Route: Follow descend from the col a few meters to pass under a small cornice and by loose, easy rock gain a steepening snow slope (up to 50º) which continues for around 80m. Continue via rightwards rising traverse through mixed ground (Sc II) to a small shoulder (30m). Overcome a short rock step on the Kyrgyz side (III) followed by a 60º chimney (30m). From here follow a snow crest and mixed slope under the crest of the ridge to just under a snowy shoulder. Traverse onto the north face on snow and mixed (around 60m of II/III) until a snow/ice chimney leading to final rise of the ridge is attained. Climb this (30m III/IV) till mixed ground on the ridge is reached. Climb the ridge (~V.Diff) until the north west end of the summit snow crest is reached. It is a further 150m to the summit from the end of technical difficulties. 5 hours on first ascent.

Variant: Upon reaching the snowy shoulder, parties that relish poor rock may avoid the traverse by following the crest of the ridge to the very summit which includes an amusing chimney to surmount a gendarme. This means that III/IV is substituted for chossy HS.

Descent: A serious series of 5 awkward abseils down the ridge, a traverse and a down-climb. Fast parties may be able to abseil the north face. 250m. Leave at least 3 hours for the descent.

Bradley Morrell, Vladimir Zholobenko, Alek Zholobenko, Azwan Isa 20/Aug/2012.

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