Rockfax Description
III, 350m. An excellent route with some technical but néver desperate climbing, provided there is plenty of ice.
1) 2, 55m. Cross the bergschrund and climb 55 degree snow/ice to a belay on the right.
2) 3, 45m. Climb the gully on 60 degree ice to a bolted belay on the left.
3) 3+, 45m. Follow the fun ice runnel to a belay on the right.
4) 2, 50m. Easier snow and ice leads to two belays on the left, the higher of which is marginally better.
5) 3+, 50m. Continue up more easy ground and stay left to reach a bolted belay on the left amongst blocks.
6) 4+, 50m. Climb 70 degree ice/mixed ground to a steep step. Surmount this delicately (the difficulty will vary greatly depending on the quantity and quality of ice) and continue to a bolted belay on the left below a final icy section.
7) 4, 50m. Finish off the last of the ice and follow easier snowy ground to a col between the Roi de Siam and the Petit Capucin. © Rockfax
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Grade: TD- 5c ***
(Aiguille d'Argentiere)