2 pitches.
A serious and commiting route giving both strenuous and bold climbing with w peppering of loose rock.
1:Start under the left side of the large roof in the center of the crag, climb up and right on steep rock to reach the roof (Rusting old peg & nut placement further right) now cut loose (rusty peg) and wildly hand traverse right wards on the rising diagonal handrail until beneath the black streak, pull up steeply(1 rest point)to gain the belay at the base of the slab(alternativly continue the traverse into the small niche and pull up from there)
2:Follow the black streak up the slab to reach the steep wall right of the hanging arete, pull onto the wall and move diagonally leftwards on pockets to gain a small ledge on the arete, climb the arete to the top with care.
1:Start under the left side of the large roof in the center of the crag, climb up and right on steep rock to reach the roof (Rusting old peg & nut placement further right) now cut loose (rusty peg) and wildly hand traverse right wards on the rising diagonal handrail until beneath the black streak, pull up steeply(1 rest point)to gain the belay at the base of the slab(alternativly continue the traverse into the small niche and pull up from there)
2:Follow the black streak up the slab to reach the steep wall right of the hanging arete, pull onto the wall and move diagonally leftwards on pockets to gain a small ledge on the arete, climb the arete to the top with care.
Stu Bradbury & Nick Dill 16/Aug/2012.
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Route of Interest
Farewell to Stone
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Zawn Kellys Area)