An engrossing eliminate, staging the hardest climbing on the crag. The gear is not unreasonable. Start midway between the E1 5a crack right of the recess on the left and Coco de Mer. Pull up to a finger-ledge. With small-wire protection in the thin crack just left, work up the slab past a mono, trending right on larger holds but with less gear to a peg. Climb to the second of two quartz bands; then step left to the exit of the E1 5a crack. (E4+, whatever that is!)
Martin Crocker (unseconded) 28/May/2006
Ticklists: Culm Coast new routes.