Hong Kong Rock Description
70m. This is a very enjoyable excursion up the edge of the wall. Start below the dark brown streak as for Unnamed 3.
1) 5a - 10m - 5 Bolts. Climb Unnamed 3 to the ledge then ‘walk' right wards along the narrow ledge to a bolt belay (the same entry pitch for Jaqattack).
2) 5a - 10m - 8 Bolts. Climb the wall directly above the belay (as for Jaqattack) with difficult moves to pass a bulge. Traverse right, passing beneath a detached block with care, to a bolt belay below an overlap.
3) 4a - 15m - 10 Bolts. Move up to the overlap and make technical moves to gain better holds and a ledge (the same for Keep the Faith). Step right and mantle onto a small ledge in a groove then follow a line of bolts that trend up and right across the slab to a ledge and bolt belay on the right.
4) 6b - 23m - 12 Bolts. Climb the wall with interest to the roof. Pull over and sprint up a groove in the face to a superb position on the arete. Final moves gain a ledge with bolt belay.
5) 6a - 12m - 7 Bolts. Clip a high bolt and make tenuous moves off the ledge to become established on the slab. Avoid the cop out to the left and instead delicately traverse right to the third bolt then gain better holds and pad away to the top. © Hong Kong Rock
UKC Logbook Description
P1 F5
P2 F5
P3 F4
P4 F6b
P5 F6a
Martin Lancaster 2002. The ground-up start and linking pitch was climbed by Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 16.12.18
Martin Lancaster 2002. The ground-up start and linking pitch was climbed by Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 16.12.18 2012.
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Grade: 6b ***
(River Crag)