Start up the crumbly slab on the far right side of the big cave, follow good slots to fig 4's and some blind hooks, the grade is a guess, easy to redpoint but desperate to onsight!

Simon Chevis 02/Oct/2012


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 08/Oct Lead RP
Misha 08/Oct Lead

Three times while working the extension project. On the extension, first go bolt to bolt to mark the slots and replace some kit. Second go had two rests on the traverse. Third go had a rest at the start of the traverse to cut down some old tat and was tired anyway, then managed to finish in one and it felt ok. So basically if I can recover on the poor rest at the top of SB, it should be doable. Probably M10+ as there are no hard moves like on MG but it's a pumpfest. On the last go, improved the beta part the small flattie - L axe on flattie, R foot heel hook, then instead of matching the axe, cross through with R axe into the lower slot, skip L axe into the small upper slot and go into a 4 on it.

with Eszter
Misha 10/Sep Lead rpt

First hard route of the season after a warm up on Heavens Above. The moves were ok but wasn't as smooth as I'd like to be. Not bad to kick things off though. Definitely 9+ and not 9.

with Eszter
climber34neil 26/Aug Lead dog

Fell at the top, last slot is hard to find!

climber34neil 24/Jul Lead dnf

After doing SR, lead to groove in roof

MSchobitz 26/Feb Lead dnf
Andrew Wilson 21/Jan Lead RP
with Misha
Misha 21/Jan Lead rpt

Felt ok, despite two goes on SG earlier in the day. Continued along the project to traverse to the MG lower off. Did it bolt to bolt to figure out the moves and due to horrendous drag - need to extend a few draws on SB. Hard to tell how pumpy it will be but I guess in the 10+ to 11 range. Decent rest at the top of SB as well.

with Andy W
MSchobitz 12/Nov/16 Lead dnf
MSchobitz 30/Oct/16 Lead dnf
Adam Willison 02/Apr/16 Lead
Hidden 02/Apr/16 Lead O/S
climber34neil 13/Jan/16 TR dnf

Worked section from floor to groove over roof 4 bolts, coming together nicely

patsaunders ?/Jan/16 TR dnf
with Neil
Misha 30/Dec/15 Lead rpt

A bit brutal as a warm up! Struggled a bit on the lip of the overhang as the axe placement in the groove forces the axe handle against the side of the groove so it's hard to swap hands. Didn't see / couldn't get to the higher placement in the groove, which is better. M9+ as the moves are hard.

with Phil
climber34neil 08/Dec/15 Lead dog

It's steeper than I thought!

philhilo 08/Dec/15 Lead dog

Neil took the first three bolts, I dogged and stick clipped it to the top. Better than the last time 3 years ago. Couldn't do the first moves 2nd time round, kinda pumpy.

harry_lewis 14/Nov/15 Lead dog

moves felt alright if a bit scary as my first dry tooling lead, might go next time

with Dave Robinette, Ben Kelsey, Alex McCann
benkelsey 14/Nov/15 TR dnf

Powerful giving a deep pump

simonward 22/Apr/15 Lead RP

got this 3rd do. took me 3 goes to find all the holds. really good route

Hidden 11/Jan/15 Lead dnf
Misha 14/Dec/14 Lead RP

At last! Got it first go. Having all the moves fresh in my mind after two goes the day before helped, as did having the new Scarpa fruit boots! Still pretty hard though...

with Eszter
Misha 13/Dec/14 Lead dog

Two goes. Had a rest on the lip on the first go. Close! Second go borrowed Ramon's La Sportiva fruit books. Pulled into the groove above the overhang, was sorting feet out with both hands on the top axe when I dislodged the bottom axe - should have shouldered it earlier! So close, reckon I might have finished it...

with Ramon
Misha 06/Dec/14 Lead dog

Three goes on this. First go got to the roof fine, powerful moves but found them much easier than what I remember from my last attempt about a year ago. Clipping from a fig 4/9 at the lip of the roof is tough, then the crux! Got into the groove, went for what looked like a flattie on the arĂȘte but it was sloping so got spat off into space and out of reach of the rope so couldn't pull back up. Left an axe behind, Ramon kicked it out when he went up next. Second go got to the top (for the first time) with rests. Third go a bit tired so again had to rest. Need to get efficient at clipping that bolt on the lip!

with Viki, Ramon
Harry Holmes 05/Jan/14 Lead RP

2nd attempt

with Andy Turner
Misha 29/Dec/13 Lead dnf

Once again couldn't get past or even clip the 4th bolt (or is it the 5th - the one over the roof). This time found and reached a slot in the bottom of the right facing groove to the left of the 4th bolt but couldn't clip from that (even though I could reach the quickdraw - it's too overhanging and I'm too weak to take an arm off!) and couldn't see the next slot. Need to go up there with a sling to clip into the bolt to have a proper look for that elusive slot! Got to the high point easier than last time but still had to dog it. Can't see this being 'M8 tops'!!!

with Ian W
Ramon Marin 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Onsighted this, good route. M8 tops

with viki harvey
Dan Lane 27/Dec/12 TR dog

Managed all the moves but not even close to linking them, think I need to get stronger!

with Andy Turner, Simon Chevis
Misha 03/Nov/12 Lead dnf

Clip to clipped it with great difficulty to the fourth bolt but unable to get past the roof to the next drilled placement. One to go back to!

with Phil
philhilo 03/Nov/12 Lead dnf

'Hard to onsite - easy to redpoint' - so said the 1st ascencionist? So it will be easier next time - mebee, mebee not. Great fun dogging up to the 4th clip, can I go lie down now?P.s crumbly slab to start was like unconsolidated snow - any sport climbers interested?

with misha
maybe_si 02/Oct/12 Lead RP

First ascent

cymjt ??/2012 -
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Voting
High M9+
Mid M9+
Low M9+
High M9
Mid M9
Low M9
High M8+
Mid M8+
Low M8+
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 2
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
Onsighted
Not Set