UKC

No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs, Winter 2018 Dreamlist.


ClimberDateStyle
noskki 25/Feb AltLd
with AmyG
AmyG 25/Feb AltLd O/S

Late start, Colwyns birthday bash weekend. Awesome top pitch knackered by the top.

with noskki
Simon Allcock 12/Feb 2nd O/S

Great fun chimney - all thrutching techniques required. Lots of good gear once all the powder excavated

with Wilki
The Grist 11/Feb Lead O/S

Exciting route. Lots of gear in the crack and not too bad to place. My legs got more pumped than my arms.

with Andy Thomason
Hidden 08/Feb AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Feb -
Hidden 28/Jan AltLd O/S
Hugh Simons 21/Jan AltLd O/S

Great route, quality back and footing up the top chimney, very sustained with the hardest move right at the top! My first tech 7 lead, pretty chuffed. A good route choice today as it was pretty sheltered from the wind which got worse throughout the day. Fiacaill Buttress heavily rimed but the approach was okay, some deep snow and windslab but other areas of solid snow too.

John McKenna 21/Jan AltLd O/S

Led P1, partner led the excellent crux pitch

Hidden 14/Jan 2nd
davkeo 14/Jan Lead O/S

A good route choice on a wild & windy day. First pitch to beneath the chimney was harder than it looked. Main pitch was really cool with very thin feet to move right at the top. Heavily rimed. Wouldn't argue with grade VI,7.

with David Gainor
Misha 07/Jan AltLd O/S

Good fun as a short Sunday route. Stayed at the Beinn Eighe car park on Saturday night and then had a flat battery in the morning after leaving the side lights on. Got a jump start eventually, then 2 hours to drive over, so didn't start walking in till just after 11am. Good track fortunately and great weather. Did in three pitches. Mark led the rising traverse to the first ledge. I did the groove / narrow chimney to the second ledge (some tricky moves) and then led the wide chimney as a separate pitch. As often the case, it looked easier than it turned out to be! Good hooks and gear but all a bit weird and very 3D. Steep but with good back and footing and bridged rests. The moves at the top onto and up the right side wall looked committing but there were great hooks which compensated for the small footholds. Not sure there's any tech 7 on this but plenty of tech 6, so reckon worth VI even with the good gear and rests. Good conditions - snowy enough but not too much as semi neve / frozen turf on the ledges. Abbed off (50m ropes more than sufficient) and walked out pronto, getting back to the car park as it got dark just after 5pm. So a short 6 hour day (in contrast to the 15 hour day on Beinn Eighe on Saturday!) - would have been great with an earlier start. Home at 2.30am so not too bad.

Adam24B 03/Jan AltLd O/S

Amazing route and an absolute full body work out. Had to be really careful starting up pitch 2 as a fall at the start would land you on the belayer... first tech 7!

Dónal Murray 03/Jan AltLd O/S

Unbelievably enjoyable route in good nick and the walk in was a dream. Short and thuggy with a very interesting finish to exit the chimney.

with Adam24B
Robertgiddy 03/Jan Lead O/S

Had a mini epic at the top of p1. Usually I climb with contact lenses as glasses steam up, but forgot to put them in this morning. This was fine tho cos in good weather the specs stay clear.... until you enter a confined space (e.g. Chimney) where heavy breathing leaves you blinded! Wasn't able to access my pockets either to put them away because it was so tight. Then half blinded had an axe rip that hit me just above my eye which meant that I couldn't focus with that eye for about 30 mins. Topping out to the belay I could see almost nothing and was very releaved when I managed not to come off one of the easiest moves on the route!!! Rest of the climb went better, was close to coming off on the top of p2 but good gear so wasn't too fussed (how the last in stiu peg was placed I can't imagine, I couldn't even reach to clip it). The whole buttress is a bit buried ATM but this route escapes most of it cos it's so sheltered.

with TeddyC
Jamie Skelton 12/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
with Pete Chuthill
Roberttaylor 10/Dec/17 Lead dog

I led P1,2, Josh led easy ground to the escape ledge. Really good route. My left crampon came off just before the crux so I hung on the peg to reattach it. Gutted as it was going so well.

liamo333 08/Dec/17 -
Rob N 08/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
DaveThexton 23/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
with Sasha doyle, Joe salter
Hidden 24/Feb/17 AltLd
Hidden 24/Feb/17 AltLd
Andrew Sloan 07/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch. Thought the flake/slab was very hard and tenuous. 2nd pitch was fantastic. Harder than all the grade VI routes I have climbed. I think V,7 is an anomalous grade. Abseiled off. Pleasant benign conditions after the maelstrom yesterday.

with LucaC
LucaC 07/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

P2. Turf well frozen, but covered in lots of powder.

with Andy S
HimTiggins 14/Jan/17 2nd O/S
with Amanda, Alan
CharlieMack 05/Jan/17 AltLd dog

Managed all the way to the top peg, then pulled a muscle in my back!

with John allen
Dave Payne 19/Nov/16 2nd

Very good. Keeping the pack on does indeed help.

with Jeremy
Pina 18/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Really fun route in some beautiful blue bird conditions. Led pitch one which felt IV,5. Main pitch was great fun, long torsos probably help...

