Rockfax Description
An amazing route that is quite bold. The first two pitches are around HVS then easier but bold above. The start of the route is hard to locate and is a little vegetated before you get onto the rock properly.
1) 5c, 30m. Climb easily on jugs and holes to a black streak. As the climbing gets harder higher up 4 bolts mark the way.
2) 5c, 30m. Start heading up and right, avoiding the grassy platforms, aiming for the right end of a large grassy ledge after 15m. Go straight up towards a depression/ledge past 3 bolts.
3) 4c, 30m. One of the best pitches. Head up a vertical black streak passing a peg. After this the wall eases a little and there are many ways to ascend. A bolt, threads and a peg help guide the way, but it is worth backing up the old threads.
4) 5b, 40m. Pass a small roof on jugs - boIt. Trend right towards the next belay - easy climbing but difficult gear.
5) 5b, 55m. Go diagonally up right aiming for a corner/groove. Climb this and a short slab above to the belay.
6) 4a, 45m. Climb slightly a vegetated section to the left of another corner/groove. Easy climbing but sustained, bold and exposed.
7) 4a, 50m. More bold and exposed climbing. Climb up past a corner to the left of the route. Head left towards a gap where the climbing route ends.
Descent - Abseil down the route on 2 x 50m ropes. © Rockfax
Andr?s Villar, F?lix Herrero & Javier L?pez 13/Mar/1985.
100 Spanish multi-pitch classics
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Grade: 5c ***
(Naranjo de Bulnes)