UKC

22m. On the far right is a tall 'tower' shaped buttress. Possibly the best route at the crag - it follows the vague, shallow groove running up the centre of the buttress. The climbing is sustained and often blind but there are plenty of small wire placements and also a peg to bolster confidence on the crux. Climb the groove (mainly on it's left side) to where it blanks out. Clip the peg and move onto the right wall to gain good jugs, attaining a standing position on these (and a good rest). Move back left into the groove above the peg and continue with further interest, taking care with loose blocks near the top.

M Davies, P Robertson 06/Apr/2012.

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Vertical Gardener 27 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Peg looking rusty but still intact. Bailed off as could not complete the crux. Loose rocks on the lower half of the route, be careful what you stand on.
Show beta
βeta: Peg looking rusty but still intact. Bailed off as could not complete the crux. Loose rocks on the lower half of the route, be careful what you stand on.

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Route of Interest
Brainbiter

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

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