Brian Pollock 18/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch. Excellent short route with interesting climbing and overhead gear where you need it.

with Pina
John sealey 27/Feb/16 Lead
masa-alpin 28/Jan/16 2nd β

Very windy day (100mph gust recorded reportedly). Obu lead both the pitches with a fine effort, taking 6 hours ish (during the BMC Intl Winter Meet). Great little route! Abed back down.

with R Obu
HarryNewmark 16/Jan/16 2nd
with Craig Holden, Alex Toomey
alex toomey 16/Jan/16 2nd O/S
Craig Holden 16/Jan/16 Lead O/S
with Alex Toomey, Harry Newmark
Hidden 10/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
D.Russell 10/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
Teappleby 13/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

I led pitch 1, which was probably good IV 5, in its own right. Really nice corner climbing that just keeps on giving. Then Micki led he crux. An amazing lead, but I will admit to spending the first half of the pitch terrified he was going to come off and swing into me crampon first! The final moves were fun to second as they were thin smearing and fully committed to a stein pull and moving round it to the final good hook. All facing a huge swing out beyond the belay! Full body shakes at the top. Amazing route!

MSchobitz 13/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

Been keen to get back on this, ever since having bailed after P1 last season due to horrible weather. Tom solidly led P1, and I then led the crux chimney. The 'inch by inch struggle' was real. Never been so exhausted from 12 meters of climbing. Fully body pump. Worked my way all the way up into the roof and then traversed out right to the belay on some steinpulls. I would say Tom did well on second, but he got my purple cam stuck, so I he really didn't ;) Also nice to see my ab-tat from last year still in place!

Hidden 21/Nov/15 -
1202alarm 27/Feb/15 2nd O/S

Stonking lead by Jamie. Full body pump in the chimney...

MSchobitz 22/Feb/15 AltLd dnf

I led up to the real chimney. Felt about IV 4/5. Feeling like we were being shat on by a snowman did not help the low psyche levels. Abbed-off from that belay and got blown out of the coire.

with Mike Watson
danJBA 27/Jan/15 2nd O/S
with Kayan
Kayan 27/Jan/15 Lead O/S

Strenuous with the outrageous bridging, great fun for a quick route.

with danJBA
jamieevans ?/Jan/15 Lead
plain kitten ??/2015 -
Debbie Lee 23/Mar/14 AltLd

Backed off.

with MrRiley
MrRiley 23/Mar/14 AltLd dnf

Climbed to the start of the hard climbing in some of the worst spindrift conditions I've ever been in. Retreated from there, never been colder!

with Richard Hines, Debbie Lee
Shaw Brown 27/Feb/14 AltLd

Great fun :-)

with loz01
ladislav 22/Feb/14 2nd dog

My first grade V!

Harry Holmes 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S

Buried!

with Miles Gould, Alex McMillan
alexmcmillan 22/Feb/14 2nd O/S
with Miles Gould, Harry Holmes
tjmillen 18/Jan/14 2nd
with Charlie
Charlie Zephyr Booth 18/Jan/14 Lead O/S
with tim millen
simon kimber 17/Jan/14 2nd
The old James turnbull 17/Jan/14 Lead O/S
with simon kimber
R0bbie 04/Jan/14 Lead dog

I took a wee fall from the crux, but after a rest managed to pull through. Felt pretty desperate!

with Taba
Hidden ??/2014 -
GaryK 06/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

An excellent route. The initial pitch was harder than expected, maybe it banks out more later in the season.

with Stuart Inchley
stuart34 06/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

gooood fun

with GaryK
annep 31/Mar/13 2nd

Best day climbing ever! With Harry.

jonnie3430 01/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Jacob did the second (spicy,) I did the first. A great route, interesting bottom to top.

with Jacob
Hidden ?/Feb/13 AltLd
Adam Booth 26/Jan/13 Lead O/S

Amazing route! Stiff for a V, I thought (way harder than savage slit for instance) and sustained. I agree with tech 7. Covered in unconsolidated powder, suppose it might have been easier with a bit of neve.

with gowla
gowla 26/Jan/13 2nd
with adam booth
Hidden 23/Jan/13 AltLd
tim newton 15/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
with Edvin m
Hidden 15/Jan/13 AltLd
Brucemacrosson ?/Jan/13 2nd
with Gwylim Satchell
mshorter 16/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
with ry
Hidden 02/Dec/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 04/Nov/12 -
Clevelandclimber 04/Nov/12 2nd

Bloody hard! Malcom led, crux move right at the top, ridiculous back and footing and stein pull move.

