Rockfax Description
III, 350m. An excellent route with some technical but never desperate climbing, provided there is plenty of ice.
Approach - Approach on skis - coming from either the Aiguille du Midi or the Helbronner takes the same time. From either direction, ski to the foot of the Pointe Adolphe Rey and skin up the glacial bowl separating it from the Pyramide du Tacul. The routes are on the left, 400m up this. Much of the skin up is threatened by a serac above and right of the routes, so move as quickly as possible. It is also possible to approach the routes from above by climbing the snow gully to the right of the Grand Capucin and then scrambling up to the col between the Roi de Siam and the Petit Capucin. This avoids the serac danger but is longer.
1) 2, 55m. Cross the bergschrund and climb 55 degree snow/ice to a belay on the right.
2) 3, 45m. Climb the gully on 60 degree ice to a bolted belay on the left.
3) 3+, 45m. Follow the fun ice runnel to a belay on the right.
4) 2, 50m. Easier snow and ice leads to two belays on the left, the higher of which is marginally better.
5) 3+, 50m. Continue up more easy ground and stay left to reach a bolted belay on the left amongst blocks.
6) 4+, 50m. Climb 70 degree ice/mixed ground to a steep step. Surmount this delicately (the difficulty will vary greatly depending on the quantity and quality of ice) and continue to a bolted belay on the left below a final icy section.
7) 4, 50m. Finish off the last of the ice and follow easier snowy ground to a col between the Roi de Siam and the Petit Capucin.
Descent - Abseil on fixed anchors. The belays on the Chippendale Gully are bolted so if the route is empty, the lower half of it provides the best and safest descent provided you have 2 x 60m ropes. © Rockfax

Kirill 27/Mar/16 AltLd
mike.moss 27/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
niallsash 19/Jan/15 -
edek_w 17/Apr/13 -

In good conditions - easy climb.

with Blondas
David Horwood 19/Apr/10 -
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