Descend to the promontory adjacent Red Stack Rock (the small island a few a few hundred yards West of Touch the Devil). Scramble down the promontory above the zawn, from where a large black wall is seen. To the right of this is an obvious fin/arete, taken by the following route:
Approach: is easiest by abbing straight in (either blindfolded or to the side of the route to preserve the onsight!).

A very fine line which is serious. 80ft Belay beneath and to the left (facing in) of the the arete. Traverse right for a few feet and up to gain a small ledge on the right. Place gear in the crack on the right then move left to arete. Blast boldly up this direct, using holds on both sides until a good hold is gained after a 15 feet (Crucial gear: Poor Rock 5 down and left - you've already climbed passed it but it's easier to place from the good hold. There is also a reasonable RP 5 to the right). Finish pretty much direct up the arete above to gain the slopey ledge above and the end of difficulties. A groove above leads to a step right at the top and belays on the ledge above. FA Dave Henderson 18 July 2002 (abseil/shunt inspection)

Dave Henderson (abseil/shunt inspection) 18/Jul/2002


Atlantic Coast New Routes


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