Hidden 03/Nov/12 AltLd
Hidden 03/Nov/12 AltLd
Malcolm Bass ?/Nov/12 AltLd dog

Fell off the crux this time.

with Guy Buckingham, Adrian Mellor
Hidden ?/Mar/12 AltLd
Tdavy01 18/Feb/12 Lead
James Smith 22/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

led the crux pitch, my first at tech 7! really fun climbing, perfect climb to practise your steinpulls!

with sam
Hidden 21/Jan/12 2nd
Tom Livingstone 01/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Crux pitch

with TRip
Ri ??/2012 -
Hidden 10/Dec/11 Lead
James Thacker 30/Nov/11 Lead
el cholo 20/Mar/11 AltLd
jamestheyip 20/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Looks very dry from the bottom but there are enough good neve for ledges and the snow channel on second pitch. The guide book's description on the chimney bridging - struggle inch by inch - is very true! Best stretch the first pitch a bit further and climb beyond the first flake, leaving more gear for the chimney pitch and you can also enjoy watching your partner suffering at the awkward bridging!

with Alejandro Garcia
robertmichaellovell 28/Feb/11 AltLd
with Dom
davesykes 30/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Guided party in front struggled somewhat and belayer had to be relieved on stance. Stan cruised crux.

with Stan
geoff.comley 26/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

well well well! Thin first couple of moves getting established on the wall, reasonable into the main groove. Found it tricky getting from the back and foot position onto the slab (might of went to high?). Hard 7 imo.

Alco-nomic 26/Jan/11 AltLd

From chimney corner, gain the slab from below the peg on it, a couple of tricky steps right of it and then straight up. Can be done in one 50m pitch.

with Geoff
jamestheyip 08/Jan/11 AltLd dnf

Started a few meters on the second chimney pitch. All cracks fully rimed up making gear finding very difficult. Downclimbed and bailed off.

with Ben Taylor
inuklm 07/Jan/11 AltLd dog
with Robin Jones
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 2nd
Hidden 17/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
Greg Boswell 10/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
with Damien
chapmand 15/Dec/08 AltLd
with Dave Morse, Peter Rhodes
david morse 13/Dec/08 AltLd
with Bombsquad
Peter Rhodes 13/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

WOW!

with Dave Chapman, Dave Morse
Hidden ?/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Chad123 09/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

Awesome route - crazy chimneying leads to a satisfying thin slab move to finish...

with sgl
sgl 09/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with chad
hwackerhage 09/Mar/08 Lead
with Adam
frecro 05/Mar/08 2nd
with alex moran
breithorn4164 06/Jan/08 AltLd dnf

Completed 1st pitch in terrible conditions, unconsolidated snow abbed off

with Jackson
French Erick 03/Jan/08 AltLd O/S

great route for wild days, although spin drifts can be perpetual (on a bad day!)

with Andy Sharpe
Neil Adams 06/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
andyinglis 06/Mar/07 2nd

Lowered off from crux, then Neil dispatched it. Must remember to eat and drink....

with neil adams
phil64 ??/2007 Lead
akhughes ?/Nov/05 AltLd O/S
nickdonohue ?/Mar/05 Lead

Happy hooking! Meaning to take a rest day on the International meet (after many days climbing) but couldn't resist getting out again!

whispering nic 20/Jan/05 AltLd O/S
with Tweedley
charlesmfrench 12/Dec/02 Lead O/S
with Emily Hol
Yourlead 16/Feb/02 2nd
with Graham Penny
Dave Kerr 03/Feb/02 AltLd
with Steve Wells
Ally Smith ??/2002 Lead dog

Date a guess; sometime between 2002 & 2006. Took a whipper on the chimney pitch and had sparks flying from crampon points. 1pt aid to pass this section. Need to go back and do it clean

with Rich Abell
frost ?/Jan/01 Lead
with J Hubbard
Malcolm Bass ?/Nov/00 AltLd O/S

After camping by Loch Avon and doing Crevasse Route and Sticil face many years ago. The given year is a guess.

with Simon Yearsley
Dave Almond ?/Mar/00 Lead O/S
with Mark Thomas
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
James Gordon ??/2000 -
pingora 18/Mar/96 AltLd O/S
with Shaun R
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd
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Voting
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 41
High 8
Mid 8
Low 8
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 40
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set