
Hidden 23/Mar/08 2nd
The old James turnbull ?/Mar/08 2nd

thin ice

with aiden
barney_edin 06/Feb/08 AltLd
with Christian L
Hidden ?/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
Greg Boswell 24/Jan/07 -
with peter bosewll (dad)
The Jazz Butcher ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
andyinglis 25/Mar/06 AltLd O/S
with neil adams
Hidden ?/Mar/06 2nd O/S
sea_lene ??/2006 Lead O/S
Neil Adams ??/2006 AltLd O/S
Smelly Fox 06/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with James
Jamie B ?/Feb/04 AltLd
with Kenny G
Hidden 01/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Les Ross ?/Feb/03 AltLd
with Andy Beavis
frost ?/Jan/03 AltLd
tompercy ?/Dec/02 -
with Deadpan Dan
Hidden 18/Feb/02 AltLd
Hidden 01/Feb/02 Lead
Hidden 14/Feb/01 AltLd
ruaridhmac 03/Feb/01 2nd
with Helen Rennard
charlesmfrench ?/Nov/00 AltLd O/S


with Mark Vandome
brockers ??/2000 -
with CarlZ
bandersnatch ?/Nov/98 Lead
with Mairi B
James Gordon ??/1996 -
Lone Rider ??/1996 AltLd
with Pete mayhew
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?/Feb/95 AltLd
with Matt Dickinson
Hidden ?/Feb/95 AltLd O/S
pingora 28/Jan/93 Solo
Hidden ??/1993 AltLd
TheAndyBarker ?/Jan/91 Lead
alkira 18/Dec/90 2nd
with james turner, bruce goodlad
Bruce Kerr 11/Jan/87 AltLd
with Paul Dunkley
Hidden ?/Dec/85 AltLd
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