700m, 11 pitches.
Approach: Approach along east branch of Dzhirnagaktu glacier, aiming 300m left of the triangular buttress between Uighur and Point 5102. 1h30.
Route: The line takes the first prominent right-to left couloir on the left hand side of the West-North-West face. Climb snow slopes just right of the large main broken buttress, rising to around 50º (300m). Icy sections lead to a small rock buttress in the middle of the start of the couloir proper (crux). This can be turned on the left through thick snow or climbed direct (short section of Scottish 4, ice, 15m). The couloir continues to the ridge (further 400m) at approximately 65-70º - keep close to the rocks on the left-hand side to avoid rockfall. The ridge is gained by a short chimney, coming out on the North-West corner of the ridge (pt 5065m). On the first ascent the route was climbed in 11 pitches. (7 hours).
Descent: Descend down the line of the route by a series of Abalakovs (approximately 8 required with 60m abseils). Take care with rotten ice. The first abseil may be taken from a large block atop the ridge. It is possible to walk back down to the glacier form the lower slopes. Allow 4 - 5 hours.
Route: The line takes the first prominent right-to left couloir on the left hand side of the West-North-West face. Climb snow slopes just right of the large main broken buttress, rising to around 50º (300m). Icy sections lead to a small rock buttress in the middle of the start of the couloir proper (crux). This can be turned on the left through thick snow or climbed direct (short section of Scottish 4, ice, 15m). The couloir continues to the ridge (further 400m) at approximately 65-70º - keep close to the rocks on the left-hand side to avoid rockfall. The ridge is gained by a short chimney, coming out on the North-West corner of the ridge (pt 5065m). On the first ascent the route was climbed in 11 pitches. (7 hours).
Descent: Descend down the line of the route by a series of Abalakovs (approximately 8 required with 60m abseils). Take care with rotten ice. The first abseil may be taken from a large block atop the ridge. It is possible to walk back down to the glacier form the lower slopes. Allow 4 - 5 hours.
Conor Gilmour and R?n?n Kernan 20/Aug/2012.
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Route of Interest
Pik 4780 Central Couloir
Grade: D ***
(Sarychat)