250m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 185m. An excellent, mid-grade day out in some wonderful alpine scenery.
Approach - Walk northeast behind the Refuge d'Argentière, across moraines and scree, to the foot of the crag. Approach time is given from the hut, not the Grands Montets lift station.There is an extra 5m at the foot of the first pitch which is not visible on this
1) 5b, 20m. Follow the crack and exit it via a tricky move right and continue to a ledge.
2) 5a, 20m. Move up a couple of metres then make a 5m traverse left to climb a crack on the ridge crest which leads to a ledge under a roof.
3) 4c, 45m. Go straight up and pass rightwards around a small overhang. Continue up a short corner and climb easy, slabby ground to a large ledge on the ridge crest.
4) 3c, 40m. Easy ground on the ridge crest leads to another good ledge.
5) 3c, 20m. More easy ground. Pitches 4 and 5 could be linked by a competent team moving together for a few metres.
6) 5a, 25m. Climb the superb crack straight above the belay, passing a couple of pegs on the way.
7) 4c, 15m. Step right and climb the small rocky pinnacle. Step down off it and then re-climb to the summit of the Génépi.
Descent - Abseil down Mort de Rire. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The classic of the sector, pleasing and varied, on a high mountain cliff with just a few pegs but easy to protect. The first two pitches are reasonably sustained at 5a/b. The last two pitches are more impressive than difficult, with a airy « râteau de chèvre”, (flake of rock used for the hands with the feet in opposition.)
Approach15 min
From the hut follow the water pipe. Do not go towards the moraine but climb up amongst the boulders, keeping to the left at the end, to reach to foot of the face (to the E of the Aiguille du Refuge).
Start at a crack on the left of the face , directly beneath a little overhang.
Route
P1 40m 5a crack, 1 move of 5b to get past the corner (to the right), belay on a ledge
P2 40m 4c traverse 5 à 6m to the left then climb a crack, 5a, belay on a terrace under a roof
P3 40m 4c, Go 2 m to the right then straight up, (passing to the right of the overhang), belay on a ledge
P4 >50m 3, easy steps, belay on a ledge behind a large boulder ; junction with the route "Un éclat de rire"
P5 50m 5a the obvious crack, airy, possible belay at mid height (2 pegs), otherwise bolt belay on a ledge
P6 20m 4a Hand traverse the flake (« râteau de chèvre”), get behind it and descend to a ledge and belay
Descent30 min
• Abseil 25m on the N side to a gap, then by the ledges on the side facing the Améthystes to regain the foot of the face.
• Escape possible from the 6th belay by 2 abseils down the E face, then ledges. This brings you down, 10m to the right of the start.

Ticklists

Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+)

Feedback

UserDateNotes
fuzzysheep01 17 Aug Show βeta
βeta: You can do two 60m abs from the col between the two top pinnacles. You could go from the top of the second pinnacle, but the only way off is via a worn sling and maillon - I downclimbed back to the better ab point.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: You can do two 60m abs from the col between the two top pinnacles. You could go from the top of the second pinnacle, but the only way off is via a worn sling and maillon - I downclimbed back to the better ab point.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
eduardo 17 Aug AltLd
fuzzysheep01 16 Aug AltLd O/S Surprisingly good - 4 very good pitches, with a cool top on knife edge aretes.
with eduardo
Surprisingly good - 4 very good pitches, with a cool top on knife edge aretes.
with eduardo
bogpetre 21 Jul AltLd O/S Yanked on piton on p1 to overcome wetness. With EL
Yanked on piton on p1 to overcome wetness. With EL
Colin Scotchford 20 Jul AltLd
karol_murray 16 Jul Lead O/S First pitch is 5c in another book. lead first 2 pitches but had to abandon on 3rd pitch - needed to get form for the cable car
with Liam Fahey
First pitch is 5c in another book. lead first 2 pitches but had to abandon on 3rd pitch - needed to get form for the cable car
with Liam Fahey
Cbulman 27 Jun AltLd O/S
Roberttaylor 27 Jun AltLd O/S
Robbie Blease 27 Jun -
steve_gibbs 27 Jun AltLd O/S
with Chris Bulman
with Chris Bulman
Jared Goldberg 15 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 15 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 15 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 15 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 15 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 15 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 15 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 15 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 15 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 15 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 15 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 15 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jared Goldberg 15 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29 Jul, 2018 Lead
Tony Myers 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
watson.b 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Adamski1986 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
08nbrierley 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with tony
with tony
JagoNeath 18 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Hidden ?Aug, 2017 AltLd
Maz J 17 Jul, 2017 AltLd led pitches 1 and 3. Missed off final 4c pitch as we climbed this the previous day.
with Simon Jones
led pitches 1 and 3. Missed off final 4c pitch as we climbed this the previous day.
with Simon Jones
Naomi.P 11 Jul, 2017 AltLd We tried... kind of. Was very wet so after Leo tried a couple of times we walked round to the top and congratulated ourselves.
We tried... kind of. Was very wet so after Leo tried a couple of times we walked round to the top and congratulated ourselves.
leopolian 11 Jul, 2017 AltLd dnf
with Naomi.P
with Naomi.P
Rob N 4 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
C@rwyn 24 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Dee, Joss
with Dee, Joss
Hidden 7 Sep, 2016 AltLd
AnnaBacklund ?Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
CatMc ?Aug, 2014 2nd
with clams
with clams
clams ?Aug, 2014 Lead VS 4c. P6, the long pitch up the arete, is a beauty! Did 50m ab after P7, thus missing out last pitch and summit block
with CatMc
VS 4c. P6, the long pitch up the arete, is a beauty! Did 50m ab after P7, thus missing out last pitch and summit block
with CatMc
nmcgreen 2 May, 2014 AltLd
with kdo
with kdo
Hidden 2 May, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 16 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
stanleynkk ?Jul, 2013 AltLd dnf A nice route with a 5 min approach from the hut.Great choice for a rest day in the hut. Actually did my first outdoor trad lead on the second pitch.
with Matthew Cripsey, Cindy Xiangyu Zhang, Oliver Alderman, Danny Barden
A nice route with a 5 min approach from the hut.Great choice for a rest day in the hut. Actually did my first outdoor trad lead on the second pitch.
with Matthew Cripsey, Cindy Xiangyu Zhang, Oliver Alderman, Danny Barden
danny269 ?Jul, 2013 AltLd Alt lead (I led first pitch) - Abd off from top of P4 due to long walk back down to lift
with Cindy, Oli, Stan, Cripsey
Alt lead (I led first pitch) - Abd off from top of P4 due to long walk back down to lift
with Cindy, Oli, Stan, Cripsey
Alan Scowcroft 5 Sep, 1991 AltLd O/S
with Graeme Ettle
with Graeme Ettle
Pete Pozman 28 Jul, 1986 AltLd O/S
with John Byrne
with John Byrne
10 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set